Seaking Posted October 9, 2014 #26 Posted October 9, 2014 Just a heads up. I just ordered another 2 point sets from for $25.38 ea. Free shipping. A heck of a lot cheaper than anything else on the market. I figure this will take care of any fuel pump problems as long as I'm going to be around riding a Venture. I bet some industrious member could start a business of rebuilding the pumps and sell them for say... $75.00 w/exchange. I'm still not sold on the Mr. Gasket 42S with all the plumbing and adapting you'd have to do to put one in.... Being a lazy sort personally.... Here's the corrected URL for that part from Amazon.. (though our bikes aren't listed on the fitment chart?) [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Universal-Point-Switch-18-4615/dp/B0034ZMVKU/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i]Amazon.com: K&L Supply Universal Fuel Pump Point Switch Kit 18-4615: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/413ZwtRHzdL.@@AMEPARAM@@413ZwtRHzdL[/ame] Amazon acquires it from http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/K-L-Supply-Universal-Fuel-Pump-Point-Switch-Kit-18-p/4606031.htm You yanks have the advantage with Amazon's free shipping.. Not available through Amazon.ca and shipping from either source to the Great White North costs more than the item being shipped.. go figure eh?!
djh3 Posted October 9, 2014 #27 Posted October 9, 2014 Well the bad thing for the rebuild/repair one thing would be you have to charge the guy a core charge. And enough shipping to cover it. So if a new pump is $130 or whatever, your probably in for another $20 shipping. If you sell for $75 + 20 shipping and add in the core charge Oh My!! Unless the fellow would send you the broken one first.
Condor Posted October 9, 2014 #28 Posted October 9, 2014 Well the bad thing for the rebuild/repair one thing would be you have to charge the guy a core charge. And enough shipping to cover it. So if a new pump is $130 or whatever, your probably in for another $20 shipping. If you sell for $75 + 20 shipping and add in the core charge Oh My!! Unless the fellow would send you the broken one first. You could do it the same thing they do on the V-MAX rear end. Double the price, and refund the core charge when they send back the old 'repairable' pump. Shipping shouldn't cost more then $5 buck USPS Flat Priority. The used pump assembly I have weighs less than a pound.. I also bought both the used pump and a level float sensor off eBay for $20 with free shipping. Granted you have to shop.. So if you're into the repair $25 + 5, you should net $45 bucks profit for 30 minutes of work. BTW the cost of a new OEM pump is around $225 - $250, not $130. That's the reason eBay sellers are asking around $100 for a clean used one with no guarantee....
djh3 Posted October 9, 2014 #29 Posted October 9, 2014 Shoot with a new set of points in one I think you could guarantee one for six months. Even though you know its going to fail, it shouldn't be in six months.
Condor Posted October 9, 2014 #30 Posted October 9, 2014 Shoot with a new set of points in one I think you could guarantee one for six months. Even though you know its going to fail, it shouldn't be in six months. Agree'd.... I think the Y electrical warrantee is 3?? Depending on the rider use it could last for years.... For some 30,000 miles is a year, for others it's a life time....
Bert2006 Posted October 10, 2014 Author #31 Posted October 10, 2014 Just finished to install the new filter and pump. It was actually an easy job to do. Hardest part was getting the old filter out but the rest was quite easy. Once installed I turned petcock back on, then just turned the key on to pressurize the system and then checked for leaks. All was clear and started the bike, purrs like a kitten now. Shut her down and checked for leaks again. Will leave it that way overnight and re-install covers in the morning if no leaks are visible then. Thanks again to all who posted info on this process as again it gave me the confidence to do this myself. Looking forward to a good ride tomorrow.
Seaking Posted October 11, 2014 #32 Posted October 11, 2014 Just finished to install the new filter and pump. It was actually an easy job to do. Hardest part was getting the old filter out but the rest was quite easy. Once installed I turned petcock back on, then just turned the key on to pressurize the system and then checked for leaks. All was clear and started the bike, purrs like a kitten now. Shut her down and checked for leaks again. Will leave it that way overnight and re-install covers in the morning if no leaks are visible then. Thanks again to all who posted info on this process as again it gave me the confidence to do this myself. Looking forward to a good ride tomorrow. Congrats!! Glad to hear you're up and rolling again! Another great week forcast weather on the coast so lots of riding ahead still. What condition was the old fuel filter in? Rather dark looking compared to the new one? Now you understand why many 'relocate' that darn filter.. my ape hands can't reach down there without leaving skin residue behind Cheers!
Bert2006 Posted October 11, 2014 Author #33 Posted October 11, 2014 Congrats!! Glad to hear you're up and rolling again! Another great week forcast weather on the coast so lots of riding ahead still. What condition was the old fuel filter in? Rather dark looking compared to the new one? Now you understand why many 'relocate' that darn filter.. my ape hands can't reach down there without leaving skin residue behind Cheers! It was pretty dark. From the amount of crud acumulated behind that center cover I doubt it was ever changed. In my case I have rather small hands so although it was close quarters, it was not too bad to get it out. Once pump is out of the way I took the hose of the top of the filter, slid the filter down out of the holder with its bottom hose attached. Took that hose off and placed it on the new filter and then reversed the procedure to put filter back in. I can see though that if someones hands are bigger it would be a paint to get in there.
KevinR Posted October 24, 2014 #34 Posted October 24, 2014 Here's the corrected URL for that part from Amazon.. (though our bikes aren't listed on the fitment chart?) Amazon.com: K&L Supply Universal Fuel Pump Point Switch Kit 18-4615: Automotive Amazon acquires it from http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/K-L-Supply-Universal-Fuel-Pump-Point-Switch-Kit-18-p/4606031.htm You yanks have the advantage with Amazon's free shipping.. Not available through Amazon.ca and shipping from either source to the Great White North costs more than the item being shipped.. go figure eh?! According to Amazon's fitment chart that point set doesn't fit our bikes either. Does anyone know for sure that it does? I have an iffy pump in my '06 and would love to know for sure.
wannarsv Posted October 29, 2014 #35 Posted October 29, 2014 Been reading up on fuel pump issues. I think I'm starting to have issues. I've read on the forums a lot of ways to "test" the fuel pump, But haven't seen anything referring to the manual and checking resistance. When it comes to electrical I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer......O.K. when it comes to most things, I not the sharpest knife in the drawer. But that would seem to me to be a sure fire way to test the fuel pump (Page 8-46) Comments?
Neil86 Posted October 30, 2014 #36 Posted October 30, 2014 The way the test reads in the manual the test is done with pump still connected on the fluid end. If you test with points open because of where the pump stroke ended up when key was shut off it would fail a good pump.
Bert2006 Posted October 31, 2014 Author #37 Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) Since I replaced my fuel pump a few weeks ago I am getting a loud pop upon desceleration once I pull the clutch. Does not alway's happen but when it does it sounds like a gun shot. Used the bbq lighter method to check for leaks in exhaust and there are none, vacum caps look ok. So are these the other things I should check in order? 1. Replace vaccum caps. 2. Synchronise carbs. 3. Replace plugs Is there anything I am missing? Thanks Edited October 31, 2014 by Bert2006
Neil86 Posted October 31, 2014 #38 Posted October 31, 2014 Is the air induction (AIS) still hooked up....2 hoses on 2 synch ports?
Bert2006 Posted October 31, 2014 Author #39 Posted October 31, 2014 Is the air induction (AIS) still hooked up....2 hoses on 2 synch ports? Yes it is.
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