Motortrike Voyager 1300 conversion

[tucson_sailors]

A quick introduction - I just picked up my first Yamaha a 87 Venture Royale 1300 (been GW for 25 years off and on) as it was already a true trike conversion, and my wife has been wanting us to go 3 wheels. Had intended to Tow-Pac my 83 GL1000i, but may now sell that as I just upgraded.

 

So...not finding a lot of data anywhere about the older motortrike conversions. This one was apparently done in 1997 per the receipts, and the installer is still in business, so gave them a call. From what he could remember, the older MT units had either air shocks, or shocks and air bags, but he couldn't remember the cut-offs for when that changed. So far, I've found two schrader valves under the right side passenger seat body panel, one at 60 psi (max or so per the safety label) and the other with no pressure. Haven't tried tracing the lines yet, was wondering if its a case of shocks and bags, or perhaps each shock has its on fill port? Or could the one thats reading empty be for the front forks system (appears dead, wondered if it was usual to disconnect that when you convert to trike) which seemed a little harsh on the trip home. If anyone has the documentation for the "no longer available" older Venture GLX1300 Motortrike conversion and can confirm for me, I'd appreciate knowing. Since they don't give out their install instructions to us mere mortals, and it being the weekend before I can try calling their main number.

 

Having not had Ventures before, nothing to compare to in terms of ride. Seems to transmit every bump to my rather generously endowed fundament, but hoping that gets better with getting the air system sorted out. Will also check front and rear tire pressures - read somewhere 40psi for the front, and 24 to 25 for the back is the usuals.

 

Other than that, only things I've found so far is the temp gauge doesn't register (but the fans did kick on) and I've got a lot of rattle. Figure I'll go over the trike and anything that seems loose will get tightened up, and that will also let me check and grease electrical connectors, soft hose check, etc.

 

And I know.....PICTURES.

 

Glenn in Tucson

[Jayceesfolly]

Glenn:

Can't help you with the trike part but the temp gauge not working is a common problem on this model bike. The sensor wire has come off the mounting stud on the sending unit. Sending unit is behind the right side radiator cover (chrome cover with yellow reflector attached). There is a green or blue wire (can't remember which color) with a bullet connector on the end. The connector loses it's grip and falls off the sending unit. Look for the loose wire near the sending unit and then squeeze the bullet connector slightly and push back on the stud on the sending unit. There is a write up and pics of this problem on the Forum somewhere but can't locate it at this moment.

 

Jim

[tucson_sailors]

Found the wire on the driver side right, underneath the fairing. Single bullet connector. Removed, and then pressed in a bit and then pushed back on. Still no gauge. Will get a test wire to a 12v source with a 100ohm resister so I don't pop the gauge if its not already done so. Also noted that I didn't get the fans this time when I took it fora test spin, but when I jumpered the connection they popped on. Found a thread about a replacement thermosender that can be fitted that pops at 180, may just replace and see what I get, being in AZ and our summers are hellishly hot for bikes.

 

I'm going from the idea that the bike has had no prior maintenance since 1997 when the MT rear end was installed (last and only receipt in the owners manual) so gonna be tracking down anything that ain't working over the next few weekends. Controller for the CLASS doesn't respond to presses on the buttons - would the E4 be a full size on the display or a little tiny thing in the corner? Rattle seems to be a combination of bad plastics - took them all off, will be fixing tabs, etc. and possible collector/muffler rattle. It's also idling a bit high at around 1400 once it warms up, so after a couple more doses of seafoam in the gas, I'll see about a carb teardown and resync.

 

Lots to do, not enough weekends.

 

Glenn in Tucson

[Pegasus1300]

Since yours is a Royale there will be no schrader valve for the front fork,it will be connected directly thru the CLASS system. That system only works when the ignition key is in the acc position.Also you would normaly put it on the center stand but that is moot now. As to the CLASS it may have been disabled during the change over or it may just not work due to age. They are notorious for having cold solder joints that fail over time. Solder gun and a magnifying glass will fix this. You will have to trace out the lines, your schrader valves may go only to the shocks. The front fork has a maximum of 8 lbs anything more will blow the seals. Your fork springs are probably toast by this time so look into a set of Progressives .

[steamer]

Can't help much with the bike, but I also have a Motortrike conversion on my 99. Some of the older kits had coil over shocks only. air bag's where added to later models. Some owners added the air bags later. maybe this is what you have. Just look under the rear of the bike, look for 2 black air bladders about 8" long, one on each side of the axle just behind the shocks. That Schrader valve with 60lbs on it is probably for the air bag's. If so, you have way to much air in them. Try 25lbs and see if that softens up the ride.

