Noise on PRV175 coming from HID Ballast

[syscrusher]

With the light on and the motor off the noise is far worse on low than on high. With my H4 HID bulb there is a second ordinary halogen for the high beam. This is not terrible since the motor noise washes out the sound when actually riding but I'd like to minimize it if I can.

 

Does anyone have any insight into this sort of thing, I mean does my PRV need a tinfoil hat or should I expect that the HID has imposed a signal onto the power supply?

 

Also, I can confirm that the PRV175 does not save pairing info for the last device it was connected with. Typically I start the motor turn on the PRV (JBL button) and then take my phone out and find the PRV in my BT list and select it. The phone will then attempt to connect to the PRV but then the PRV will try to pair with the phone. I get a dialog on the phone and click OK and I can stream BT to the PRV until I shut off the bike again. I would like it to be more automagical but this is the way it is. It makes no difference if power is still available to the PRV, when you turn it off (JBL button) it loses the pairing info.

[syscrusher]

In the garage after a ride I killed it by putting down kickstand while in gear and I could hear the noise a little. I could hear the noise after turning off the PRV too which means that the noise is coming over the bike's amplifier alone. What's freaky (to me) is that the noise was way worse if I squeezed the front brake lever (turning on the brake light).

[Flyinfool]

In the garage after a ride I killed it by putting down kickstand while in gear and I could hear the noise a little. I could hear the noise after turning off the PRV too which means that the noise is coming over the bike's amplifier alone. What's freaky (to me) is that the noise was way worse if I squeezed the front brake lever (turning on the brake light).

 

The only reason I can see for the brake light to make any difference with the engine off is that between the 2 brake bulbs pulling 4.5 amps and the EAD pulling another 5 amps, the reduced voltage may be what is having an effect on the audio electronics. along the same lines, when the bike is running and you have even more voltage for the audio system it might be that there is actually less noise to hear and not just that the engine is no longer drowning it out. This is just a theory. If you know someone with a battery tester you can try putting a known pure resistive load on the battery to see if noise goes up with reduced voltage.

[syscrusher]

So the noise I'm hearing is an amp that isn't getting enough supply voltage to run as designed? It makes sense to me and you're probably right about the noise being difficult to hear when it's running. So there is no real fix for it. It does seem to be less related to the HID, which is low current draw, than it is to the brake light.

[MikeWa]

Try a noise limiter in the power supply line to the amp. They usually come as a coil and condenser but sometimes a condenser alone is enough.

 

Mike

[dacheedah]

run the power from battery to a relay and a ground from battery to the light. I moved my ballast inside the fairing on the right side and have ferrite beads on the power wires near the ballast.

[syscrusher]

It's a three terminal device, Power In, Filtered Power Out, and Ground.

Since I had already modified my fusebox I put this between the existing ACC connection to the fusebox and the right side of the ACC fuse.

This required one blue shielded tab connector for the output connection to the ACC screw terminal, a blue shielded female tab receptacle to connect the right side of the ACC fuse to the input, and a ring connector to screw down to the ground screw terminal. It screwed to the top of the air box right up near the battery.

My entire ACC load is filtered clean as Taylor Swift's teeth and there is no unwanted noise whatsoever.

 

Accept no substitutes, this is the real deal with real components inside it.

It deserves five stars, the people giving it a so-so review on Amazon didn't know how to install it.

 

 

Browning BR-FILTER

 

[djh3]

Here are some others. Noise suppressor 1 This is like the one I installed.

[syscrusher]

Here are some others. Noise suppressor 1 This is like the one I installed.

 

I'm happy that the Pyramid worked for you. I took a pass on it when I read a reviewer on Amazon who said he cut one open and there was tiny thin wires and next to nothing in the way of components.

The Browning has some heft, rated for 250W with a 10000 mfd capacitor and iron core inductor.

Radio Shack used to sell one like the first link you provided, it's transformer isolation for the signal path and losses can be severe if the overall impedance match is very different.

Edited July 28, 2015 by syscrusher
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[djh3]

Thanks for info. I am pretty sure the one I linked is not the "exact" one I bought. LOL Its been awhile back and its not in my listing anymore on e-bay. So I just threw a quick search in and that one looked sort of what I got. I just installed mine on the power for the feed for my GPS I think. Hmm now I dont really remember. Shoot might have even been the 900 Vulcan now that I get to thinking about it. Oh Boy whats that mean????