It's Time To Pay Your Bike Back!

[skydoc_17]

For many of us, the weather has brought our riding season to an end. If you are one of the lucky ones, and can ride most or ALL of the year then take a moment and check the following items off of your "To Do" list. The rest of the members that use the winter break to tune our bikes up for next season please use the checklist below and get your bike in tip top shape for spring!

 

FLUIDS: Brake and Clutch Fluid (Clutch Fluid = Brake Fluid) is NOT Hydraulic fluid, it is Alcohol based and resembles

Antifreeze more so than Hydraulic Fluid. Alcohol is an incomplete molecular chain, and absorbs water to complete the chain. What this means is that as your brake fluid absorbs water, the oxygen in the water burns off due to the heat generated by the braking process and creates the black carbon that turns your CLEAR brake fluid darker and darker until it is useless. I flush my brake and clutch system EVERY winter. If I go on an extended ride, (Like a cross country vacation)

or if I ride the "Dragon", I flush my brake and clutch system as soon as I return home. AND I still flush my brakes and clutch at the end of the riding season. If you look in the "fish eye" window, and your brake and clutch fluid is ANY other color than clear, then it's time to change that fluid. Period. If you haven't serviced your brakes and clutch in two or more years, or never, then you can expect to be buying a new Clutch Slave Cylinder or a rebuild kit for your brake Master Cylinder or a complete caliper rebuild because your caliper has seized up as a result of poor maintenance of your brake and clutch system. At roughly $6.00 a pint, once a year, to keep the system that STOPS YOUR 800 POUND MOTORCYCLE and allows you to shift gears without burning up your clutch, well that sounds like a bargain to me.

 

BRAKE PADS: 15 minutes, and a 12MM boxed end wrench is all it takes to check both front calipers on your bike! If you have ever ran a set of brake pads down to the metal backing plates then you are the rider I want to be RIDING BEHIND!

If you buy cheap brake pads and then complain because you have to change them out all the time, or your bike doesn't stop worth a crap, then here's a tip: STOP BUYING CHEAP BRAKE PADS! Personally, I think it is a marvel of mechanics that a brake pad that is the size of 4 postage stamps can bring an 800 pound motorcycle to a complete stop...EVER!

Not to mention the fact that I am trusting MY LIFE and the life of the person I love most in this world (MY WIFE, not my dog!) who is trusting ME not to cheap out on vital equipment that keeps us stopping safely. I would rather replace a rotor than purchase a headstone because I couldn't stop in time. I personally run the EBC HH pads up front because they give me excellent stopping power and they last as long as any other brand. I run the EBC Kevlar pads on the rear because our bikes have a "Lock-Up" issue, and I have found that these brake pads reduce that problem tremendously.

If you have found another braking product that works well for you, then by all means share this info with us, but most importantly, check and replace your brake pads BEFORE you do damage to your rotors, or your person. Is your life worth the cost of a set or two of brake pads, I know mine is.

 

OIL: I have my own personal favorite engine oil as I am sure most of you have as well. I don't really care what engine oil you use, just change it regularly, and don't cheap out and NOT change the filter at the same time. Your engine oil is the "Life Blood" of the engine and transmission in your motorcycle. The oil lubricates the pistons and bearing inside the motor as well as bathes the gears, clutch discs and plates in the transmission. It keeps your engine and tranny at a constant temperature. Here's a tip: DON'T OVERFILL YOUR ENGINE OIL! Don't put oil in your bike like you're putting Ranch Dressing on a salad! 1/2 way up the sight glass is as full as your bike will ever need. Any more than that and your PVC system will suck the engine oil right up into your air filters. "More is better" is NOT the rule here. And finally, if you are using automotive engine oil with "friction modifiers" because your Pinto can use it as well, then count on replacing the clutch sooner than you would like to. Boy, the few bucks you saved on oil doesn't seem like such a great deal now that you're having to replace your clutch, does it!?!?

 

TIRES: What can I say about tires. If your tread looks like the "ghost flame" paint job on your custom tank, then it might be time to replace your tires. If the wear bars are the only traction surface on your tires, then you might need to replace your tires. If you have never put a chalk mark on your rear tire, and had a friend roll the bike forward while you look at the entire tire tread, then maybe you need to make more friends. Or sponsor a "Meet and Greet" and envite other VR.ORG members to your home. In other words, check your tires, you only have TWO, and they both need to work ALL THE TIME you ride!

 

If this post has made you angry, then use that energy to go out and look your bike over closely! If I have brought a guilty smile to your face, then catch up on some of those things that you have been meaning to do but have put on the back burner. If you don't know how to service any of the items I have mentioned above, then SPEAK UP! Ask for help here on the forum. Or feel free to PM me and I will do everything in my power to help you learn how to service your bike properly. There are many members of this forum that have a treasure trove of knowledge about these motorcycles. Contact a member in your area and have lunch with them. If you have the courage to ask for help, I assure you that there is a member of this forum that will help you. I ride my 28 year old First Gen. as hard as most here, and I would put my bike up against any bike on this forum for dependability.

My thoughts for what they are worth.

Earl

[pbjman]

Thank you for taking the time to submit such a well written, informative, and to-the-point post. First two things on my current wish list are a bike jack and carbon_one adapter with legs. Gonna want the clutch spring kit before next season too. And....and....and....and!

[Angelo]

What he said!!!!!!!!

