Condor Posted October 10, 2014 #1 Posted October 10, 2014 Several members have replaced their fuse panels with ATC types. I thought for sure someone would have written something up for the Tech section, but alas, I couldn't find a thing when I looked. Anyone have a link to a post that has a reference to a 6 way ATC panel with a ground?? The only types I could find sans ground... Any help would be appreciated....
Peder_y2k Posted October 10, 2014 #2 Posted October 10, 2014 Why do you need the ground lug? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
Prairiehammer Posted October 10, 2014 #3 Posted October 10, 2014 Why do you need the ground lug? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA At any rate here is the thread about my fuse block upgrade, Jack. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the negative post of the battery to a terminal block in which all the terminal screws were joined with a brass bus. This ground terminal block became my way of grounding all the accessories leads without piling those leads onto the negative post of the battery.
Condor Posted October 10, 2014 Author #4 Posted October 10, 2014 (edited) At any rate here is the thread about my fuse block upgrade, Jack. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the negative post of the battery to a terminal block in which all the terminal screws were joined with a brass bus. This ground terminal block became my way of grounding all the accessories leads without piling those leads onto the negative post of the battery. Thanks Kev... I did find your post a little bit ago. Nice job...and complicated... I just wanted to replace the oem box with an atc style. Kinda slide one out and the other one in. Problem is I'm having a heck of a time finding anything like it for less than $40 bucks. I even found another post with an exact replacement. The post was in 2011 and he picked the box up from O'Reillys, and it had the part number. So went over and they didn't know what the 'H' I was talking about. I may have to visit West Marine and bite the bullet?? BTW this is kinda what I've been after... Edited October 10, 2014 by Condor
Prairiehammer Posted October 10, 2014 #5 Posted October 10, 2014 Jack, do a search on eBay for 'ATC fuse block' and find nearly 300 choices. The one that is closest to the one I used for the primary fuse block (to replace the five fuse OEM block) is here for $15. And it even included six fuses! I didn't check more, but I suppose you could find one on eBay or Amazon even cheaper. If you are looking for the 'square' Buss type with the common hot post (like I used for my secondary accessory fuse block) there are some of those too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATC-ATO-6-way-Standard-Side-Terminal-Fuse-Block-With-Six-Pack-Of-Fuses-/351186620616?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item51c45a90c8&vxp=mtr
lsutley Posted October 10, 2014 #6 Posted October 10, 2014 I am using a Bussmann marine ATC fuse block for the basis of the 86 rewiring project. All the wires go in from the underside and the panel will hold several styles of relays as well as fuses. All the wires use grommets and the cover is gasketed to keep out any moisture. The blocks can be purchased with a power buss or independently serviced spaces. This has been an interesting project and unfortunately keeps expanding each time there is a new option to explore. I hope to have this operational by next spring.
Condor Posted October 10, 2014 Author #7 Posted October 10, 2014 Why do you need the ground lug? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA I haven't got a clue Pete. After running an ohms meter on the two screw lugs at the front of the oem box I find they go nowhere. They're just coupling lugs. I'll have to go out and look at one of the other bikes and see what gives.... I am using a Bussmann marine ATC fuse block for the basis of the 86 rewiring project. All the wires go in from the underside and the panel will hold several styles of relays as well as fuses. All the wires use grommets and the cover is gasketed to keep out any moisture. The blocks can be purchased with a power buss or independently serviced spaces. This has been an interesting project and unfortunately keeps expanding each time there is a new option to explore. I hope to have this operational by next spring. That looks like one hell of a project. Looks like it's going to be interesting once it's done. I'm a big believer in the KISS formulae myself. Thanks for the pics...
