Carb Removal

[Joshua Sameulson]

Having recently gotten a bike to rehab that has set awhile I got around to really digging in to it today. Removed the tank and gave it a quart of kerosene to rinse it out. The hoses are a bit checked so they where replaced. Makes sense to at least take off the float bowls and assess whether or not to take it down further. The clamps on the intake boots are loose and the carbs are still a bit snug. The manual makes it sound as if you can remove the carbs right off the boots but I'm a big guy with a large set of easy outs to prove my ability to snap stuff off. Can these be pried up or should I take the boots off right at the head? The only reason I ask is a previous hack covered the boots in some kind of epoxy, I'm guessing they where either split or checked. The bolts are covered and if need be I'll chip away to get them off, just not sure if I need to do it.

[BlueSky]

I replaced the intake boots when I rebuilt the carbs on my 85 Kawasaki when I first bought it when I was trying to get it to run right because they looked cracked. after I got them off, I could seen the cracks didn't go all the way through but I had the new ones so on they went.

[flyday58]

If they're typical 30+ year-old boots they will have lost all semblance to pliable rubber. I have to pry mine off each time as they're removed, and a squirt of wd40 or some such helps them pop back in. Careful where you pry, of course.

 

Has the bike been sitting up at all? Even if not, it's worth it to go thoroughly through the carbs to clear all the passages and remove any varnish buildup. If you don't have a good set of passageway cleaners it's worth the investment. I got mine on fleabay for $8. It's just different sized wires for cleaning out holes.

[MasterGuns]

I use a short crowbar to pry mine off. If you think removing the carbs is somewhat difficult, you will be making up a few new four letter words when it comes time to pop them back in those hardened manifold boots. I had to use me wife's hair dryer to heat em up to finally get them to pop back in. That was in addition to my 220 lbs standing right on top of them. Good luck.

[MasterGuns]

I use a short crowbar to pry mine off. If you think removing the carbs is somewhat difficult, you will be making up a few new four letter words when it comes time to pop them back in those hardened manifold boots. I had to use my wife's hair dryer to heat em up to finally get them to pop back in. That was in addition to my 220 lbs standing right on top of them. Good luck.

[MiCarl]

I'm not sure you can get the carbs out with the boots attached. Wouldn't that be a bummer after reaching in there with 2 fingers to remove the screws?

 

As flyday58 indicated, you can pry them off. I use an old hammer handle and make sure you're not prying on anything delicate. I use soapy water on reassembly.

[Condor]

On 1stGen carbs that are stubborn I usually pry with the wooden handle of a ball peen hammer to get them started. WD40 also helps loosen them up.

[Joshua Sameulson]

Thanks for all the input guys! I'm just going over things trying to get it going down the road for a test and keep finding more stuff that needs attention to make it even that far. As to the boots, they'll more than likely be replaced but in the mean time I'm just want to get it to run to see what I've got to work with, the heat idea sounds smart!

[Prairiehammer]

CAREFULLY pry after a good dousing of WD40. When you go to put the carbs back, spray some silicone around the heated boots. Make sure you reassemble the carbs as a rack while on a flat surface to insure proper alignment of carbs to intake boots.

[flyday58]

Make sure you reassemble the carbs as a rack while on a flat surface to insure proper alignment of carbs to intake boots.

True dat.

[greg_in_london]

I've changed rubbers on other bikes (XJ600 Diversion springs to mind, and a Suzuki GR650) but on the Venture I still have the originals. To reinstall I use that red rubber grease (one tub will last forever or until you stand on it...) that is also good for brake bits and does not make rubber perish. That seems to help with the rebuild