[eagleeye]

Thanks for your heads up on our maintenance list to keep us and our bikes safe. When I get at it, I'll go back and reread this post. I plan on all of the above plus the coolant.

(before next riding season)

[Pegasus1300]

+++ on the maintenance at the end of the year. Not to brag (well yes ok I am) in 50 years of riding including early years on Norton Triumph and BSA, I have never had a motorcycle leave me stranded on the side of the road but I have gotten more then one rider going again. It's all in the maintenance and I don't consider myself a very good mechanic at least as compared to some of the great wrenches we have on this site.

[bongobobny]

Hey Earl, glad to see you're still around!!

 

Well written article my friend!

[Yammer Dan]

Dang it Earl. I was resting!!! Now that tire is bugging me!

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

great post Earl, funny how a guy would pay for ghost flames in a second but go cheap on the break pads or try to get that last few hundred miles out of those tires isn't it.

I was once told by a mechanic when asked what is the best oil..... any oil is better than old or no oil so just change it

[etcswjoe]

Thanks, I need to get with you about clutch upgrades.

[CaptainJoe]

Great write up Earl...

Wish you would have wrote this up earlier....

 

This year while heading to Colorado, I had my clutch act up. it wouldn't release when lever was pulled in.

It was very very hot, over 100 degrees out.

Pulled over to side of road, checked oil level(ok)light amber color, clutch fluid level(ok) but the sight glass was tobacco brown.

Whoopisie! was kicking myself for not changing with new dot4 same time I did my brakes.

After it cooled down(1/2 hour) headed to nearest auto parts store and put new dot4 in clutch.

 

Noticed last week when I start up in morning with clutch lever depressed, in first gear if I reeved it, I could feel the bike slightly pulling.

Hoping its just a bubble of air in the clutch slave cylinder ? I'm gonna change the fluids all the way around (bakes, clutch and motor oil).

I put your clutch kit in a couple years and have had zero problems...

 

need to get those speed bleeders... do you sell em?

[Evan]

Thanks so much Earl for the reminder and the good advice. Much appreciated.

[djh3]

I learned about the brake fluid on this bike the hard way. Had them fade out while on a trip in NC mountains with the wife on the bike. I wasn't riding them or acting sporty, but the bozo in front of me in the range rover must have never been in hills before. I got bike wooed down but heart was pounding pretty good. I thought I had a leak the pedal went so far. 20-30 min of rest and it was fine the rest of the trip.

Tires, I knew we had a trip planned for this Oct. Tires probably would have been OK but I errored on the cautious side and changed them. Good thing I did as we rode in more rain than expected and the new tread was appreciated. Even though I put "bargain" type Shinkos on it. So far they have been good.

Edited December 2, 2014 by djh3

[CMCOFFEY]

Amen, and if you ride fast and hard and have obnoxiously loud pipes, you might not hear your brakes wear out until it is too late.

[rowdy7]

Thanks for the excellent reminder post. I also run the EBC HH pads but I am definitely going to try the Kevlar on the rear next time. I am very aware of the "lock up" issue with the rear. I learn something every time I surf this site.

Ride Safe,

Jim

[new to you]

where do I check the clutch fluid.. thought it was the same as the oil I am not "mechanically inclined" I just go my 96RS Classic (not venture) and am trying to learn as I go.. Have rode a lot of bikes over the years but this is the first Big Bike for me. Replaced rear caliper as it was worn through.. eeks that was high.. now my throttle cables have broke.. Changed the oil as soon as I got the bike.. it was black.. really black.. flushed the brake fluid when the caliper change .. but clutch fluid.. no idea.. also .. what lubes the shaft drive? How about .. where do I check the antifreeze?

 

thanks for any help.

Edited April 18, 2015 by new to you

[BlueSky]

Go to the tech section and read, read, and read some more.

[PBJ]

Hey Earl I know this is an old post but so well written. All good advice. Especially at the end of riding season. I'd have gone into fuel stabilizer too . But its spring as i write this and you wrote this originally last fall. I'm spooning in new tires this week. I'll be changing oil and filters before I leave for Lake George in June and the pads will be checked as well.

 

I have a questions for you my friend. I can't get the engine idle down below 2000 rpm's I think I'm looking at a primary vacuum leak. i've tried turning down the idle and i will again after i get the bike warmed up one of these days. but if after doing that it still won't go down . is the primary vacuum he problem and how hard is it to get to to fix or replace that hose? Help!

[ragtop69gs]

where do I check the clutch fluid.. thought it was the same as the oil I am not "mechanically inclined" I just go my 96RS Classic (not venture) and am trying to learn as I go.. Have rode a lot of bikes over the years but this is the first Big Bike for me. Replaced rear caliper as it was worn through.. eeks that was high.. now my throttle cables have broke.. Changed the oil as soon as I got the bike.. it was black.. really black.. flushed the brake fluid when the caliper change .. but clutch fluid.. no idea.. also .. what lubes the shaft drive? How about .. where do I check the antifreeze?

 

thanks for any help.

 

Clutch fluid is checked thru the sight glass on the left handlebar, where your clutch lever is. If it appears dark in color it's time for it to be flushed. The bleeder is on the left at the base of the rear cylinder, under the square black rubber cover.

[new to you]

Thanks

[new to you]

also .. "embarrased" where would I put the clutch fluid in?

[BlueSky]

also .. "embarrased" where would I put the clutch fluid in?

 

That reservoir on the left handlebar where you pull the clutch lever.

[new to you]

thanks! UR a God Send