diversity48 Posted October 24, 2014 #1 Posted October 24, 2014 After reading all the similar replies on similar brake light issues, I'm still confused about my situation. Maybe an electrics guru can solve my dilemma. First of all, my 86 Royale has been sitting for awhile (2-3 months) while I went on vacation and few other things. Anyway, when the bike is turned on, the brake light is on, or at least appears to be. Now, here's my question: with the rear brake switch disconnected, should the brake light still be on? I had a problem last year with the front switch and ended up replacing the whole thing. I think I got the last new one in existence from a dealer in California. So, at least for now, I've eliminated the front switch. There is a plastic nut on the rear switch that appears to mount it to a frame tab down near the rear brake cylinder. So far, no success in getting it off. But I did disconnect the wires at the connector. Even with it disconnected, the light still appears to be on. Any suggestions?
naturbar Posted October 24, 2014 #2 Posted October 24, 2014 Disconnect the battery... If the light is still on....get rid of the bike, it's possessed. On a more serious note, I'm sure someone will pitch in with some helpful advice .... Good luck.
djh3 Posted October 25, 2014 #3 Posted October 25, 2014 One at a time disconnect the switch at the front brake. If light goes out you found it. If not reconnect and discon the rear and see if it goes out. If it will not go out with one of the switches discon I have to belive you have a chaffed wire in the system.
dingy Posted October 25, 2014 #4 Posted October 25, 2014 If you unplugged rear switch & brake stayed lit, the front switch contact in the brake circuit is most likely not opening when it should. See partial schematic picture attached. Link below shows how to disassemble brake switch & clean. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42720 Gary
djh3 Posted October 25, 2014 #5 Posted October 25, 2014 Picture below shows how to disassemble switch
Neil86 Posted October 25, 2014 #6 Posted October 25, 2014 Is there any change using the front brake or the light is definitely full brightness. You can test at the unhooked yellow wire for the voltage (vs a good ground) in the brake light circuit. As mentioned disconnecting front switch eliminates the switches then if still getting voltage you can focus on other stuff...CMS issue, antidive relay, ground issue on one tail light socket etc.
diversity48 Posted October 30, 2014 Author #7 Posted October 30, 2014 finally figured out the problem with my brakelight. it was indeed the front brake switch, but not in the wiring. I readjusted the little screw (with locknut) between the lever and a switch activating the brake light. loosen the locknut, then back the screw out a bit, then screw it in til the brake light goes out when the lever is released. lock the nut in place and its done! hopefully, it won't need adjustment for another 30 years.
Neil86 Posted October 30, 2014 #8 Posted October 30, 2014 That adjustment is actually the free play adjustment for the brake lever. Are you sure the switch is fully seated in the lever housing?
diversity48 Posted October 30, 2014 Author #9 Posted October 30, 2014 good question, neil86. the switch APPEARS to be seated. I wasn't even aware of this adjustment until I played around with the brake lever and noticed that the brake light went out when I pushed the lever forward. since the bike is still partially apart, I haven't ridden it yet...plan on getting it together and taking it for a spin today, to see if the adjustment holds. at least for now, it's fixed.
Neil86 Posted October 30, 2014 #10 Posted October 30, 2014 The free play is to ensure the brake is not partially applied with lever at rest....otherwise they can overheat on the road. Easiest check on the switch is to gently pull on it to see if it remains latched.
Flyinfool Posted October 30, 2014 #11 Posted October 30, 2014 I had a similar issue on my 88. It finally boiled down to the Master cylinder that the switch slides into was worn. This allowed the switch to push out a few thou more than it is supposed to. I could not get enough by adjusting that free play screw so I had to use a piece of wire to tie the switch up so that it stays in the correct position. Unless you are really looking for it, you will never see that little wire. Some day when I get my TIG welder I will replace the metal that is worn off the master cylinder to fix it permanently and properly.
Neil86 Posted October 30, 2014 #12 Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) There also should be a compression spring in the lever that pushes it fully out. You don't want to use the freeplay adjustment to force the lever out. Check out item 7 on the parts list....is the spring missing? http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ1300DS/HANDLE%20SWITCH%20LEVER/parts.html Edited October 30, 2014 by Neil86 wrong link
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