[tucson_sailors]

Can't help much with the bike, but I also have a Motortrike conversion on my 99. Some of the older kits had coil over shocks only. air bag's where added to later models. Some owners added the air bags later. maybe this is what you have. Just look under the rear of the bike, look for 2 black air bladders about 8" long, one on each side of the axle just behind the shocks. That Schrader valve with 60lbs on it is probably for the air bag's. If so, you have way to much air in them. Try 25lbs and see if that softens up the ride.

 

Will do. Had a quick look the other night, and only saw the shocks, but will look now that I've got light. I'll check the CLASS system on ACC that was also mentioned and see if I can get a display. 60lbs is at the high end of whats on the MT label inside the trunk, but I'll try bringing it down and seeing if it "de-harshes" the ride a bit. What I'm wondering is if I only have the shocks, if they made it right and left side? I've never seen air shocks that didn't split between off of one fill port. Odd design if they did. I'll probably retrofit the air bags, just need to puzzle out the mounting for the MT shell to be able to see the ladder, shocks, mounts, etc. correctly.

 

Glenn

Edited December 2, 2014 by tucson_sailors

[tucson_sailors]

I have no CLASS, apparently. Although my wife has told me that for years, prior to getting the VR. Popped the panel, and found the connectors have no wire going to them, and I don't see any dangling quick-connectors. The "PSI" in the top right corner must be something thats screen printed on the LCD (like the box on the CMS) so thats what I thought might have been the error code. Nope. This leads me to believe they disabled that when they did the trike conversion, and the front shraeder valve may indeed route to something that was on the front forks. I'll inflate to 8psi using a hand pump and see if the front forks bounce less. I guess as I keep going through the bike I'll look for whereever the pump should be mounted and see if its possible to put it back to rights somehow.

 

Also found what looks like a battery tender connection in that space in the fairing, just next to the coolant fill tank. Guess it's always an....(wait for it) AD...VENTURE with a new bike. (Yes, I'm a low creature of ill intent and horrible puns.) there's a dude up in Phoenix with 3 VR's 83/86/87 for parts and I may source out the CLASS pump and wiring if I don't happen to have it. Also the lower fairing plastics and a collector.

 

Glenn in Tucson

[tucson_sailors]

And some pictures, in case anyone is interested.

 

 

[Jayceesfolly]

The CLASS air pump is located under the rear trunk, under a black plastic cover.

[tucson_sailors]

The CLASS air pump is located under the rear trunk, under a black plastic cover.

 

Just pulled the seat and tracedthe lines on the air ports. One is indeed for both of the rear shocks (the one with 60), and one line snakes forward (the one with zilch pressure) towards the front of the trike. I also found the connector for the CLASS controller when I pulled the false tank. So I have manual only. I'll have to pickup a hand pump so I don't blow the seals (if still good, no leaky oil on the forks) when I air it up to 8psi to test with. I expect that the class compressor was removed when they put on the trike rear end, since it wouldn't be needed.

 

Also found all the intercom wiring also under the false tank area - aftermarket stereo was installed, and replaced both the CB and Radio. Think I'll remove the control from the left handlebar, no need to keep it there if its not connected to anything. Pulled the air filer and airbox, extremely filthy with oil. Is there supposed to be a filter on the inside of the airbox to try to at least capture some of the crankcase oil vapor, or is it just meant to foul the inside of the box?

 

Dark coming, gotta go put stuff away and throw the cover back on. Darn these early nights.

 

Glenn in Tucson

[Marcarl]

Just pulled the seat and tracedthe lines on the air ports. One is indeed for both of the rear shocks (the one with 60), and one line snakes forward (the one with zilch pressure) towards the front of the trike. I also found the connector for the CLASS controller when I pulled the false tank. So I have manual only. I'll have to pickup a hand pump so I don't blow the seals (if still good, no leaky oil on the forks) when I air it up to 8psi to test with. I expect that the class compressor was removed when they put on the trike rear end, since it wouldn't be needed.

 

Also found all the intercom wiring also under the false tank area - aftermarket stereo was installed, and replaced both the CB and Radio. Think I'll remove the control from the left handlebar, no need to keep it there if its not connected to anything. Pulled the air filer and airbox, extremely filthy with oil. Is there supposed to be a filter on the inside of the airbox to try to at least capture some of the crankcase oil vapor, or is it just meant to foul the inside of the box?

 

Dark coming, gotta go put stuff away and throw the cover back on. Darn these early nights.

