Monsta Posted January 5, 2007 #1 Posted January 5, 2007 Both pulled and tongue weight limits. What're the limits? I've read that the RSV's warranty won't be void if a trailer is pulled and that it is the only MC that can pull one without voiding the warranty. Is that correct? If so, why doesn't the manual say anything about trailering?
juggler Posted January 5, 2007 #2 Posted January 5, 2007 It pulls my heavy A** just fine. I suppose that's not the answer you wanted.
dray Posted January 5, 2007 #3 Posted January 5, 2007 devide the wifes weight by half this would be a good starting point:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: its a good thing she dont read these post:whistling:
RPG Posted January 5, 2007 #4 Posted January 5, 2007 I might be more concerned with the ability to stop than the ability to pull. I'm sure it'll pull more than it can safely stop with. Just a thought.
BradT Posted January 5, 2007 #5 Posted January 5, 2007 It pulls my heavy A** just fine. I suppose that's not the answer you wanted. I thought the same idea not necessarily you but the same idea. I pulled my piggy back which is about 180 lbs and I bet I had 200 + lbs easy including the cooler and my wifes shoes. Brad
BEER30 Posted January 5, 2007 #6 Posted January 5, 2007 I was wondering this as well , as I am gathering up supplies to build my trailer . So far I have gathered up foam board to make a mold , then glass it over . I'm leaning towards torsion bars for the suspension , 12" mag rims , build in cooler box , 12 volt aux battery pack /110 inverter and compressor just to start . Gene
Kurt Posted January 5, 2007 #7 Posted January 5, 2007 Maybe this link will help some http://www.dauntlessmotors.com/hitch-pages/yamaha.htm#Yamaha_Royal_Star_Venture
Rick Butler Posted January 5, 2007 #8 Posted January 5, 2007 Monsta, The fact of the matter is that since day one, pulling a (or any) trailer will void your factory warrenty, especially on a rear end claim. This is primarily due to the fact (IMHO) that Yamaha is very influenced by their legal staff and they will not do or support anything that will cause them any liability. In other words pulling a trailer can be dangerous if not set up and pulled properly, which they WILL NOT endorse. But in reality we all pull trailers and most of us have never had a problem. And there is an entire industry dedicated to the fact that touring bikes pull trailers, from pop-up campers to suit case size cargo trailers. But the nice thing about this issue is that it is entirely in the hands of your Yamaha dealer service manager, not Yamaha America. Whatever your service manager says to Yamaha they will take with no problem. So this is why you should establish a good relationship with this person, so he (or she) will be on your side when it comes to a claim that might be a problem. But if you do pull a trailer and have a rear end claim (and do not have a good relationship with this person) I'd take the hitch off and hide (or take off) all suspect trailer wiring. Because if they have to bring in a factory Yamaha Service tech and he sees a trailer hitch that will be it? But in answer to you other questions, I would not go above 40 lbs (or 60 at the most) or less than 20 lbs on the hitch, depending on the rest of the rider and passenger weight. What most folks do not realize is that as the bike and trailer moves, this weight lessens. Now on the max weight of a trailer, I pulled a 300 lb camping trailer that carried 300 lbs (600 lbs total). Remember this is only rolling weight resistence, which only requires horsepower and good brakes to get it moving and stop it. Hope this helped, but do what you need to, Rick Oh, here is a picture of my new 91 pulling a Travelite camper and a Flexit sidecar in the Black Hills. Those Harley riders didn't know what to think about it?
sarges46 Posted January 5, 2007 #9 Posted January 5, 2007 Ok...getting ready to get yelled at again..but here goes. I read that one shouldnt tow any more than half the weight of the bike. Does that make sense?
Rocket Posted January 5, 2007 #10 Posted January 5, 2007 Ok...getting ready to get yelled at again..but here goes. I read that one shouldnt tow any more than half the weight of the bike. Does that make sense? Rick, that is a rule of thumb for most normal vehicles, it boils down to braking capacity & frame design for loads. Other factors are also included as well.
juggler Posted January 5, 2007 #11 Posted January 5, 2007 Ok...getting ready to get yelled at again..but here goes. I read that one shouldnt tow any more than half the weight of the bike. Does that make sense? Now is that the just the weight of the bike combined bike weight and my weight? If it's combined weight I can get an extra 150+ pounds in the trailer. Or should I be subtracting my weight?
Bvinson Posted January 5, 2007 #12 Posted January 5, 2007 A couple of years ago we were on our way down to Kerrville for the Texas Gathering. I stopped by Rick Butlers place to join up for the ride. Well he was having a problem with his trailer and time was slipping by. Finally it seemed the only option was to load everything in my trailer. We could barley get the lid to close... It had everything in there but the kitchen sink. I don't know what the entire rig weighed but I can say it was a hell of a lot. Pulled it just fine 70 +. Need to keep an eye on closure and stopping because it comes up quickly with the extra weight.
Guest FreeMasonRC S.FL Posted February 13, 2007 #13 Posted February 13, 2007 For sake of speaking out...... I pull a Matrix Trailer, trailer weight is 210 Lbs. Empty. Its said to carry 500 Lbs. I try to stay at half the weight allowed. the trailer is 26 cu. ft. the wife and I carry, a large cooler (Full) 3 suitcases, tools, spare tire, rain gear, small 4x4 table & 2 chairs camping gear & tent. the trailer is 5.5 ft long box x 42" wide x 41" tall w/ a 5' tounge www.advantagetrailers.com tell Dave, Mike sent cha..............
