Donvito Posted August 27, 2014 #1 Posted August 27, 2014 (edited) After years of wishing I had lights in my rear reflectors I decided to bite the bullet and install them. Since I don’t solder, it is completely solderless. If you can solder, you are probably better off soldering instead. I used information from some of the prior posts regarding this and I thank those that provided that information. Here is what I purchased: LED LIGHTS: I bought 5 meters of 5050 lights. I purchased the waterproof type but if I was doing it again, I would buy the regular lights. The reason being that the waterproof covering has to be removed at each connection which, although not very difficult, is tedious. If your housing is waterproof, waterproof lights are probably overkill. I purchased from Amazon and here’s the link: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K7UWRCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com - 16.4 Feet 12V 300LED 5050 SMD IP65 Waterproof Flexible Lamp Light Strip (Red) -@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/517nmVSznqL.@@AMEPARAM@@517nmVSznqL[/ame] CONNECTORS: These are made to connect strands of LEDs together but you can cut off one connector to use as a power supply: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7M1PYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: ZITRADES 10x 10mm Wide Dual End Connector 2-Conductor Cable, Any Angle Twistable Wire for LED Single Color Strip Light by ZITRADES: Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51uta%2BhJybL.@@AMEPARAM@@51uta%2BhJybL[/ame] WIRE : I bought 25’ of 20 gauge dual wire which has a red and a black wire to match the connectors: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT1CEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: 20ga 25' Red/Black Hookup Wire 12V DC: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21WvGuQT06L.@@AMEPARAM@@21WvGuQT06L[/ame] PLUGS: I bought two plugs to enable removing the lower reflector and trunk. They are four wire connectors also in red and black. Just cut the wire and splice it in where needed. They will only plug together one way so you can’t reverse the wires when plugging it back in. My local Radio Shack had them in stock. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102435 INSTALLATION Remove the following parts: 1. Top Cover 2. Seat 3. Rear Lower Reflector – one acorn nut in each side bag. 4. Left side bag. Don’t forget to remove the directional light and wire. 5. Black plastic cover between side bag and seat The lower reflector comes apart pretty easy. I don’t have a heat gun but I tried a hair dryer which didn’t seem to help. You may want to try heat also. I just cut along the seams with a utility knife. Multiple passes along top and bottom. Then I used a small screwdriver to finish separating the halves. The ends are the most difficult as it’s hard to get to the connection. I left the upper reflector in place on the trunk and removed the red lens. This eliminated the need to cut through the tape which mounts it to the trunk and provided a stable work surface. This lens is more fragile than the lower unit. The connection is at the bottom so, because of the lip on the base, it is hard to get to it to cut through. Also, the small end pieces have to be removed first. Work from the ends and try to slide the knife or small screwdriver under the lens. If you do break the lens, when you repair it don’t glue the lens itself. Just fit it together and glue the lens to the base. WIRING Connect wires to either the battery terminals or to an unswitched terminal on the bike. Leave the wires long enough to provide some movement, about 2 to 4 feet. This is to test the connections on the LED strips before installing them. The LEDs can be cut at every third light. The place to cut is marked on it. If you have the waterproof type, you have to cut away the plastic covering from over the contacts. The LED strip will fit into the slot at the bottom of the connector and should be inserted until the contacts are under the contacts in the connector. Then just snap it together. They are a little finicky and may require multiple attempts to get the connection. I found that removing the tape from the bottom of the strip at the contacts helps. Just peel it back an inch or so. Videos are available to help with this process. The LED strips have a sticky back and can be placed in rows onto the base of the reflectors. I installed 3 rows with the center row for the tail light and the two end rows for the brake light. For the lower reflector, I just ground down an opening at the lower left corner using a dremel for the wires to protrude through. For the upper, I drilled a ¼” hole through a small hold already in place on the lower left end of the base and through to the trunk. On the upper reflector, place the connectors about an inch or so from the end. This will allow room for the wires and avoid placing a connector on the bump where the screw is attached. I just spliced and taped additional wire to the LED connector wires and ran the wires from the lower reflector along the wire for the directional and up to the wiring for the tail light. Just follow the wires from the tail light to the plug. Mine are yellow, blue and black