Just need verification

[Angelo]

Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.

[rougeray]

Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.

 

One quick check. With the R/R connected to the wiring harness can you stick needles into the red and black wires then measure the output of the R/R at the plug? This would tell you if you have a wiring problem back to the battery be it a bad ground or bad connection. The output of the R/R goes to the starter solenoid then to the battery. I have replaced two starter solenoids on my 07 due to corrosion. Output measured at the R/R plug should be at or around 14 vdc. If not I would be looking to replace it.

 

 

Sounds like you have a good stator installed. Where did you get it and is it a high output stator? Be advised many people on this forum have said get a R/R that is compatible with a high output stator as a OEM or run of the mill aftermarket won't last with the high output stator. Now that the holidays are over I'm gonna get back to getting mine fixed. My next step is to replace the stator. Since I bought a aftermarket R/R and that did not work I would like to just buy a aftermarket standard stator to match it. However I have not seen one advertised at a reputable seller. I'm sure one from a dealer would be as much as one from say Buckeye Performance. Soooo a couple of questions.

1. Where did you get your new stator and is it a high output.

2. You obviously found the connector from the stator to the wiring harness. Where did you find it? None of your posts prior to replacing the stator acknowledged you had found it.

[V7Goose]

Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.

You MUST bolt the RR back in place - the unit has to have the frame ground to function.

Goose

[Angelo]

One quick check. With the R/R connected to the wiring harness can you stick needles into the red and black wires then measure the output of the R/R at the plug? This would tell you if you have a wiring problem back to the battery be it a bad ground or bad connection. The output of the R/R goes to the starter solenoid then to the battery. I have replaced two starter solenoids on my 07 due to corrosion. Output measured at the R/R plug should be at or around 14 vdc. If not I would be looking to replace it.

 

 

Sounds like you have a good stator installed. Where did you get it and is it a high output stator? Be advised many people on this forum have said get a R/R that is compatible with a high output stator as a OEM or run of the mill aftermarket won't last with the high output stator. Now that the holidays are over I'm gonna get back to getting mine fixed. My next step is to replace the stator. Since I bought a aftermarket R/R and that did not work I would like to just buy a aftermarket standard stator to match it. However I have not seen one advertised at a reputable seller. I'm sure one from a dealer would be as much as one from say Buckeye Performance. Soooo a couple of questions.

1. Where did you get your new stator and is it a high output.

2. You obviously found the connector from the stator to the wiring harness. Where did you find it? None of your posts prior to replacing the stator acknowledged you had found it.

 

Checked for voltage at the plug like you advised, only battery voltage there. Bought the stator from

 

Stator Aftermarket Parts & Custom Stator Rebuilds

 

I found his listings on Amazon and saved a few dollars though. He still has a couple posted there if you need one.

 

Found that stupid connector under the bracket that mounts the coolant tank. Had to pull the left exhaust pipe to get access to the metal clamp that holds the wiring harness that comes up from under the bike. After you loosen that clamp, you can get enough movement (barley) to expose the connector.

Edited January 3, 2015 by Angelo

[Angelo]

You MUST bolt the RR back in place - the unit has to have the frame ground to function.

Goose

 

Thought I was being smart leaving it loose until I could confirm it was fixed but in this case it didn't bite me. Bolted it in place and still no charging voltage.

[MikeWa]

Thought I was being smart leaving it loose until I could confirm it was fixed but in this case it didn't bite me. Bolted it in place and still no charging voltage.

 

I don't know how to tell you this but it might have bitten you. Some of the old automobile electronic voltage regulators would burn out if you tried to test them without the case being grounded. Unfortunately I don't have enough experience with the Venture regulators to know for sure. So anyone with experience is welcome to chime in here.

 

Mike

[rougeray]

This was a post sometime ago made by dingy. Just thought I would throw it out there for consideration. It appears though a new R/R is in order based on your last post. Be sure and post what eventually happens.

 

"Something else that would be very helpful that has been mentioned before on this forum is to run a heavy gauge wire from the regulator to the battery. Do this on the red (positive) & black (negative) wire. Use at least 12 gauge wire. If you have the type of regulator that has a brown wire, it's OK as is. This was used a voltage sensor.

 

 

Reason this helps is that inside of the wiring harness there are a couple of crimp style connections between the regulator & the battery that can become high resistance with all the vibration & other various factors that they are subject to. Especially the ground wire side. It has connections all over. There is one connection in particular on the VMax's that is notorious for causing problems. Venture harnesses are of course different, so problem could be similar at other points.

 

 

If you are going to run the extra wires, I would SOLDER them into the R/R right next to the body of the R/R. In other words, don't go through the R/R connector, less chance for a high resistance problem. Solder a ring type connection on the battery end and screw it right to the posts. It would be prudent to put at least a 30 amp fuse in line with the positive wire as close to battery as can be. I know the 1st gens have a 40 amp main fuse, but this wire will not carry the full load, it is in parallel with existing wiring. 40 amp fuse holders are not commonly available."

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gary