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Posted (edited)

Hello all, on my 99, when I pull in the clutch and put it in gear, when I let out the clutch about a half inch from the grip, it start to move the bike. Also, with the bike off and bike in first, when I start it the bike move forward a bit when starting it. Is it time to replace the clutch? Seems I have hardly any friction zone at all away from the grip. Also, neutral is hard to find as well.

Edited by Kettlinton
added statement
Posted

You have a hydraulic clutch slave, there is no adjustment for the friction point. Your slave is probably starting to leak, or the fluid needs to be flushed, or both...

Posted
You have a hydraulic clutch slave, there is no adjustment for the friction point. Your slave is probably starting to leak, or the fluid needs to be flushed, or both...

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

 

The first sign of a clutch problem is slipping when rolling hard on the throttle in 5th gear at highway speeds.

 

What you are describing is a problem with the clutch actuation.

Posted

Bleed the clutch out for SURE. I just did this on my 06. 55K. Its like brand new. TO NOTE: when you bleed it..you have to keep pumping it for 10-12 mins to get pressure back. So dont worry. Also if you are slipping in upper gears. Grab yourself a new clutch(i always order from stadium yamaha....great prices) and dont forget to order the gasket :)

 

Goodluck!:)

Posted
I see now that there is a leak by the kick stand. Hope this is only the problem😕 seems like one problem after another.[/quote

 

Make sure you bleed screw didnt come loose by accident. I have had that happen

Posted

As an additional FYI - You mentioned the friction point is close to the grip. There are some modifications to the clutch that cause the friction point to move towards the grip and be shorter. IIRC, it is the Freebird mod. The innermost half plate and spring is replaced with a complete friction plate to allow a bit more friction material in the clutch.

 

Easy to change back if you have the parts. If you find this is what you have, and want to change back to stock (I did), I'm sure there are several folks on here that have the original components available.

 

RR

Posted
As an additional FYI - You mentioned the friction point is close to the grip. There are some modifications to the clutch that cause the friction point to move towards the grip and be shorter. IIRC, it is the Freebird mod. The innermost half plate and spring is replaced with a complete friction plate to allow a bit more friction material in the clutch.

 

Easy to change back if you have the parts. If you find this is what you have, and want to change back to stock (I did), I'm sure there are several folks on here that have the original components available.

 

RR

 

Hmmmm......

When I replaced my half disc, the friction point moved way out toward the end of travel, not anywhere near the grip. I have been thinking of going back to the half disc.

Posted
Thanks guys! I just ordered a slave cylinder repair kit and gasket. Hope this takes care of the issue.
Make sure you hone the cylinder when you rebuild, the issue with leakage is corrosion in the cylinder. Actually you would have been better served replacing the whole slave unit as they do not cost that much, and a lot of times rebuilding doesn't last long.

 

Any older bike will develop issues regardless of the make...

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hello all. In order to get to the Slave Cylinder, which cover is it behind? Big one on left or small one on right? Don't want to take things apart if I don't have to. Thanks

Posted
Hello all. In order to get to the Slave Cylinder, which cover is it behind? Big one on left or small one on right? Don't want to take things apart if I don't have to. Thanks

 

Small one on the right in your picture.

Don't lose the copper washer in the bolt hole at six o'clock. And you'd be wise to get a middle gear cover (that's the cover on the right) gasket before you begin.

Posted
Hello all. In order to get to the Slave Cylinder, which cover is it behind? Big one on left or small one on right? Don't want to take things apart if I don't have to. Thanks

 

Call me I will walk you through it. I just replaced my clutch slave!!

Posted

In order to use that repair kit you must hone the cylinder out to get it right. You are better off replacing the whole unit. Try bleeding the clutch if that doesn't help its air getting past the seal on the slave. You mentioned a leak. Just bleeding the clutch won't help that if it is the slave leaking. Good luck.

Posted
Hello all, on my 99, when I pull in the clutch and put it in gear, when I let out the clutch about a half inch from the grip, it start to move the bike. Also, with the bike off and bike in first, when I start it the bike move forward a bit when starting it. Is it time to replace the clutch? Seems I have hardly any friction zone at all away from the grip. Also, neutral is hard to find as well.

 

You need to bleed the clutch... If the fluid isn't clear and watery looking it's time...

Posted

I just flushed my clutch fluid. I hadn't done it and the bike has 25k on it. Don't know if the PO had ever done it, either. It was black. The lever is easier and smoother to pull now. I never imagined it would make that much difference.

As far as replacing the clutch, chances are it isn't needed. Usually a slipping clutch is caused by the clutch spring, part # 4NK-16334-00-00, getting weak, not bad clutch plates. The spring is around $60.00 and easy to replace. You can also upgrade to the Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion Kit, part # 511-90-10002 for around $125.00.

Posted

Skydoc has a great kit for sale on here. Customer service is top notch. If you have to replace your clutch which it sounds like right now all you need is a thorough bleeding/flush and a new slave cylinder give his kit a shot. Took me about 30 minutes to do slave cylinder and maybe 45 to do the clutch friction plates and about 10 minutes to flush the clutch and bleed it with a vacuum pump.

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