and there are 6 coming from the light to the plug and 3 on the other side of the plug. I made my connections to the 3 wire side of the plug so I could still unplug the tail light for removal. Feed the wires from the upper reflector LEDs through the hole you drilled into the trunk. Splice additional wire and run it through the opening at the bottom of the trunk through which the trunk light wires are already running. I thought about using the trunk light wires for the tail light but, unfortunately, it’s unswitched so it’s hot all the time. Run enough wire to get to the tail light plug. On my bike, the blue wire feeds the tail light and the yellow is for the brake light and I just cut and spliced the wires in accordingly. I tested along each step of the way. As I added a wire, I tested the lights. The last thing I did was to install the plugs. These aren’t necessary but are handy to remove the trunk and lower reflector. I used duck tape to tape over the wires inside the trunk and my trunk bottom protector will help protect the wires. I wrapped the exterior wires with electrical tape. I haven’t permanently reattached the lenses to the base yet. I just taped the lower reflector to the base for now and didn’t install the upper reflector lens. I want to run the bike for a while to make sure there are no problems before permanently reattaching. In Summer in Florida I don’t ride much anyway. So you may want to do this towards the end of your riding season. Thanks to everyone who posted previously and let me know if you have any questions. PICTURES 1. Lower Reflector Separated 2. Items Needed (didn’t use the plugs pictured) 3. Plugs Used 4. Lower reflector LEDs installed 5. Upper reflector LEDs installed 6. Tail Light 7. Brake Light Edited August 29, 2014 by Donvito
Prairiehammer Posted August 27, 2014 #3 Posted August 27, 2014 Thanks, Vito. Good info. I am planning such an upgrade to my 1991. BTW, the OEM reflectors are glued with an adhesive that 'welds' the plastic and heat won't do much good. Think styrene model cement. The Big Bike Parts aftermarket lighted trunk 'reflector' was indeed assembled with a heat 'soft-enable' adhesive, but not the OEM reflectors.
Bob Myers Posted August 27, 2014 #5 Posted August 27, 2014 If you drilled a hole in the end(on the originals) can you feed it through like that? Strip would likely just fall down to bottom and lay there but it would be some light
Chaharly Posted August 27, 2014 #6 Posted August 27, 2014 After years of wishing I had lights in my rear reflectors I decided to bite the bullet and install them. Since I don’t solder, it is completely solderless. If you can solder, you are probably better off soldering instead. I used information from some of the prior posts regarding this and I thank those that provided that information. Here is what I purchased: LED LIGHTS: I bought 5 meters of 5050 lights. I purchased the waterproof type but if I was doing it again, I would buy the regular lights. The reason being that the waterproof covering has to be removed at each connection which, although not very difficult, is tedious. If your housing is waterproof, waterproof lights are probably overkill. I purchased from Amazon and here’s the link: Amazon.com - 16.4 Feet 12V 300LED 5050 SMD IP65 Waterproof Flexible Lamp Light Strip (Red) - CONNECTORS: These are made to connect strands of LEDs together but you can cut off one connector to use as a power supply: Amazon.com: ZITRADES 10x 10mm Wide Dual End Connector 2-Conductor Cable, Any Angle Twistable Wire for LED Single Color Strip Light by ZITRADES: Electronics WIRE : I bought 25’ of 20 gauge dual wire which has a red and a black wire to match the connectors: Amazon.com: 20ga 25' Red/Black Hookup Wire 12V DC: Automotive PLUGS: I bought two plugs to enable removing the lower reflector and trunk. They are four wire connectors also in red and black. Just cut the wire and splice it in where needed. They will only plug together one way so you can’t reverse the wires when plugging it back in. My local Radio Shack had them in stock. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102435 INSTALLATION Remove the following parts: 1. Top Cover 2. Seat 3. Rear Lower Reflector – one acorn nut in each side bag. 4. Left side bag. Don’t forget to remove the directional light and wire. 5. Black plastic cover between side bag and seat The lower reflector comes apart pretty easy. I don’t have a heat gun but I tried a hair dryer which didn’t seem to help. You may want to try heat also. I just cut along the seams with a utility knife. Multiple passes along top and bottom. Then I used a small screwdriver to finish separating the halves. The ends are the most difficult as it’s hard to get to the connection. I left the upper reflector in place on the trunk and removed the red lens. This eliminated the need to cut through the tape which mounts it to the trunk and provided a stable work surface. Again, try heat and be patient. I have neither and did some damage separating the pieces. If you do break the lens, when you repair it don’t glue the lens itself. Just fit it together and glue the lens to the base. WIRING Connect wires to either the battery terminals or to an unswitched terminal on the bike. Leave the wires