Running Rough, missing/popping

[H2O]

The pickup coils are in the stator cover, the larger cover on the LEFT side of the bike.[ATTACH=CONFIG]94778[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]94777[/ATTACH]

You apparently removed the clutch cover.

 

Lol! Okay. Thanks!

 

I swear the service manual I'm looking at for the XVZ1300 states "Right side" for the two pick up coils.

 

Glad I asked before proceeding!

[Neil86]

There is no reason to remove the covers unless the pickup coils do not test good. The testing is performed at the

connectors, as described earlier in this thread.

 

Because of the low voltage the pickup coils produce....and since you described treating all connections perhaps

there is too much grease on the pickup coil connections.

[Neil86]

Is the tachometer needle bouncing down to zero briefly while still running?

 

You might also while the engine is running test the voltage on the wire crimp on the load side

of the ignition fuse (should be a red/white wire) as the stock fuse clips sometimes overheat and

lose tension on the glass fuses.

 

Are the new plug wires metal core.....with the resistor caps you need low resistance wires.

Edited November 1, 2014 by Neil86

[H2O]

There is no reason to remove the covers unless the pickup coils do not test good. The testing is performed at the

connectors, as described earlier in this thread.

 

Because of the low voltage the pickup coils produce....and since you described treating all connections perhaps

there is too much grease on the pickup coil connections.

 

I did not pull the covers yet.

 

I found the leads coming from the pickup coils (5 wire connector) and according to the service manual's instructions, they checked within parameters, as did the ignition coils on the left side.

 

While I had the yellow modular plugs at the ignition coils apart (left side) I tested for the other end of the plug that I assume comes from the TCI.

Each plug has two wires.

One is showing over 1 meg, and the other I can't get any reading like it's totally open.

Does that mean anything?

[H2O]

Is the tachometer needle bouncing down to zero briefly while still running?

 

You might also while the engine is running test the voltage on the wire crimp on the load side

of the ignition fuse (should be a red/white wire) as the stock fuse clips sometimes overheat and

lose tension on the glass fuses.

 

Are the new plug wires metal core.....with the resistor caps you need low resistance wires.

 

 

I wonder what's considered low resistance? I took a set of regular automotive plug wires, cut the factory ends off and used them with the original plug caps.

Not good? lol

[Neil86]

Automotive wires are suppression wires.....high resistance to prevent interference with the many electronic devices under the hood. The stranded metal core OEM wires will only be an ohm or two without the ends. Combining suppression wires and the resistor caps is way more resistance than the stock ignition can handle.

[H2O]

Automotive wires are suppression wires.....high resistance to prevent interference with the many electronic devices under the hood. The stranded metal core OEM wires will only be an ohm or two without the ends. Combining suppression wires and the resistor caps is way more resistance than the stock ignition can handle.

 

Okay, got it. I have access to high voltage copper wiring used in the electrical industry.

It's rated 15KV AC, but has no shield whatsoever and is about the same diameter (7mm) 14 gauge AWG.

What do you recommend?

[Venturous Randy]

I wonder what's considered low resistance? I took a set of regular automotive plug wires, cut the factory ends off and used them with the original plug caps.

Not good? lol

You can buy automotive copper core wire at most parts stores and make your own,

Randy

Edited November 1, 2014 by Venturous Randy

[H2O]

You can buy automotive copper core wire at most parts stores and make your own,

Randy

 

Like Accel or other high-performance companies?

[Prairiehammer]

Like Accel or other high-performance companies?

 

Any 7mm solid core spark plug wire will work, it doesn't have to be 'high performance'. To avoid potential damage to the electronic ignition from EMI, you must use resistor spark plug caps with solid core wire. You should also retain the corrugated wire 'loom' around the spark plug wire. It is necessary to prevent spark leakage.

 

But, before going to the minor expense and moderate trouble to replace the OEM wires, first try simply cutting ¼" off the OEM wires at each end. This action will remove any corroded conductor that may be at the ends. Some have found making an 'X' on the newly cut wire end surface assists with inserting the wire end onto the sharp prong that is in the caps and the ignition coil wire socket.

