Trailering bike inside Toyhauler

[jryan]

Want to get an 8x20 toyhauler and haul my RSV. I'm looking for advice on a wheel chock for the front tire. I'd like something I can secure to the floor somehow to keep it from sliding, but when removed I don't want a big bracket sitting there that I constantly stub my toe on!

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks...JR

[ragtop69gs]

Most locking wheel chockS can be mounted to e-track set into the floor, when chock is removed you have a flat clear floor. google e track wheel chock, lots of ideas will pop up.

 

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[Bert2006]

I use one of these. Its removable and the mounting gear then is almost flush with floor.

 

 

Pingel Removable Wheel Chock - 6 1/2in. Inside Width - WC650 - Pingel - - Canada's Motorcycle

[djh3]

I have just a 6x12 cargo trailer, but have same concerns. As we use the trailer to haul some boxs and have to work out of also. I was thinking for me I was going to make some sort of nutplate. The e track or similar type track system works well.

[Woody]

I use one from harbour freight and use straps to tie it in place. once the weight is on it I have never had it move.

 

 

[h=1]1800 Lb Capacity Motorcycle Stand/Wheel Chock [/h]

[MikeWa]

+1 on Harbor freight. But you still need tie downs.

 

Mike

 

[friesman]

you may want to check where you put your chock based on the weight. 850 lbs will affect your handling so check your location so you get about 10% of the weight on the hitch, and then put the chock there. On my 12x6 enclosed trailer the back of the bike had to be almost at my rear tailgate, but ive seen others that were placed quite a bit farther forward as their trailer axle was more forward than mine was.

 

Brian

[Condor]

I use a 5x10 half wall trailer, and I'm sure the same would apply to a toy hauler. In my first attempts at trailering my '83VR I used a couple of 2x4's on each side of the front wheel with a cross piece to keep the bike from creeping forward during stops. Then tied it down with a ton of 1" ratchet straps. Looked like a spider web, but figured the more the merrier.... It was a chore getting the bike centered up off the side stand, and took quite a while to get it secured. After a couple of years, I went out and bought one of the heavy duty Harbor Freight chocks. Got it on sale, and I guess that's what motivated me. The thing is a 'sorta' copy of a Condor... no relation.... aluminum chock that sell for close to $300 new. The HB chock is made out of steel, powder coated, and ran about $60. I lagged it to the floor of the trailer, and have never been happier. Ride the bike on and into the chock and get off. No more side stand. I just leave it on the trailer. In a toy hauler it could be secured to the floor using blind nuts, and removed when not needed.

[rmac345]

Condor with it's floor mount kit. Have 2 in my 7X14 trailer and can haul to full dressers. Best on the market! Didn't want to scrimp on quality. $225 for chock and kit on Amazon.

[guns_usn_20]

hello

I have the condor SC-2000 installed on my trailer. What are your cradle settings? My 07 RSTD will not sit upright. I have to use the kick stand. My cradle is in the #1 position

Thank You in advance and ride safely

 

Jim Bell

Nicholasville, Ky

[Condor]

You may have it set too far forward. The front wheel need to ride over the 'hump' and fall into the trough.... The wheel at rest needs to be elevated off the bottom of the chock so that the front wheel is forced into the upright channel. I'm not sure how effective it is since the upright is a channel with a 'V' that should be adjustable?? That one of the big reasons why I like the Harbor Freight so much in that the whole upright is a 'V' and with the fat front tire of the RSV it's snug.. You ride the bike on and get off. It stays upright and on center.... One thought.... do you have your cantalever installed properly?? It can go on backwards?? The long leg goes toward the rear...

 

 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-capacity-motorcycle-standwheel-chock-61670.html

 

[GaryZ]

We bought a 30' toy hauler last summer and towed the '92 to Missouri for a family reunion. The garage area has a queen size bed that stores on the ceiling and a table with 6' benches on each side. The benches fold against the wall for carrying the bike, flatten into beds, or are benches for sitting at the table.

 

I mounted my Harbor Freight wheel chock on a 2'x4'x3/4" piece of plywood with rubber matting on the underside (to prevent damage to the floor). The nice thing about this wheel chock set up is that it fits under one of the 6' benches. I tied the bike securely to tie-downs on the floor and took off. The trailer seemed to be "loose" on the road. Previous experience told me there was too much weight on the tail. I moved the bike forward about 2 feet (the garage area is 12' long) and the towing got better.

 

When we got there I found the bike had laid over onto the kitchen counter. Inspection suggests the wheel chock and plywood rotated and turned the front wheel of the bike enough to unload the tie downs. I tied the bike down with more straps for the trip home and made it without any trouble.