long enough to provide some movement, about 2 to 4 feet. This is to test the connections on the LED strips before installing them. The LEDs can be cut at every third light. The place to cut is marked on it. If you have the waterproof type, you have to cut away the plastic covering from over the contacts. The LED strip will fit into the slot at the bottom of the connector and should be inserted until the contacts are under the contacts in the connector. Then just snap it together. They are a little finicky and may require multiple attempts to get the connection. I found that removing the tape from the bottom of the strip at the contacts helps. Just peel it back an inch or so. Videos are available to help with this process. The LED strips have a sticky back and can be placed in rows onto the base of the reflectors. I installed 3 rows with the center row for the tail light and the two end rows for the brake light. For the lower reflector, I just ground down an opening at the lower left corner using a dremel for the wires to protrude through. For the upper, I drilled a ¼” hole through a small hold already in place on the lower left end of the base and through to the trunk. I just spliced and taped additional wire to the LED connector wires and ran the wires from the lower reflector along the wire for the directional and up to the wiring for the tail light. Just follow the wires from the tail light to the plug. Mine are yellow, blue and black and there are 6 coming from the light to the plug and 3 on the other side of the plug. I made my connections to the 3 wire side of the plug so I could still unplug the tail light for removal. Feed the wires from the upper reflector LEDs through the hole you drilled into the trunk. Splice additional wire and run it through the opening at the bottom of the trunk through which the trunk light wires are already running. I thought about using the trunk light wires for the tail light but, unfortunately, it’s unswitched so it’s hot all the time. Run enough wire to get to the tail light plug. On my bike, the blue wire feeds the tail light and the yellow is for the brake light and I just cut and spliced the wires in accordingly. I tested along each step of the way. As I added a wire, I tested the lights. The last thing I did was to install the plugs. These aren’t necessary but are handy to remove the trunk and lower reflector. I used duck tape to tape over the wires inside the trunk and my trunk bottom protector will help protect the wires. I wrapped the exterior wires with electrical tape. I haven’t permanently reattached the lenses to the base yet. I just taped the lower reflector to the base for now and didn’t install the upper reflector lens. I want to run the bike for a while to make sure there are no problems before permanently reattaching. In Summer in Florida I don’t ride much anyway. So you may want to do this towards the end of your riding season. Thanks to everyone who posted previously and let me know if you have any questions. PICTURES 1. Lower Reflector Separated 2. Items Needed (didn’t use the plugs pictured) 3. Plugs Used 4. Lower reflector LEDs installed 5. Upper reflector LEDs installed 6. Tail Light 7. Brake Light That is sick! Totally unique too thats gonna turn heads for a long time
Donvito Posted August 27, 2014 Author #9 Posted August 27, 2014 If you drilled a hole in the end(on the originals) can you feed it through like that? Strip would likely just fall down to bottom and lay there but it would be some light If you remove the lower reflector and separate one end, you may be able to slide a strand of LED lights through. There is a bulge on the bottom so would probably be better off sliding in about half way up. The waterproof reflectors are more rigid so should try them. I don't think it's possible with the upper reflector. Picture 4 shows the bulge so my middle row is just above it.
Donvito Posted August 27, 2014 Author #10 Posted August 27, 2014 Thanks, Vito. Good info. I am planning such an upgrade to my 1991. BTW, the OEM reflectors are glued with an adhesive that 'welds' the plastic and heat won't do much good. Think styrene model cement. The Big Bike Parts aftermarket lighted trunk 'reflector' was indeed assembled with a heat 'soft-enable' adhesive, but not the OEM reflectors. Thanks for the info. I went back and reviewed the post about using heat and the reflector base was metal, not plastic like mine. I'll remove the heat advise. Thanks.
djh3 Posted August 28, 2014 #11 Posted August 28, 2014 Good job Vitto. And no I haven found a mic for you yet.
videoarizona Posted August 28, 2014 #12 Posted August 28, 2014 On my list. Thanks for the write-up and pictures!
bart1963 Posted August 28, 2014 #13 Posted August 28, 2014 Looks great!! Just printed it out, I might get that on mine.
Flyinfool Posted August 28, 2014 #14 Posted August 28, 2014 Looks good. I might have scarred off some with my writeup.
paysaw Posted August 28, 2014 #15 Posted August 28, 2014 I did the similar lighting mod to my 86 earlier this year.I took apart my rear turn signals as well and added two channel LED. I hooked it up to a Kuryakyn lighting control and modulator.This a great write up. Thanks.
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