FJR Rider Posted February 14, 2007 #14 Posted February 14, 2007 As somebody earlier said, the ability to stop is the key. The RSV, two up, will pull 325 lb camper (full of gear, so about 425-450 lbs) just fine. I keep the tongue weight less than 30 lbs...while you can feel the weight pulling away from a stop, and you definitely know it's there slowing down, at most times it's hard to tell the trailer is back there. One pix is our 99 with the Bunkhouse, and the other picture is our friends 01 with their Hannigan sidecar and their bunkhouse...they typically have 3 people riding (two adults and their 16 year old daughter). Gas mileage isn't that good, but the RSV has no problem with the weight. Curt
dr_bar Posted September 22, 2008 #15 Posted September 22, 2008 The vendors of most trailers will tell you that tongue weight should be 10% of the trailer weight, loaded. If you go light on the tongue, you're asking for all kinds of problems on the road. Get yourself a hook style scale and weigh the tongue before leaving, it could save your life. How do you know the total weight of your trailer??? Easy, weigh the stuff you put in it then add it to the trailers listed weight...
Brake Pad Posted September 22, 2008 #16 Posted September 22, 2008 I load the trailer, with the cooler first, just forward of the wheels, then load suitcases, infront of the cooler. all the litle things anywhere there is room. No problems. most weight in trailer. maybe 600 LBS, with trailers weight included.
dr_bar Posted September 22, 2008 #17 Posted September 22, 2008 I load the trailer, with the cooler first, just forward of the wheels, then load suitcases, infront of the cooler. all the litle things anywhere there is room. No problems. most weight in trailer. maybe 600 LBS, with trailers weight included. I loaded my trailer so that the tongue weight was between 10 & 15lbs, then I put the cooler loaded with bevies and ice on the tongue mounted rack and that brought her up to 32lbs... http://www3.telus.net/drbar/pics/Bike%20and%20trailer.jpg
Guest tx2sturgis Posted September 22, 2008 #18 Posted September 22, 2008 Rule of thumb is normally, the loaded trailer should not weigh more than about half the weight of the bike. Of course, there is some variance here. In general, the lighter, the better. One thing that hasnt yet been mentioned, is that as the weight of the trailer goes up, so does wear and tear on the bike...such things as tires and brakes, plus clutch wear, engine/tranny and rear end oil, rear shock life, will all be affected, and you would be well advised to attend to these items as if your bike was in severe duty, meaning, shorten the service intervals on fluids, and, check brakes and tires more often. Pulling a heavy trailer puts added stress and loads on most of the critical systems on the bike. And if you are pulling that trailer on very hot days, for long periods, or in the mountains, or at high speeds, you are shortening the life of some components and vital fluids. So...long story short? Lighten the load when possible, and check and inspect everything!
DkKnight Posted September 22, 2008 #19 Posted September 22, 2008 Having been to a few of the VR events I have seen a fair number of BIG and I mean REALLY BIG FOLKS, some riding 2 up. All that being said. I think the word A LOT says it all!
hillrider Posted September 22, 2008 #20 Posted September 22, 2008 Tongue weight? Get a fish scale. I run mine between 30-40 bs with no problem. We do a lot a primitive camping (Aluma trailer). and the sucker routinely goes over 500 lbs. To test, put a bathroom scale under one wheel (times 2 plus tongue weight). Really can't tell it's there on the road, but am ALWAYS aware of extended stopping distance. Pot holes in a parking lot are a real joy.
Condor Posted September 22, 2008 #21 Posted September 22, 2008 With the stopping issues that have been brought up, I wonder if anybody builds electric brakes for the smaller MC trailers. Might be a good idea??
greg_in_london Posted September 22, 2008 #22 Posted September 22, 2008 Now on the max weight of a trailer, I pulled a 300 lb camping trailer that carried 300 lbs (600 lbs total). Remember this is only rolling weight resistence, which only requires horsepower and good brakes to get it moving and stop it. Sorry - just had to jump in and say that this is really not true. Or not completely true, anyway. Admittedly the strains on a tow hitch are less than an uninitiated person might have thought, but when you are rolling along a bumpy road, or even worse a gently undulating one (or concrete slab motorway...) the weight of the trilaer has a definite effect, particularly if you have a noticeable nose weight. We all know how our bikes react to bumps, but the trailer will too. With a centre of gravity ahead of the axle the trailer will be pushing up and down on the hitch in time with the bumps. The effective force is amplified because the hitch will be so far behind the BIKE's centre of gravity. Last month on the Czech motorway from Brno towards Prague the concrete slabs started an oscillation on the trailer (up-down, not side-side) that had the nose of the sidecar and front forks dipping and rising by a good few inches until I found a speed where it did not happen (so much).
Thom Posted September 22, 2008 #23 Posted September 22, 2008 With the stopping issues that have been brought up, I wonder if anybody builds electric brakes for the smaller MC trailers. Might be a good idea??[/quote yep just use a 8 in. brake backing plate and hub , and a brake control that is used on a car . Thom
Condor Posted September 22, 2008 #24 Posted September 22, 2008 With the stopping issues that have been brought up, I wonder if anybody builds electric brakes for the smaller MC trailers. Might be a good idea??[/quote yep just use a 8 in. brake backing plate and hub , and a brake control that is used on a car . Thom Do they make the set up in a 4 bolt pattern, and small enough to take the smaller wheels of a 12" tire?? Any pics of an installation.
Christo Posted September 23, 2008 #25 Posted September 23, 2008 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Berkley-lb-Digital-Fish-Scale/dp/B000E7UJTG/ref=pd_sbs_sg_2]This is what I got for my trips with my trailer[/ame]
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