Squidley Posted September 15, 2014 #1 Posted September 15, 2014 I have a question for those of you that are familiar with stators and have worked with or on them before. Pictured below (Sorry about the poor quality) is a Buckeye HO stator, it's a fairly low hour use unit. I had installed it on a machine (1st gen) and the flywheel/magnet wasn't the correct one. It shaved ever so slightly some of the winding's. Not to the point of a complete severance but flattened out 1 side of the 5 individual winding's that are affected. I have ohm'd checked it and they are all as they are supposed zeroing out to 0.8. They are not grounded as I checked all 3 leads to the base and there is no continuity. My question is a 2 fold one 1) Will some of the shaving being gone from the wires adversely affect the proper performance of the stator. As I understand it, electricity flows around the wire and not through it. My thought being it still has the surface to flow over. 2) I'm fairly confident that I would need to seal the bare spots. How and what should/could I use to accomplish this if the above statement if correct. I'm not a huge electrical guy, I have some basic understanding of how it works. If you start throwing a lot of technical info at me you'll loose me on this one. Kind of a crash course for dummies would be a much better approach. I appreciate any input y'all can offer me.
BlueSky Posted September 15, 2014 #2 Posted September 15, 2014 The current flows through the wires and when they are wrapped in coils like that, together they create a magnetic field that induces current in the rotor or vice versa. I'm speaking in general. I don't know much about the Ventures yet. The risk of missing insulation is that the current will arc from wire to wire and ruin the magnetic field. There is a magnetic field around any wire that has current flowing through it. When you wrap them in a coil, the magnetic field is combined. My degree is in Chem Eng but I know enough elec to make me dangerous!
Flyinfool Posted September 15, 2014 #3 Posted September 15, 2014 It is hard to tell how deep the wire damage goes from the pics. If the wire is cut by more than 10% of the wire diameter then its future is questionable. The thin spot will act like a fuse and that point will get hot until it fails. You effectively have a smaller wire size at the wear point so it will not be able to handle as many amps. undersize wires get hot. If you wish to attempt a repair. I would clean it very thoroughly to remove all traces of oil. sand the area gently, you do not want to expose any new copper, you are just scuffing up the surface a little. Coat the area with some epoxy to seal and insulate everything. But do not expect it to live forever.
Black wing Posted September 16, 2014 #4 Posted September 16, 2014 i would not risk it, the HO stators already have a reputation of early failure. plus those wires will as flyinfool said will tend to heat up quickly and burn up. the current does flow through the wires the force that goes around the wires is the electromagnetic force from the magnet around the stator.
djh3 Posted September 16, 2014 #5 Posted September 16, 2014 Sounds kind of like my "new tire" question I threw out to some folks the other day. In a short answer, if you had to get it going for say a few months (say end of this riding season) I would say go for it. But as Jeff said I dont think I would trust it indefinitely as a permanent fix.
lsutley Posted September 16, 2014 #6 Posted September 16, 2014 I cannot determine the extent of the damage but it appears that the lacquer between the windings was not compromised. If the material loss from the wires is not substantial (less than 1/4) I would put it to good use. Before installation I would inspect for any breaks in the lacquer coatings between windings, signs of cracking or heat damage to the wires. If the windings are not chipped. cracked, warped, stretched, flattened, shrunk, bent or pealed, a re-coating of lacquer should put things right. A few of us "old farmers" have had experiences with successfully rigging generators, starters and the like on some of our obsolete equipment. PS: The bailing wire and bubble gum are optional!!
MikeWa Posted September 16, 2014 #7 Posted September 16, 2014 if the damage is not to severe you can purchase insulating varnish. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTOR-WINDING-TRANSFORMER-BARE-WIRE-INSULATING-VARNISH-SPRAY-REPAIR-COATING-CAN-/171228254705?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ddffd1f1#ht_1276wt_1115 It doesn't look to bad so if it was me I would insulate it and try it. Mike
Yammer Dan Posted September 16, 2014 #8 Posted September 16, 2014 Is there a way to put some current thru the thing to see if it is going to heat up there after you seal??
RedRider Posted September 16, 2014 #9 Posted September 16, 2014 Squidley, Chat with your local auto electric dude. Let him have a look at this. They likely have the lacquer required to clean this up too. RR
frankd Posted September 16, 2014 #10 Posted September 16, 2014 Another thing to worry about......The damaged sections of wire definitely have less copper than the undamaged areas. This creates a small area that has more resistance, and therefore will get a bit hotter. The only thing preventing one coil turn from shorting to the turn below it is the varnish on the wire. If you get the varnish too hot, it breaks down and you will have 'shorted turns' and the stator will have reduced output on that phase. Undamaged stators have what I consider a short life anyway, so why make it shorter. If it's used on a bike that never goes far from home, maybe you could get by for a while, but if it's a bike used to travel distances, it won't be reliable enough. If you decide to use it, inspect each damaged coil carefully and make sure that only 1 turn is damaged. If 2 adjacent coils are damaged, and any copper bridges the gap between them, you will have a shorted stator. You can't measure it with an ohmeter, but as I said above, the short will drastically reduce that phase's output. Frank D.
etcswjoe Posted September 16, 2014 #11 Posted September 16, 2014 I would not trust it myself mainly due to the reasons already stated above.
Squidley Posted September 16, 2014 Author #12 Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks fellas, I plan on selling the bike, but don't want to pass junk on. Your comments make good sense so unfortunately I'll just scrap this one....such is life. Do appreciate all the help.
djh3 Posted September 16, 2014 #13 Posted September 16, 2014 Possibly anyone have a used piece they would offer up? I mean your selling the bike and I understand not wanting to pass on a lemon. But a good salvage piece if got right price wise may be the ticket.
dingy Posted September 16, 2014 #14 Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks fellas, I plan on selling the bike, but don't want to pass junk on. Your comments make good sense so unfortunately I'll just scrap this one....such is life. Do appreciate all the help. I will send you the best used extra stator I have (1st gen) if you send me the damaged one. Might try rewinding idea & would like to use that core. Gary
Squidley Posted September 17, 2014 Author #15 Posted September 17, 2014 I will send you the best used extra stator I have (1st gen) if you send me the damaged one. Might try rewinding idea & would like to use that core. Gary Gary, I'll send it to you, I have an extra stator here, it actually was a new one I purchased and then had issues with the charging system it was in. I ohm'd it out and it's not grounded and has continuity which goes down to 1.0 resistance. I think it's probably good and was going to install it and see if it works. If you want to send me one of your spares thats cool too. It doesn't hurt to have a spare one here as Cowpuc found out when he was down here in early summer. PM me your address as I'm sure I have misplaced it again
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