 

Glenn in Tucson

 

Oil in the air box is from having too much oil in the crankcase. Oils level should be no more than 1\2 way up the sight glass or it will be sucked up into the airbox.

[Prairiehammer]

I'll inflate to 8psi using a hand pump and see if the front forks bounce less.

 

Glenn in Tucson

 

Glenn, the stock Venture Royale CLASS had manual settings and automatic settings for Low, Medium, High. Depressing the Auto Low button resulted in 11 psi for the front forks. Auto Medium equaled 14 psi and Auto High translated to 17 psi. Considering that the Venture trike weighs substantially more than the stock Venture, I would probably use 17 psi on your forks to prevent bottoming. Paul is incorrect when he says not to use more than 8 psi on the forks. Yamaha recommends a minimum of 11 psi and a maximum of 17 psi.

[tucson_sailors]

Glenn, the stock Venture Royale CLASS had manual settings and automatic settings for Low, Medium, High. Depressing the Auto Low button resulted in 11 psi for the front forks. Auto Medium equaled 14 psi and Auto High translated to 17 psi. Considering that the Venture trike weighs substantially more than the stock Venture, I would probably use 17 psi on your forks to prevent bottoming. Paul is incorrect when he says not to use more than 8 psi on the forks. Yamaha recommends a minimum of 11 psi and a maximum of 17 psi.

 

Noted. And I expect the difference is only going to be a few pumps since there isn't that much volume in the two fork tubes. I'm enjoying the teardown, but nowhere near as much as I would enjoy actually *riding*. Went to the local yammarhammer dealer and got prices on a replacement air filter, as well as the temp sender and fan sensor. Ouch. Will be looking for alterhate (uni, etc) on the air filter, and at least one of the senders has a generic automotive alternative that was about 1/3 of quoted priced. Since the trike has been frankensteined (or is that Fronkensteened?) in the past, not gonna feel bad about using non OEM parts.

 

More tomorrow as I get to have fun with decent weather and more clean and find. Sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner and the non-airbox idle smoothed out somewhat, but need to get the restrictor factor back in place and listen to the engine again. As has been mentioned without the airbox it'll idle, but any throttle and its just on the edge of dying. Guess the engineers were pretty darn serious about the air/fuel ratio.

 

Glenn in Tucson

[Prairiehammer]

Glenn, the stock Venture Royale CLASS had manual settings and automatic settings for Low, Medium, High. Depressing the Auto Low button resulted in 11 psi for the front forks. Auto Medium equaled 14 psi and Auto High translated to 17 psi. Considering that the Venture trike weighs substantially more than the stock Venture, I would probably use 17 psi on your forks to prevent bottoming. Paul is incorrect when he says not to use more than 8 psi on the forks. Yamaha recommends a minimum of 11 psi and a maximum of 17 psi.

 

A snippet from the Yamaha Service Manual:

Note that the maximum (manually adjusted) is even more at 21 psi.

Unless you replace the front stock (undoubtedly fatigued) springs with Progressive®, I would experiment with the higher pressures. The OEM front forks are notorious for bottoming out when too little air is used. In your situation, I would consider using Progressive springs AND air.

[tucson_sailors]

Ordered a set of 1111-12 progressives and air and oil filters and the fan temp sender. Can't find the part number for an aftermarket temp gauge sender, but so long as the fans kick on, I may go to an actual capillary tube style temp gauge. Since I don't have the cb or class system, I could route some new gauges down there and leave the original cluster alone.

 

Should be here within a week or so. Since I can't work on the trike during the week, as long as parts show up by the weekend, should be able to put some quality time in. I'll fiddle with the ABS plastics during the week, as I can do that indoors.

 

Glenn in Tucson

 

A snippet from the Yamaha Service Manual:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95682[/ATTACH]

Note that the maximum (manually adjusted) is even more at 21 psi.

Unless you replace the front stock (undoubtedly fatigued) springs with Progressive®, I would experiment with the higher pressures. The OEM front forks are notorious for bottoming out when too little air is used. In your situation, I would consider using Progressive springs AND air.

[tucson_sailors]

Minor update. Got my fox shock air pump in, and inflated the front valve to 20psi. Its been holding over the last couple of days. Also got my progressives in, but will hold off on installing them till I see ride quality with just the air to have a comparison. Also got my Uni filter and some other small parts in. Now if God will cooperate with decent weather on the weekends, I may get some wrenching done.

 

Glenn in Tucson

[Brenda H]

And some pictures, in case anyone is interested.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95618[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95619[/ATTACH]

 

Nice bike! Finally!! A 1st Gen. I could ride! I'm too short for the 2 wheel stock version, darn it!