Kettlinton Posted January 1, 2015 #1 Posted January 1, 2015 Hello all Time for a rear tire and I want to pull the rear wheel off myself and take to dealer. Do i need to remove the saddlebags, exhaust, ect??? Never pulled rear wheel before. This is on a 99 RSV, Thanks!!!
Angelo Posted January 1, 2015 #2 Posted January 1, 2015 It's actually not too bad but yes bags and trunk come off as well as the right side muffler and passenger foot rests. Even taking your time it shouldn't take more than an hour.
Bert2006 Posted January 1, 2015 #3 Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) I have done it and only removed the bags and slip-ons. No need to remove anything else such as trunk or rear foot rests. There is a write up on it in the 2nd gen tech section. Here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/suspension-tires-handlebars-etc-/515-rear-wheel-removal.html Edited January 1, 2015 by Bert2006
djh3 Posted January 1, 2015 #4 Posted January 1, 2015 Go to here. Then select from the drop down list 2nd Gen-Wheels and tires. It should give you about 3 options, one of which is a video. Also some references to it in 2nd Gen tech section here, but I didnt find it. you should also lube up the rear splines while you got it apart and probably change the rear gear oil as well. Video here. Try here for write up. Basicly you need: bike on a lift that is secure at a fairly high level to get wheel out. Both bags off. Both mufflers off. Take off equipment first, then worry about getting the bike up. OK just did a test of the links to Venturers. At the top of the site look for :tech library" and go from there. Sorry but they dont allow links.
Angelo Posted January 2, 2015 #5 Posted January 2, 2015 I have done it and only removed the bags and slip-ons. No need to remove anything else such as trunk or rear foot rests. There is a write up on it in the 2nd gen tech section. Here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/suspension-tires-handlebars-etc-/515-rear-wheel-removal.html Wish I read this before I did mine, looks even faster and easier.
2WHEELSFORME Posted January 2, 2015 #6 Posted January 2, 2015 Only the right bag comes off when I do it. No trunk, no peg, no muff. Takes about 25 min.
Angelo Posted January 2, 2015 #7 Posted January 2, 2015 Only the right bag comes off when I do it. No trunk, no peg, no muff. Takes about 25 min. How do you get the axle bolt out without removing the muffler?
MikeWa Posted January 2, 2015 #8 Posted January 2, 2015 First time around I would remove both saddlebags. It will be easier to see what is going on. Also while the wheel is off be sure to lube the rear wheel clutch pins. Mike
2WHEELSFORME Posted January 2, 2015 #9 Posted January 2, 2015 How do you get the axle bolt out without removing the muffler? I have Nasty Boys aftermarket pipes that are much smaller that stock muffs and the bolt slides out over the top.
2WHEELSFORME Posted January 2, 2015 #10 Posted January 2, 2015 Also a good time to check the pads and replace or at least swap the sides as one wears faster than the other.
djh3 Posted January 2, 2015 #11 Posted January 2, 2015 Taking the bags and mufflers off first will lighten the bike up some. Also will be more balanced when you go to jack it up.
Rick Haywood Posted January 2, 2015 #12 Posted January 2, 2015 Taking the bags and mufflers off first will lighten the bike up some. Also will be more balanced when you go to jack it up. Not trying to be a smart A** but why would it be more balanced without the bags and pipes? Arent we taking the same weight off of both sides.
2WHEELSFORME Posted January 2, 2015 #13 Posted January 2, 2015 No reason to take the left bag off, nothing but a single nut comes off that side and it is easy to reach with nothing more than an adjustable wrench. No reason to worry about a balancing act as the bike will see more movement from getting the tire and rim out from under the fender than that much imbalance. Don't make it harder than it needs to be. Check the pads, grease the pins. I have two sets of wheels and one with new rubber is ready to go back on the bike as soon as the old one comes off.
Freebird Posted January 2, 2015 #14 Posted January 2, 2015 Taking the bags off is so easy and quick that there is not reason not to. Just makes it easier. Also, the axle bolt torques to 110 ft.lbs. Hard to get a torque wrench on it without removing the bag and the muffler. Doesn't take long and just makes the entire job easier.
djh3 Posted January 2, 2015 #15 Posted January 2, 2015 I have yet to get the axle bolt out without, er some persuasion insisted upon it also. So should I need to get a punch on the bolt to get it started out, I sure dont want to miss and hit the bags. For me because there is a CD player in the left bag its a bit more involved, but if no CD machine its 4 bolts and more room to work. Also getting the tire back up on the splines for me is easier if I didnt have to fight around the bag. Whatever works for you.
N3FOL Posted January 5, 2015 #16 Posted January 5, 2015 I agree removing all bags to make your job easier. It is also a good time to do a visual check on what is under there. Fwiw, it takes longer for me to check on my Facebook account than removing a bag on my RSV. [emoji11]
Kettlinton Posted January 5, 2015 Author #17 Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks for all the info!! This site is great!
Semi-retired Posted April 14, 2015 #18 Posted April 14, 2015 I have done it and only removed the bags and slip-ons. No need to remove anything else such as trunk or rear foot rests. There is a write up on it in the 2nd gen tech section. Here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/suspension-tires-handlebars-etc-/515-rear-wheel-removal.html This link is dead.
RedRider Posted April 14, 2015 #19 Posted April 14, 2015 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?515-Rear-Wheel-Removal Try this. Couple of hints to make it easier: 1: A 10mm (IIRC) Allen wrench fits into the throttle side end of the axle. This allows you to turn and loosen it up. 2: Anti-Seize is your friend. Coat the axle with A-S before reinstalling. It will make your removal much easier next time. DO NOT GET ANTI-SEIZE ON THE THREADS. The torque specification for the axle nut is for dry threads. If you get A-S on the threads, you will severely over-tighten the nut. RR
Semi-retired Posted April 14, 2015 #20 Posted April 14, 2015 Just got to the point where I need the wrench to undo my rear axle nut. There's ONE BIG box wrench that comes in the bike's stock "tool kit".....(and, yes, I use the term lightly).......but, if there were gonna be one big wrench in there, doncha think it would be the 27 mm that fits the rear axle..........instead of the 24mm that fits...........WTF?
Semi-retired Posted April 14, 2015 #21 Posted April 14, 2015 (edited) OK......I mooched a 1 1/16 open end from a buddy.......got the axle nut undone, got the wheel off. Now how do I get that hub with the fingers on it out of the wheel? And, should those fingers really be lubricated, as somebody said? Edited April 14, 2015 by Semi-retired
Du-Rron Posted April 15, 2015 #22 Posted April 15, 2015 There is a c-clip on the cush drive hub that you must remove. For lubrication, see here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?95242-To-Lube-or-Not-to-Lube-That-is-the-question
Semi-retired Posted April 15, 2015 #23 Posted April 15, 2015 Thanks, buddy! Finally noticed that from a drawing somewhere. All I gotta do now is McGiver a pair of circlip pliers out of a paperclip. LOL! For lube.......I'm just gonna slap some Moly on everything that looks shiny......or black. :-)
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now