Kc9ojn Posted October 7, 2014 #1 Posted October 7, 2014 One Should not head butt ones Motorcycle....... Rent puller from auto parts store of choice..... Check Prep area ................. Check Drain oil ................... Check pull small cover..............Check Start to pull big cover See gears, freak (check book and calm down) Check Pull large cover..............Check look for large crescent wrench to hold drum.....Can't find wrench so go buy wrench.. Stop off and pick up Daughter..... Check hold drum in place and pull bolt at the end of shaft ... Check put Puller in place .... Check grab said wrench to hold puller and find breaker bar .... Woohoo no need to go to Store...Check start cranking on puller .......crank some more ..... look at it cross-eyed...... crank some more...... have bolt snap while cranking and slam head into side of faring under radio .... check calmly get up and ask wife to hold up fingers...... check step away from the old girl( the bike) for the night.... check Starter clutch 1 me 0 PS ..... No plastic was harmed in said head butt.
Angelo Posted October 7, 2014 #2 Posted October 7, 2014 Thanks for putting a smile on my face, hope yours recovers.
Flyinfool Posted October 7, 2014 #3 Posted October 7, 2014 You need to use class 10.9 screws to hold the puller to the flywheel along with high strength washers. When you put in the 3 puller bolts, do not tighten them, they only need to be finger tight, but screwed all the way in for full thread engagement. Otherwise there is a possibility of slamming your head into side of faring under radio........:bang head: There are always great stories associated with pulling the flywheel, and every one is a different but interesting experience. Are you planning to rebuild the starter clutch stock or go with Danos upgrade? Stock you will be back in there doing the same job again, Dano costs a little more but you will not have to do it again. As long as you are in there, take a real close look at the stator for any signs of overheating. If there are any signs of over heating now is a good time to replace it while everything is apart.
icebrrg3rd Posted October 7, 2014 #4 Posted October 7, 2014 on what Jeff (flyinfool) said, quality bolts. Also, once you've cranked it on and nothings moving, a few solid raps with a hammer on the end of the puller worked for me. ****DO NOT POUND ON THE FLYWHEEL!!!**** Oh, and have something for it to land on, I had several layers of cardboard & a towel. Mine went about 2 feet before it hit the ground. -Andrew
Snaggletooth Posted October 8, 2014 #5 Posted October 8, 2014 There are always great stories associated with pulling the flywheel, and every one is a different but interesting experience. Oh yeah. But I'm not going back into that story again today. My bike is still laughing at me over my Dano Engage mod. After a frustrating afternoon of several attempts to remove the rotor with no progress I gave up, had a beer and walked away for the night. When I woke up in the morning I found the rotor and puller laying a couple of feet away from the bike in the pile of packing quilts I had left on the floor. Apparently I left the puller cranked fully down when I gave up. The temp that night had dropped considerably over night and I suppose that and the pressure on the puller played the Ace card while I had my back turned and it just popped off. Nobody ever bought my "Garage Gremlin" story so I'll stick with simple science. None the less....... progress.
Kc9ojn Posted October 8, 2014 Author #6 Posted October 8, 2014 I have talked with Dano already and plan on sending my assembly to him in time, for now I have a parts bike with a good clutch on it, if I could get away from work and family I could be back up and running in a couple hours. Dano's upgrade is well worth the cash and I still plan on doing it when I have the spare cash, the nice thing is I will send him my "spare" assembly to convert only down side is When the next clutch goes I will have to do all this over again, but by then I will have done this project 2 times already and be a pro.
Marcarl Posted October 8, 2014 #7 Posted October 8, 2014 I have talked with Dano already and plan on sending my assembly to him in time, for now I have a parts bike with a good clutch on it, if I could get away from work and family I could be back up and running in a couple hours. Dano's upgrade is well worth the cash and I still plan on doing it when I have the spare cash, the nice thing is I will send him my "spare" assembly to convert only down side is When the next clutch goes I will have to do all this over again, but by then I will have done this project 2 times already and be a pro. Caution!: second time is not nearly as fun as the first time. First time took me 2 weeks, off and on, the second time I hear is a piece of cake.
Flyinfool Posted October 8, 2014 #8 Posted October 8, 2014 CAKE?? Someone mention CAKE? I like cake....... As Marcarl mentioned. Whether it is something with the flywheel having been on there for near 30 years or something that the factory does different, but future removals go comparatively very easy. Your next challenge is getting it back together with no oil leaks. Where the wires come thru is a well known oil leak spot and difficult to get sealed up. What I did was to use brake cleaner to thoroughly clean all oil out of the cloth wire covering on both sides of the rubber plug. Then pulled an inch of wire through the rubber plug and cleaned all of the oil out of that cloth. Goop up the wires with black RTV sealant and work it well into the cloth wire covering. Pull the wires back to their original location in the rubber plug so that you are pulling sealant back into the plug with the wires. Install the whole mess back on the bike using a lot of black RTV all around the rubber plug. That is now one of the only places on my bike that does not leak oil.......
