Rear brake pad with pics

[Condor]

Barry,

As far as working on one piston at a time, I'll be a dissenter. I'd rather take all of them out, then you're not chasing grunge from one piston you are now cleaning back into one you have already cleaned. Pull them all, and you can know for sure that all the pistons are fully clean.

 

When it come to putting the pistons back in, you need to lube the pistons with either brake fluid, or if you get the rebuild kits, it should come with some lube that I used on the square seals to make thing go together much easier.

Paul

 

Geeze I gotta say something. You won't be chasing 'grunge' from one piston to another. Cleaning up cylinder walls with fine 0000 steel wool, and wiping them down afterwards with a clean towel, isn't going to push dirt anywhere, and any contaminents in the caliper will come out when bleeding. As far as using the packet of anti-squeal to lube the pistons to make it easier to assemble, that stuff is a silicon sealant/caulk. Put it on the piston before assembly and they'll lock up tighter that a frogs ass once it sets up. Fair warning.........

[Tupperj]

Geeze I gotta say something. You won't be chasing 'grunge' from one piston to another. Cleaning up cylinder walls with fine 0000 steel wool, and wiping them down afterwards with a clean towel, isn't going to push dirt anywhere, and any contaminents in the caliper will come out when bleeding. As far as using the packet of anti-squeal to lube the pistons to make it easier to assemble, that stuff is a silicon sealant/caulk. Put it on the piston before assembly and they'll lock up tighter that a frogs ass once it sets up. Fair warning.........

 

Say what you will, but when I went through the calipers on the Venture, I ended up liquifying gunk in the calipers while cleaning them. Some pretty good chunks. Since the bleeders are on the TOP of the caliper, why would they be dispelled in bleeding? If you spray brake cleaner into the caliper, while it's sitting opening up, it's GOT to pool at the bottom, and that's where the passages are that connect the calipers. How will it not migrate?

 

As far as using steel wool, also not a good idea. Can leave pieces behind and steel tends to rust. Don't know about you, but I don't want any more rust than I can avoid in my brake system.

 

As far as anti-squeal goes, read for content, that's not what I said. When I bought my caliper rebuild kits (NOT brake pads) they came with a small packet of red assembly grease. Don't know what it's made of, but it's definitely NOT silicone. Works wonders, put 800 miles on the bike and the brakes move just peachy, thanks.

 

You've been educated. Hopefully.

 

Paul

[Condor]

brakes move just peachy, thanks.

 

You've been educated. Hopefully.

 

Paul

 

What ever you say.... Good Luck..

After writing the above smart ass response I want to go on record that apologies by me are due. I misread 'square seal' as 'squeel'. And you're right they due include a packet of assembly lube with the kit.

However, I stand by my statement about removing the pistons one at a time, and most of the folks who know way more than I do seem to agree. If you want to take a chance and mix them up go ahead. As far as cleaning out the cavity of the caliper, a good wash out with brake fluid by filling shaking and draining will suffice. Blowing air thru the cavity from just one of the cylinders will also help blow crystals out the bleeder valve. Using 0000 steel wool isn't going to hurt a thing. As far as residue from the wool creating problems because it'll rust, give me a break. The caliper and piston are steel.... it all rusts given the chance. Further more wiping off the cylinder walls and washing the opening out with brake fluid and blowing out with air, will remove what little of the fillings remained. Using anything harsher than 0000 and hatching the walls can cause premature seal wear.

Educated... I don't think so.

[bikerjohn51]

just had mine done last month.... same thing 88VR.. it cost me 100 bucks to take it in to the local shop, he took it apart, and very lightly " machined it" and said he put slightly oversized seals in it....... I'll let you know how it works...when the dang snow lets go,,the shop that did it , i trust ..been using him for 20 years

[Tupperj]

What ever you say.... Good Luck..

 

After writing the above smart ass response I want to go on record that apologies by me are due. I misread 'square seal' as 'squeel'. And you're right they due include a packet of assembly lube with the kit.

 

However, I stand by my statement about removing the pistons one at a time, and most of the folks who know way more than I do seem to agree. If you want to take a chance and mix them up go ahead. As far as cleaning out the cavity of the caliper, a good wash out with brake fluid by filling shaking and draining will suffice. Blowing air thru the cavity from just one of the cylinders will also help blow crystals out the bleeder valve. Using 0000 steel wool isn't going to hurt a thing. As far as residue from the wool creating problems because it'll rust, give me a break. The caliper and piston are steel.... it all rusts given the chance. Further more wiping off the cylinder walls and washing the opening out with brake fluid and blowing out with air, will remove what little of the fillings remained. Using anything harsher than 0000 and hatching the walls can cause premature seal wear.

 

Educated... I don't think so.

 

You said it, not me.

 

The pistons are chromed steel. Quite a bit different than steel wool.

 

The caliper is aluminum, hence the problem. It's much softer than steel, which is why steel particles can embed in it. Same reason you don't clean the engine with steel wool.

 

Why worry about mixing up the pistons anyway? There are only one size replacements available, so what is the concern?

 

You still haven't answered the question on how you keep from washing grunge from one cylinder to another. And how you plan on getting anything left behind by bleeding from the top of the caliper.

 

Best of luck to you.

 

Paul

[Condor]

You said it, not me.

 

The pistons are chromed steel. Quite a bit different than steel wool.

 

The caliper is aluminum, hence the problem. It's much softer than steel, which is why steel particles can embed in it. Same reason you don't clean the engine with steel wool.

 

Why worry about mixing up the pistons anyway? There are only one size replacements available, so what is the concern?

 

You still haven't answered the question on how you keep from washing grunge from one cylinder to another. And how you plan on getting anything left behind by bleeding from the top of the caliper.

 

Best of luck to you.

 

Paul

 

 

OK... what ever you say...................

[BJB]

Thanks to everyone. All posts are useful because there are different views and ways of doing things. I usually read them all, look at my situation/needs etc and then try to apply all the knowledge to MY problem. Again thanks. Pistons are back in, rear reservoir removed and cleaned, and new brake pads installed. My daughter and I bled the brakes tonight, and I will do it again tomorrow night. I have ordered master cylinders kits for rear, front and clutch and will install at some later date.

 

Time to start putting it back together...just waiting for the plug wires to show. Probably will sync carbs before putting all the lowers etc back on.

 

One good thing about all this, I know how things come apart and go back together! It will be much easier next time or if one has to do something drastic while on a trip.

[Tupperj]

My daughter and I bled the brakes tonight, and I will do it again tomorrow night.

 

Good for you, and your daughter! My now 20 year old worked with me to bring an old 78 XS750 Triple back to life, and when she turned 18 she told me all she wanted for her birthday was the bike. We also took an across the country bike trip together. Great time and great memories. Hopefully you and your daughter are making some memories of your own.

 

Paul