 

If you MUST replace the spark plug wires, here is a how to: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81742-Spark-Plug-Wire-Replacement-MK2&highlight=spark+plug+wires

Edited November 1, 2014 by Prairiehammer

[H2O]

Any 7mm solid core spark plug wire will work, it doesn't have to be 'high performance'. To avoid potential damage to the electronic ignition from EMI, you must use resistor spark plug caps with solid core wire. You should also retain the corrugated wire 'loom' around the spark plug wire. It is necessary to prevent spark leakage.

 

But, before going to the minor expense and moderate trouble to replace the OEM wires, first try simply cutting ¼" off the OEM wires at each end. This action will remove any corroded conductor that may be at the ends. Some have found making an 'X' on the newly cut wire end surface assists with inserting the wire end onto the sharp prong that is in the caps and the ignition coil wire socket.

 

If you MUST replace the spark plug wires, here is a how to: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81742-Spark-Plug-Wire-Replacement-MK2&highlight=spark+plug+wires

 

Okay, I already replaced the original plug wires with generic automotive resistive style wires after I went through the fuel system, but before I put the bike back together.

 

Now, after checking the ignition system out again I'm starting to wonder if I should've tried it out with the original plug wires before changing them out?

I just figured they were due and I did it before I saw what flushing the fuel system out and fresh fuel did.

Crap!

Thanks for your assistance.

I'll pick up a good low resistive set of wires tomorrow and change them out while I've got it all apart again and see how that works.

[H2O]

Automotive wires are suppression wires.....high resistance to prevent interference with the many electronic devices under the hood. The stranded metal core OEM wires will only be an ohm or two without the ends. Combining suppression wires and the resistor caps is way more resistance than the stock ignition can handle.

 

Neil, I checked the original plug wires with a meter and they're showing to be good, and almost 0 ohms resistance and appeared to be in good condition so I put them back on.

Engine is still the same. Will start, idles at around 5-6 hundred rpm. Dies when I attempt to give it gas. Removed air box to gain access to TCI and fuel line.

Removed fuel line at carbs and found fuel is flowing good from pump.

 

I can see and access the TCI unit now really easy.

I tested the modular 6 & 8 pin plugs going FROM the TCI again and as before the coils all show good.

 

Is there any way to test the pins on the TCI directly with an ohm meter?

[Prairiehammer]

Neil, Will start, idles at around 5-6 hundred rpm. Dies when I attempt to give it gas. Removed air box to gain access to TCI and fuel line.

 

I am not Neil, but I played him on TV once.

 

Five-six hundred rpm is very slow. Try adjusting the idle speed to an indicated 1000 rpm.

 

The Ventures (because of the CV carbs) are very finicky about a disrupted air intake. Attempting to run the engine while the airbox and filter are removed can be frustrating.

 

Increase the idle speed and properly reinstall the air box with filter and warm the engine. See what the result is.

 

The fact that the bike WILL idle without the 'choke' enrichener applied is good news. Most Ventures with dirty pilot circuits will not idle without the enrichener.

[H2O]

I am not Neil, but I played him on TV once.

 

Five-six hundred rpm is very slow. Try adjusting the idle speed to an indicated 1000 rpm.

 

The Ventures (because of the CV carbs) are very finicky about a disrupted air intake. Attempting to run the engine while the airbox and filter are removed can be frustrating.

 

Increase the idle speed and properly reinstall the air box with filter and warm the engine. See what the result is.

 

The fact that the bike WILL idle without the 'choke' enrichener applied is good news. Most Ventures with dirty pilot circuits will not idle without the enrichener.[/QUO

 

I haven't had to do any idle adjustments.

Each time I've taken this apart the past few weeks trying to track the problem down, it comes back around and runs (and idles) like new for a few miles, then returns to the same symptom.

It's something that comes and goes intermittently.

I'd really like to know if the TCI unit can be tested with a multi-meter.

I found instructions that tell how to take the TCI apart and where to re-solder the connections, but nothing for testing it.

I found a few used TCI units on ebay and I'm just about ready to buy one, if for no other reason, to have a spare.