baylensman Posted October 8, 2014 #9 Posted October 8, 2014 Ah yes the second time around is always easier. did the rear discs on my Lincoln a few weeks back the left side took over two hours and three trips to the parts store. the right side took around seven minutes (learning curve). Getting any assembly off a shaft with a "Puller" can be a frustrating experience. couple of tips. Impact on the puller not the item being pulled. Quick hit with a propane (not oxy or MAPP) torch or even a blast from a can of compressed air. temp change does wonders. patience patience patience
Kc9ojn Posted October 10, 2014 Author #10 Posted October 10, 2014 Update Me .... 1 Clutch ..1 As you probably fingered after a quick call to Dano ( thank you, The people on this site/Club is more like it, are great I have talked with 3 personaly now and they all have been so Helpful and encouraging) I have the first starter clutch off will work on the parts bike tomorrow. Things I have learned 1. Be patience, I broke 2 8m class 10 bolts, they were the ones that came with the puller so I am not sure if they were "cheep" bolts or not. 2. Use Good Bolts, I went to the John Deer dealer and got Good class 10.9 bolts. 3. use the cold, sort of goes with patience, Dano mentioned and I remember reading some stories of cranking it down and leaving it over night. After getting done with my JD run and my work for the day I cranked it down good. and Left it until 10:30PM. I took the Dog out and popped the puller on the shaft and wala. 4. that brings me to the final thing I want to reenforce, Tie that thing down LOL give it some room to pop but not let it fly and hit the floor. When that thing let loos, I could tell it would have been at Dano's shop without a box or need for postage. a State away lol. Will keep you all posted and Hope this as well as the other threads will help others keep there Grand Old Girls up and running. I love my First Gen's:080402gudl_prv:
Flyinfool Posted October 10, 2014 #11 Posted October 10, 2014 Isn't it amazing just how far them things kin fly.....
Kc9ojn Posted October 13, 2014 Author #12 Posted October 13, 2014 Well got things put back together and hit the magic button and veroooom, woohooo so I started putting the floor bordes back and checked the shifter. Seems like it is bound I think there is something wrong were the shift shaft goes through the side cover will look more tomorrow but any other ideas that do not include draining all the oil and such would be great.
Marcarl Posted October 13, 2014 #13 Posted October 13, 2014 Well got things put back together and hit the magic button and veroooom, woohooo so I started putting the floor bordes back and checked the shifter. Seems like it is bound I think there is something wrong were the shift shaft goes through the side cover will look more tomorrow but any other ideas that do not include draining all the oil and such would be great. You most likely have the knuckle that is behind the cover in the down position, it should be in the up position. Take the middle gear cover off to check it, and the quickest way to fix it is to take the cover back off again. Common mistake, seeing as the knuckle wants to be in the down position if left to it's own devises.
Kc9ojn Posted October 16, 2014 Author #14 Posted October 16, 2014 Update: Well here is were we are at. Well I am no longer afraid of fixing my starter clutch. I got the starter clutch out of the parts bike and in that proses I dinged up the nut on the drum a bit. I will be sending pics and and talking to Dano about this to see if he can still use this to rebuild it. So I took the clutch out of the good drum from my good bike and this is what I found. If you have read up as you should you will find this is common. http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o190/techee28714/IMG_20141012_131940_520-1.jpg The bolts were also loose. So I took the good clutch and good drum and put them together. http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o190/techee28714/IMG_20141012_134245_178-1.jpg Just an Idea,to keep all the parts together I zip-tied it all. I also used Blue lock-tight. http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o190/techee28714/IMG_20141012_134522_543_1.jpg now for the one of the last steps I missed, as you can see the shifter shaft is in the down Position. As you put the cover back on make sure that the shaft is in the up position as Marcarl said. The other thing I found is when I pulled the clutch's the bolt threads were Odd.http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o190/techee28714/IMG_20141012_132904_883-1.jpg So I used the best out of the ones I had. I have a small leak I need to deal with from the smaller cover so I will be pulling it again and cleaning things. I didn't have the leak the first time I put it all back together so It is prob I just don't have it all pulled together tight but I would rather be safe. She is running top notch and I am on cloud 9. Not only is things running Great I did it my self. Thanks you all. I will have to say, This is the best 12 bucks I have spent in a long time.
Marcarl Posted October 16, 2014 #15 Posted October 16, 2014 The small leak may be coming from the bottom bolt on the middle gear cover, it needs a brass washer on it. It may be worn out, or missing. Sometimes you can get away without it, mostly not. That bolt goes into the bottom of the gearcase so you can drain it.
Kc9ojn Posted October 16, 2014 Author #16 Posted October 16, 2014 Thank you Marcarl, I will check that, I know I put it back in the right spot but I am not sure if it is worn or not. I have read that you can heat the washer up to restore it.
Prairiehammer Posted October 16, 2014 #17 Posted October 16, 2014 Thank you Marcarl, I will check that, I know I put it back in the right spot but I am not sure if it is worn or not. I have read that you can heat the washer up to restore it. Yes, all the copper 'crush washers' on the Venture can be reused (if not deformed too much) by annealing the copper washer. To anneal the washer: heat the washer to cherry red and then quench in water. If not deformed the washers will be reusable. Copper becomes 'work hardened' and may not seal as when new. Annealing returns the copper to a malleable state that will conform to the the case and fastener.
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