Prairiehammer Posted October 11, 2014 #9 Posted October 11, 2014 On the stock fuse block, those two plated screws are for accessory power taps. One would attach any accessory that one would like powered by (and protected by) the ACC fuse to those 'lugs'. One screw is ground. The other is hot from the ACC fuse.
yamagrl Posted October 11, 2014 #10 Posted October 11, 2014 Jack, Here is what I did to Big Red when I had him apart for 2nd gear. If you would like to see it in "real life" then just show up at Squidley's SE Texas Fall MD. I used an 8 way ATC from Ebay for $12. It comes with a cover. You probably have something similar on order. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Tech-E-373805-ATC-ATO-Fuse-Block-8-Blade-/111036537007?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19da4b18af I also lowered the battery about 3/4 inch. With the TCI and boost sensor on top of the air box there is sufficient room to drop the battery. I simply used two straight brackets. It also required a little bit of metal bending to make everything cooperate. I think it was worth the effort to gain a little more room on top. The cover actually fits. With the 8 way I was able to facilitate a couple of extra accessories. Note the loose pigtail on the left that jumpers the accessory power from 5 to 6 & 7. 7 is the loose pigtail (unused). At the moment 8 is still free. I insulated the spade connectors with heatshrink and used one of the mount screws for a ground lug with a single wire to the negative battery terminal. It's not visible in this pic, but its there. I also added a resistor to the battery sensor wire. If you need the ohms and watts let me know. It's not visible either. It took me all day long to do all of this. I'm sure that's worth a chuckle since most of you guys could probably do it in an hour! Heather
cimmer Posted October 11, 2014 #11 Posted October 11, 2014 here is the company I purchased my fuse block from: http://www.waytekwire.com/products/ They have a large selection of items. Rick F.
saddlebum Posted October 11, 2014 #12 Posted October 11, 2014 Thanks Kev... I did find your post a little bit ago. Nice job...and complicated... I just wanted to replace the oem box with an atc style. Kinda slide one out and the other one in. Problem is I'm having a heck of a time finding anything like it for less than $40 bucks. I even found another post with an exact replacement. The post was in 2011 and he picked the box up from O'Reillys, and it had the part number. So went over and they didn't know what the 'H' I was talking about. I may have to visit West Marine and bite the bullet?? BTW this is kinda what I've been after... I picked one up just like the one in your pic for $5 from UAP
Prairiehammer Posted October 11, 2014 #13 Posted October 11, 2014 I am using a Bussmann marine ATC fuse block for the basis of the 86 rewiring project. All the wires go in from the underside and the panel will hold several styles of relays as well as fuses. All the wires use grommets and the cover is gasketed to keep out any moisture. The blocks can be purchased with a power buss or independently serviced spaces. This has been an interesting project and unfortunately keeps expanding each time there is a new option to explore. I hope to have this operational by next spring. Les, where is the battery? And the ignition coils?
Condor Posted October 11, 2014 Author #14 Posted October 11, 2014 On the stock fuse block, those two plated screws are for accessory power taps. One would attach any accessory that one would like powered by (and protected by) the ACC fuse to those 'lugs'. One screw is ground. The other is hot from the ACC fuse. Thanks Kevin. Clears a lot of things up. I went back and took a look at a pic I took in the Battery Warning bypass write up in the tech section, and could see the pigtail coming off the side of the accessory fuse clip to the screw. And.... if I'da known I would have connected the bypass mod there instead of soldering it to the clip. But back in the day, bypassing the warning light was new stuff, created when we started going to AGM Batts. I gotta add that physically those screws do not contact anything. They're just a place that make it convenient to attach new play toys. Jack, Here is what I did to Big Red when I had him apart for 2nd gear. If you would like to see it in "real life" then just show up at Squidley's SE Texas Fall MD. I used an 8 way ATC from Ebay for $12. It comes with a cover. You probably have something similar on order. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Tech-E-373805-ATC-ATO-Fuse-Block-8-Blade-/111036537007?