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Posted

I just had my A$$ handed to me by making bad decisions on electrical connectors. I used bullet crimp (red,blue,yellow) connectors on a VN750 and had horrible frustrating results. So, I want to learn about replacing the pins, male and female, inside electrical connectors. I don't even know how to determine what size I need. 2.8, 4.2, 6.3 etc.. A, B, C, D etc as well... I also need help on buying a respectable crimping tool.. Heres one I found, http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/mtnc48.html What do you think? Please give me your knowledge or web pages to look at to get me started..

Posted

Yup I dislike the bullet type unless thats the OEM type like on signals etc. I just will simply not use the guillotine scotch lock type. Sometimes its all you can use, but sooner or later they will come back to haunt you.

Posted
Yup I dislike the bullet type unless thats the OEM type like on signals etc. I just will simply not use the guillotine scotch lock type. Sometimes its all you can use, but sooner or later they will come back to haunt you.

So did you buy the proper equipment to make OEM type connections and chalk it up as lesson learned? Thats what I'm trying to do.

Posted

I have "hacked" repairs for years. Some because I had to and some because at the time I didnt know any better. LOL The crimping is not an art, but it is definitely a learned skill. I just bought a new "automatic" stripper as I am requiring one more and it speeds my process up a little. for the average fellow the plier things that come in a basic butt connector, wire end kit will serve well for years. Mine has. A simple crimper like this will work for years. You can find them with a larger assortment of crimps I think at auto parts store or harbor freight if you go there.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
I also need help on buying a respectable crimping tool.. Heres one I found, Quick Change Ratcheting Crimper Kit SO2676-B What do you think? Please give me your knowledge or web pages to look at to get me started..

 

Ratcheting crimpers are great but that one is a little pricey...... You'll get a much better looking and reliable connection using a ratcheting crimper than those simple "do-it-all" plier type crimpers. I've pierced the insulation sometimes and sometimes ended up getting a loose one with the pliers. The ratcheting one won't let you do those things and it will last as long as you need it to, unless maybe you're in business re-wiring cars and bikes, which it didn't sound like you were. As I said the link you gave has a pricey crimper but I bought this one from Harbor Freight for $15 and it works great:

 

Ratcheting Crimper

Posted

The eBay and HF crimpers are ok in a pinch. The more expensive one you originally listed is much better and will crimp more types of terminals. Different types of terminals need a different crimp. There is no such thing as one crimper to do it all. The ratcheting ones are by far the best because they will always apply the same pressure to the crimp, so once adjusted correctly, every crimp will be perfect. The pliers type it is easy to get to much or to little pressure from crimp to crimp. I have worked on many electrical issues that came down to a bad crimp from a pliers type crimper.

Posted

Where practical in high current situations, I replace connectors with soldered joints. One such joint is the stator connectors.

Back in the 'old' days, all joints were soldered, and connectors were developed to speed assembly at the factory. The connectors were never designed for lengthy service life............ and still are'nt

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Posted

I couldn't agree more. I may crimp a connector to reduce it's size to fit the plug however I will "tin" the crimp with rosencore (electrical) solder. Copper will oxide (turn green) over time from just moisture in the air and develop a poor connection. I also use dielectric grease on all my connectors. Have I gone over the whole bike to do this, no. But over the years as I have replaced, rewired, repaired things it's how I do it. I've only had one electrical problem on the road where the PO crimped the passing lamp hot to the headlight. It was loose and vibrated where the lights weren't reliable. They are now much brighter and a direct run with 10ga via a 30amp relay from the battery. I have 4 such relays installed (Stebel horn, Ignition (key was hot), running lights).

Posted

It does take a developed touch on the crimp type pliers to get a good connection. Squeezing for all its worth is not allways a better connection.

Posted
I couldn't agree more. I may crimp a connector to reduce it's size to fit the plug however I will "tin" the crimp with rosencore (electrical) solder. Copper will oxide (turn green) over time from just moisture in the air and develop a poor connection.

 

I used to do this but then started to believe the mechanical crimp must somehow be better since I saw that so often.

Not soldering also satisfied my desire to be a little lazy about it but I may have to revisit that.

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