1St. Gen. Fairing

[rotordriver]

Can anyone tell me what the 1st. gen. Fairing is made of? I have some fairing mounting tabs to repair would like some advise on what kind of epoxy to use. Or does anyone have an idea how to repair a broken fairing tab.( where you screw the fairing onto the frame)

[cliffno350]

I think I ve read here that it is a pvc plastic and I hve used pcv glue with primer with some success.

[fixit3546]

it is ABS plastic.

 

I prefer a product called Plastex.

 

You can do a search on here and find a lot of info on plastic repair. you can probably find a few links at the bottom of this page as well............

 

here is a link to get you started http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=312

[rotordriver]

Any place in the US to get this stuff other then Canada?

[SilvrT]

There are other brands of this "plastex" .... baiscally if you get a 2 part epoxy designed specifically for plastic and even more specifically for ABS plastic. As long as you buy the right product, the brand shouldn't matter. I got mine from a local auto parts store...it wasn't Plastex but as far as I'm concerned, it works just as well. Can't recall what the brand was at this time tho.

[Yammer Dan]

Devcon Plastic Welder

 

A two part mix at Wally-World.

[Condor]

If the tab is just broken off and you still have it, soak each side with IPS Weld-On 2354 and chemically weld it together. After it's set up take a piece of Fiberglass mat and cut a piece to cover the break and use IPS Weld-On 16 to wet it out with a small brush and it to melt/adhere into the surface. Once it sets up it will be pretty strong, but if you need a bit more do the same thing to the front side. It make a very strong sanitary repair. I found that using a two part product causes the excess to build up and get messy, and the repair depends on the thickness of the product for support. #16 is a much better way to go..... However, that said if the tab has wandered off, a two part is great when building another tab. http://www.ipscorp.com/weldon/selectionguide.html

[Guest Ballgoof]

I have been using plastex today for several cracks and completely broken parts.

So far I have liked how it has worked and seems easy to do.

I purchased a medium size kit that has a peace that can be heated them molded into what ever design is needed. Once it cools I fill it with Plastex then after it sets I remove the mold, reheating the mold with a heat gun or hot hair dryer can help with removal.

 

I will find out how strong the repairs after it is on the bike and subject to use. Hopefully it will work good.

 

 

Guy

[fixit3546]

I have been using plastex today for several cracks and completely broken parts.

So far I have liked how it has worked and seems easy to do.

I purchased a medium size kit that has a peace that can be heated them molded into what ever design is needed. Once it cools I fill it with Plastex then after it sets I remove the mold, reheating the mold with a heat gun or hot hair dryer can help with removal.

 

I will find out how strong the repairs after it is on the bike and subject to use. Hopefully it will work good.

 

 

Guy

 

Guy,You will find that the plastex is stronger by far than anything else you can try. and simpler to work with, and it cures faster.

 

(but i have not tried that stuff Condor mentioned)

[Guest ReinyRooster]

There will be a Plastex demo at the 2008 VentureRider Rally in Kitchener, Ontario for anyone attending who might be interested. I'm sure you will also have the ability to buy some then as well, hopefully at a good price.

[Guest Ballgoof]

OK so far things are going well. With practice I am getting better at making the molds for new tabs.

Of the two ways they show for using this I can do the pour powder then add the liquid in drops just fine but it will take some learning to get the proper technique with the drops in the powder then pick it up with the dropper method.

 

I do however have a nice collection of BB'S now!

 

Guy

 

I bought plastex from here in the black color

http://home.att.net/~g.t.motorsports/store.html

 

Link to video

http://www.plastex.ca/video.asp

 

I am posting these links for information purposes only!

[lonestarmedic]

Believe it or not, I use JB weld to create parts and repair the fairing. I use the putty

for making the tabs then use the 2 part to reinforce them. I also use JB weld spread

into fiberglass cloth to make backings. I clean the area well and then scuff the smooth

surface with sandpaper. I apply the JB weld to the fiberglass then lay it on. Smooth it

out with a tongue depressor and then spread a thin layer over the top. My tabs seem

to be as strong as the rest of the ABS. And the reinforced areas are great. Particularly

behind the hagers for the pouches.

 

JB

[Guest Ballgoof]

I have been a fan of JB weld for a long time. Both the regular and the fast setting versions.

I had not tried it in this application because I did not know if it would chemically melt something.

Good to know that it worked for you.

I am going to see if I can mold replacement pins for my side covers. I see people using screws as pins but I have 2 good pins the broke off flush with the tab.

So I was thinking how about I try to make a bunch of replacement pins for the future that can be glued into place when needed.

 

Guy

[BJB]

If you have the broken off pins, grind a flat top to the pin and drill down through the center. Use a round headed screw and attach the pin to where it broke off. I did this with my 89 and posted pics here on 1st gen tech.

[Guest Ballgoof]

Yes I have the pins and looked at your fix.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19648

 

Looks like it would work very well.

I made a mold of one of the pens the filled it with Plastex.

Now I have another good pin as long as it is tough enough.

I may use you method to secure it though.

Other people might want to try making new pins with plastex.

I will make a few more pins for any future needs.

 

Guy

[Condor]

OK so far things are going well. With practice I am getting better at making the molds for new tabs.

Of the two ways they show for using this I can do the pour powder then add the liquid in drops just fine but it will take some learning to get the proper technique with the drops in the powder then pick it up with the dropper method.

 

I do however have a nice collection of BB'S now!

 

Guy

 

I bought plastex from here in the black color

http://home.att.net/~g.t.motorsports/store.html

 

Link to video

http://www.plastex.ca/video.asp

 

I am posting these links for information purposes only!

 

This is just a suggestion, but why don't you just replace the peg with a ball stud. I picked up a few studs from Black Owl last year, and they are a perfect fit. You can get them from http://www.mcmaster.com/ part #9512K73. All you need to do is drill a 11/32 hole in the peg housing, put a 5/16th nut and flat washer in side and screw the stud in. The stud has a hex base so you can snug it down with an open-end. It take less time than I'm taking to type this. No muss, no fuss, no bother. The stud is stronger than the original.

[lonestarmedic]

These are the way to go!! Grind the ball down a tad and taper towards the top. Sand smooth so it slips through the grommet. Then bore the hole through the mount and use a nut and a bit of blue lock-tite. I could have put in 2 by the time I typed this. Super strong and easy to do.

 

JB