Help - Replace desiccant in 1989

[BJB]

Since I have half the bike torn apart, I thought I may as well see what's under the travel

trunk and seat. I am now trying to replace/regenerate the desiccant (silicagel) in the drier tube in my 1989 Venture. Got to the part where owners manual (and manual for 1st gens) say to push on cap and remove circlip. WELL....what a chore. Pushed with all my might and finally got the circlip out. Thought man that must be one heck of a spring....but nothing happened after removing the circlip. I CAN NOT remove the cap. I even grabbed it with a plumbers pliers. I can wiggle it, can slightly turn it, but can't remove it. The whole canister and cap seem to be made out of aluminum. I wonder if this has never been changed and it is all corroded up inside? Any suggestions? Probably my next move is to soak the heck out of it with penetrating fluid or such. It will ruin the silicagel, but that can be replaced. Open to suggestions from this knowledgeable crowd.

[Rocket]

Since I have half the bike torn apart, I thought I may as well see what's under the travel

trunk and seat. I am now trying to replace/regenerate the desiccant (silicagel) in the drier tube in my 1989 Venture. Got to the part where owners manual (and manual for 1st gens) say to push on cap and remove circlip. WELL....what a chore. Pushed with all my might and finally got the circlip out. Thought man that must be one heck of a spring....but nothing happened after removing the circlip. I CAN NOT remove the cap. I even grabbed it with a plumbers pliers. I can wiggle it, can slightly turn it, but can't remove it. The whole canister and cap seem to be made out of aluminum. I wonder if this has never been changed and it is all corroded up inside? Any suggestions? Probably my next move is to soak the heck out of it with penetrating fluid or such. It will ruin the silicagel, but that can be replaced. Open to suggestions from this knowledgeable crowd.

 

Basically rotate & pull at same time to work it out, there is an O ring in the cap too.........

[BJB]

Got it Rocket. Just needed a couple pieces of pizza and a coke....and penetrating fluid. Sure was tight. Thanks.

[Marcarl]

Now just put the marbles in the microwave for about 2 minutes until they turn blue again, and they are as good as new.

[BJB]

I am ahead of you there Marcarl except I left them in for a couple of hours. Just cooling down now and then I pop them back into the canister.

[Guest macewan]

Is it okay to remove the whole cannister from the bike? I want to remove it and work on it from the bench. I didn't see a circlip but I did see a small tab that can be moved right and left under the main cap. I turned it back and forth with pliers but couldn't pull it out. If it does have a circlip, then that is what is keeping it in. I might just take it off and take it to the parts store and use their circlip pliers to do the job.

[BJB]

Yes, you can remove the cannister from the bike. The end piece with the tab on it. I ended up using penetrating fluid around the edge. Then you are able to push it inwards and remove the circlip. You should be good to go then. Any more problems just ask.

[GigaWhiskey]

What would make you want to open the canister to blue the rocks again? Is there some sign or symptom that tells you that it needs to be done?

[Poledar]

If the dessicant has turned pink, it is fairly well saturated with moisture and needs to be either regenerated or replaced, as I remember from my days of Venture service seminars.

Yamaha probably prefers to resell it, but it can be regenerated almost indefinitely.

[Squidley]

If the dessicant has turned pink, it is fairly well saturated with moisture and needs to be either regenerated or replaced, as I remember from my days of Venture service seminars.

Yamaha probably prefers to resell it, but it can be regenerated almost indefinitely.

 

 

We used to Microwave it in the service as we had it in the tail sections of Helocopters. It absorbed the moisture to keep all the avionics in good shape.

[Rocket]

I turned it back and forth with pliers but couldn't pull it out. If it does have a circlip, then that is what is keeping it in. I might just take it off and take it to the parts store and use their circlip pliers to do the job.

 

Circlip pliers will be of no use, as it is a wire type of circlip, a small flat tip screwdriver & needle nose pliers will get it out of the groove, after pushing the cap in a little.

[86er]

As I recall, YamaMama says to replace it every two years. I am the second owner of my '86 and I think the first time it was done was when I did it at 20 years!

 

I cooked mine in the micro at 30 second intervals until it was a pretty blue.

 

[Pasta Burner]

Very old thread, but thanks for the info. I'm having the same problem, put the canister in a bench vice to compress the spring and remove the clip, but can not get the cap off. Just wanted to check if I missed something before pulling and twisting too much. I have a feeling this has never been done before. the PO bypassed the CLASS and installed schrader valves. I did not like that, and decided to fix the CLASS controller instead. luckily the manifold and compressor were still there but finding replacement hardware was a bit challenging. Thanx to Amazon I was able to get some banjo fittings and the correct bolts, and spliced with barb fittings into the old hoses.

