Bluechrome Posted October 27, 2014 #1 Posted October 27, 2014 Hi I have read many posts about fitting these springs but would appreciate confirmation of the following steps: With the forks compressed add oil to 5.5" from top. Then lift the bike to extend the forks and: - drop in the springs - add the thin steel washer supplied - add the PVC spacer (32mm) (Progressive note 05 for a Venture Std - 'spacer required is furnished with springs') - add the hollowed out cap (adds another 3mm) - add the screw-in the Bolt Cap. I also read a post that said the ideal was a total length of 22". Is that the best length and if so, i guess I need to shorten the PVC spacers to fit? I am using parts from Progressive Suspension (11-1112) on a 1987 VENTURE STD. I ride solo (250lb). BTW my little drain screws at the bottom of the forks seem to leak oil - what gaskets/washers should I be using with these little screws? Thanks for the help, it is much appreciated.
syscrusher Posted October 28, 2014 #2 Posted October 28, 2014 On my 1993 I didn't use the spacer from the Progressive set because it wasn't much different from the set that was in the forks. If your question is about what order to install the stack take a look at the fork seal replacement thread in the 1st Gen Tech Library. Just lift the bike from the start and use 13.5 oz of fork oil in each tube.
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted October 28, 2014 #3 Posted October 28, 2014 Just lift the bike from the start and use 13.5 oz of fork oil in each tube. This is what I did on my 86, I did put the spacer in and the only time I ever bottomed those shocks out again was in some very aggressive rider training exercises but only a couple of bumps.
Bluechrome Posted November 3, 2014 Author #4 Posted November 3, 2014 Hi This weekend I put the Progressive springs in. I had to leave out the original hollowed-out caps as the PVC spacer OD is too big to fit inside the cap. The springs went in, followed by a washer and the PVC spacer and then the screw-in cap. It took a bit of pressure to get the caps the screw in but it was managable. I havent had the bike on the road but it certainly does not feel as though it will bottom out as before - even without air. Thanks for your help. Bluechrome
Prairiehammer Posted November 3, 2014 #5 Posted November 3, 2014 Hi This weekend I put the Progressive springs in. I had to leave out the original hollowed-out caps as the PVC spacer OD is too big to fit inside the cap. The springs went in, followed by a washer and the PVC spacer and then the screw-in cap. It took a bit of pressure to get the caps the screw in but it was managable. I havent had the bike on the road but it certainly does not feel as though it will bottom out as before - even without air. Thanks for your help. Bluechrome Most have found the the spacer is not needed, in fact the 'hollowed out cap' offers just about perfectly the recommended preload. I would open it back up, remove the PVC spacer and install the 'hollowed out cap'.
lsutley Posted November 4, 2014 #6 Posted November 4, 2014 I laid out the OEM components along side the Progressive spacer and found that the resulting spring compression would be nearly identical. I liked the thought of using metal instead of plastic components and didn't use the Progressive spacer. The amount of force needed to reinstall the spring caps was not what I might call moderate; I don't look forward to removing them for an oil change when the anti-dive block-off plates are installed this winter. My rig is heavy with the Motorvation Formula II sidecar attached and have had no issues when not using additional air pressure assistance.
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