 

My next trip will have out-riggers on the wheel chock to prevent it from rotating. I am also looking at making a pair of "training wheels" to use when loading and transporting the bike.

[Condor]

I donno Gary, but it sounds like overkill for the plywood and then training wheels.... Why not install blind nuts in the floor and use wing screws to fasten the chock down. All you'll see in the floor will be two or 4 threaded holes?? Just place the chock where you want it and use it for a template when drilling for the holes and make sure you're not drilling into something important... :-) And BTW I removed the two rubber feet to get the chock to lay flat on the bed of the trailer. They're really not needed unless you plan on using the chock as a work stand??

 

 

On the training wheels it all comes down to technique. Riding/duck walking the bike up into the chock under power is pretty straight forward. It's backing out that can get a little dicey. Backing up is no problem until all the weight of the bike transfers to the rear wheel and you really don't want to pick your right foot up to hit the brakes and loose your balance so it becomes a sleigh ride. What I've found is to start the bike and put it into first gear before backing out of the chock, and when the front tire looses traction and wants to start skidding on the ramp just let out on the clutch lever a tad and it'll stop skidding, and you can back down the ramp with both feet on the ground. The clutch becomes your rear brake in a way... IMHO... :-)

[djh3]

From what I have read, the chock needs to be fastened to the floor. The backing down the ramp would worry me. What if you could decrease the angle of the door with additional length? WE have looked at toy haulers for a couple years now. Love to have one, but just can convince ourselves we will use it enough.

[Woody]

we have a 16 foot enclosed trailer we use to haul and camp in when I had my RSV I used a harbor freight chock and I installed D-rings close to the wall then I would ratchet strap the chock to the D-rings and the bike to a different set of D-rings, never had a problem. now that I have my trike I do the same thing without the chock. I still carry it in case I have to retrieve a broken down bike. I like the chock with the brace across the front no twisting or movement with the ratchet straps holding it in place and no problem to remove.

[Condor]

From what I have read, the chock needs to be fastened to the floor. The backing down the ramp would worry me. What if you could decrease the angle of the door with additional length? WE have looked at toy haulers for a couple years now. Love to have one, but just can convince ourselves we will use it enough.

 

Actually on a trailer you can jack up the tongue a bit and it will decrease the angle of the ramp, but increase the floor slope.... Ditto on the toy hauler.... But if I were rich.....

[GaryZ]

Why not install blind nuts in the floor and use wing screws to fasten the chock down. . . What I've found is to start the bike and put it into first gear before backing out of the chock, and when the front tire looses traction and wants to start skidding on the ramp just let out on the clutch lever a tad and it'll stop skidding, and you can back down the ramp with both feet on the ground. The clutch becomes your rear brake in a way... IMHO... :-)

 

The toy hauler is new, well a year old. My wife gave me "the look" when I suggested drilling holes in the floor.

 

Really interesting idea, using the engine as a brake when backing out. Thanks!

[Woody]

my problem was when the back tire was on the ground and the front tire was on the ramp my feet were not touching anything!

[EtRider]

I have hauled my venture in my toyhauler for years. The Harbor freight wheel chock is bolted to the floor and when I arrive at destination, I unbolt it and all that is left are the well nuts that I put in the floor. As far as the ramp, two 2x4s cut to about 5 or 6 feet are put down where the ramp meets the ground. That way I can "walk" the bike up or down the ramp and my feet still touch. The boards store just about anyplace when traveling. Works great.

[Condor]

The toy hauler is new, well a year old. My wife gave me "the look" when I suggested drilling holes in the floor.

 

Really interesting idea, using the engine as a brake when backing out. Thanks!

 

Tell her they're very tiny holes and if you counter sink the hole a little you can put a wooden plug over each one... :-) Then duck...

 

Yeah, it avoids those Yikes moments.... I've had a few until I came up with the idea...

my problem was when the back tire was on the ground and the front tire was on the ramp my feet were not touching anything!

 

Time to jack up the tongue....Or... see below...

 

I have hauled my venture in my toyhauler for years. The Harbor freight wheel chock is bolted to the floor and when I arrive at destination, I unbolt it and all that is left are the well nuts that I put in the floor. As far as the ramp, two 2x4s cut to about 5 or 6 feet are put down where the ramp meets the ground. That way I can "walk" the bike up or down the ramp and my feet still touch. The boards store just about anyplace when traveling. Works great.

[93 venture]

this is how i attach mine to the floor, even if you cant do it this way, it still has to be mounted to the floor, just get a throw rug to cover up the holes.