 

I was having trouble with the rear timing out when trying to go to high, and wouldn't get above 40ish psi and had a slow leak from somewhere. I got a little hyper focused on the banjo fitting because the bolt was bottoming before the banjo was tight. I took the wrong approach first and cut the bolt shorter, and when I tried again I cut it again and now it's too short and am waiting on replacements. The real problem was that the female threads in the manifold were a little jacked up doh! So in the mean time I've been tackling other minor issues while I wait on parts. I've been reading also about the solenoids maybe being dirty and filters being dirty not allowing enough airflow.

 

Anyway back to the garage to try and get this thing apart. I thanks for letting me tell my story, nobody in my house cares about what I'm doing and I've been working from home for two weeks and into the foreseeable future so none of my typical technical banter with coworkers is happening.

[Marcarl]

Very old thread, but thanks for the info. I'm having the same problem, put the canister in a bench vice to compress the spring and remove the clip, but can not get the cap off. Just wanted to check if I missed something before pulling and twisting too much. I have a feeling this has never been done before. the PO bypassed the CLASS and installed schrader valves. I did not like that, and decided to fix the CLASS controller instead. luckily the manifold and compressor were still there but finding replacement hardware was a bit challenging. Thanx to Amazon I was able to get some banjo fittings and the correct bolts, and spliced with barb fittings into the old hoses.

 

I was having trouble with the rear timing out when trying to go to high, and wouldn't get above 40ish psi and had a slow leak from somewhere. I got a little hyper focused on the banjo fitting because the bolt was bottoming before the banjo was tight. I took the wrong approach first and cut the bolt shorter, and when I tried again I cut it again and now it's too short and am waiting on replacements. The real problem was that the female threads in the manifold were a little jacked up doh! So in the mean time I've been tackling other minor issues while I wait on parts. I've been reading also about the solenoids maybe being dirty and filters being dirty not allowing enough airflow.

 

Anyway back to the garage to try and get this thing apart. I thanks for letting me tell my story, nobody in my house cares about what I'm doing and I've been working from home for two weeks and into the foreseeable future so none of my typical technical banter with coworkers is happening.

 

Take a small punch and lightly tap on the lid to push it down a bit to loosen it, it's a mighty tight fit, almost like it was made for it.

[Pasta Burner]

Desiccant was pink as could be, but I dried it out and put it all back together. A tiny drop of PB blaster was enough moisten the O ring. Still can't get the rear above 45 psi. No indicated leeks, albeit the front is not connected.

[Marcarl]

Desiccant was pink as could be, but I dried it out and put it all back together. A tiny drop of PB blaster was enough moisten the O ring. Still can't get the rear above 45 psi. No indicated leeks, albeit the front is not connected.

 

Does the pump time out, or does it just not want to go above 45?

[Pasta Burner]

it times out giving E2 error. once it gave an E3, didn't look that up yet though. E3 could have been a fluke too as I had been messing with it. Front when connected seems to work fine.

[Pasta Burner]

Just looked up E3 "compressor runs for more than one minute" that is a likely fault then for that instance.

 

the Pressure seems to go up about one PSI per second then plateaus at 40 ish.

[Marcarl]

Just looked up E3 "compressor runs for more than one minute" that is a likely fault then for that instance.

 

the Pressure seems to go up about one PSI per second then plateaus at 40 ish.

 

Max pressure is set to be 42, so if you are getting 45 you should be good.

Try using the max setting and let the unit bring it up on it's own.

[Pasta Burner]

the manual I have Got it from yahamaVenture.nl says that the rear pressure L=14 M=43 H=71 and Max is 85. I might be looking at something wrong though. where did you get your max number from?

 

if I use the auto Low it works always, Medium sometimes, High always gives E2.

 

Manual override does not allow it to go higher either.

[Marcarl]

Opps, you is right, I wrong-read it, hi is 71. So now I would look at the release valve to make sure it's in good shape. My thinking is there has to be a leak someplace that leaks under pressure.

[Pasta Burner]

I did the soap and water test and not finding anything obvious. Also just checked it, it's been sitting a little over an hour and the rear pressure still indicated 44. so by that logic once the pressure is into the system it's staying, but getting it there is where the fault is. do you mean the solenoid when you say release valve? I did not take those off the manifold as they seem to sound and click and do what they do well, but that could be the next step. and when you say to check it, what specifically should I be looking for? Thanks for taking an interest.