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19da4b18af I also lowered the battery about 3/4 inch. With the TCI and boost sensor on top of the air box there is sufficient room to drop the battery. I simply used two straight brackets. It also required a little bit of metal bending to make everything cooperate. I think it was worth the effort to gain a little more room on top. The cover actually fits. With the 8 way I was able to facilitate a couple of extra accessories. Note the loose pigtail on the left that jumpers the accessory power from 5 to 6 & 7. 7 is the loose pigtail (unused). At the moment 8 is still free. I insulated the spade connectors with heatshrink and used one of the mount screws for a ground lug with a single wire to the negative battery terminal. It's not visible in this pic, but its there. I also added a resistor to the battery sensor wire. If you need the ohms and watts let me know. It's not visible either. It took me all day long to do all of this. I'm sure that's worth a chuckle since most of you guys could probably do it in an hour! Heather That is one very nice job Heather. I don't care how long it took you to do it.... here is the company I purchased my fuse block from: http://www.waytekwire.com/products/ They have a large selection of items. Rick F. Rick, I was told about that place this morning when Rocket and I were on the phone. Too late to buy from now, but in the future it's a go to..... I picked one up just like the one in your pic for $5 from UAP Gotta Link??? Thanks for all the input everyone. It's much appreciated. Now I think someone needs to write up a tech article. There's nothing in the tech section now, and it would be great to have it all in one place. These 1stGen's are getting older and more and more of them are going to need the ATC mod.... soon...
stanG Posted October 12, 2014 #15 Posted October 12, 2014 Here is what I did a couple years back http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68869 "Have fun out there" stanG
lsutley Posted October 12, 2014 #16 Posted October 12, 2014 Les, where is the battery? And the ignition coils? Here are some pictures of some other "opportunities" that have caused this project to go into overtime. The OEM coil package has been scrapped in favor of Honda CBR1000 COP's. The OEM TCI has been replaced with the Inigtech unit from Gary. The R/R is a new MOSFET unit from Earl, that is relocated to the side of the electrical component tray and the battery relocates to the sidecar. All of the original main and satellite fuses, with the exception of a large dual 40 amp main that is visible to the right of the Bussmann panel, have been relocated to the Bussmann panel. Any relay that is available in an ATC compatible configuration is on the way to the Bussmann block. I bought the tools necessary to fabricate the needed battery cables and those needed to reconfigure the OEM connectors to the Delphi waterproof style. The "opportunities" are endless and I need to draw the line on any more modifications, if I am ever to finish this project.
Condor Posted October 12, 2014 Author #17 Posted October 12, 2014 Here is what I did a couple years back http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68869 "Have fun out there" stanG Nice sanitary job Stan. As a side note, a lot of folks have written about lowering the battery to supply clearance for the new ATC Fuse Block. Just wanted to toss this out... a 2ndGen 20L battery will work in a 1stGen with a little gaposis on either end, and Styrofoam will work to fill the gaps, and it' sits lower than the OEM 18L by about an inch. The battery was absent when I started messing with this bike, and not thinking I tossed in an extra 20L wet cell I had from the Cody trip. Didn't notice... or think... right away, but noticed the battery strap was way too long... So clearance isn't going to be a problem...
KISA Posted October 13, 2014 #18 Posted October 13, 2014 lsutley, how you connected TPS a sensor? Interests interaction with gates.
lsutley Posted October 13, 2014 #19 Posted October 13, 2014 lsutley, how you connected TPS a sensor? Interests interaction with gates. If you are referring to a Throttle Position Sensor, I am not using one? The TCI is connected to a vacuum sensor that regulates the spark timing.
etohio Posted October 14, 2014 #20 Posted October 14, 2014 Don't know if this is what you are looking for but I posted this some time ago. Since then it has work perfectly and I am still very pleased with it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74688
etohio Posted October 14, 2014 #21 Posted October 14, 2014 Looks like this should work. http://www.wiringproducts.com/8-circuit-ato-atc-fuse-block-side-entry.html#prettyPhoto
painterman67 Posted October 14, 2014 #22 Posted October 14, 2014 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3762&title=first-genfuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 and skydoc is a member vender.........little more than $40 though but not much
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