Frame Q's

[Dano]

Got the frame cleaned off finally, got a couple of questions on the center stand bracing. To me, it looks like somebody has welded in triangular braces already. These welds, especially the one on the right side of frame (straight triangle, looks like left side, frame upside down), does not look like factory weld. Do I need to do additional bracing while I'm in here? No cracks are evident, will wait till I sand frame down (or get it sand-blasted) to check closer. Word of wisdom, as is evidenced at the kick-stand switch, leaking hydraulic fluid will eat the crap out of your paint job! Maybe I should just paint the frame w/ brake fluid to strip it! Next pic is again from the battery acid fumes due to no breather vent hose on the bike. Also noticed in the neck bearing races, looks like bearings have "set" themselves in one area. Should I replace the races and bearings as a set? Middle 2 shots-- my "wash-down" area (keeps me out of the doghouse-eh Dragonslayer?!) and the project I had before I got the Venture. Will get to it sometime!

 

Thanks guys again,

 

Dan

 

Sorry the pics aren't that clear, still trying to learn this camera!

[Venturous Randy]

In my opinion as best I can tell by the pictures near the center stand, there may have been some more bracing put in because that appears to be better than stock welding. I would still consider doing some bracing as I have done to keep the twist from happening. I will try to add some pics.

RandyA

Hey, there are some neat articles about 65 Corvairs in this month's Popular Hot Rodding.

[Dano]

Hey, there are some neat articles about 65 Corvairs in this month's Popular Hot Rodding.

 

Cool, I'll check that out. Thanks!

[Squeeze]

Hi Dan,

 

these Bearings sure have arrived at the End of their Lifetime Cycle.

 

There are several Ways to get the Races out of the Frame. If you have a Welder at Hand, just weld on the inside of the Race the complete Turn and the Races will fall out of the Frame. As you are probably going to enforce the center Stand Area, it might be the easiest Job doing this, while working on lower Frame. If not, just cut the Races in an Angle with a Dremel Cutting Tools on the Length of a quarter of the Race and fairly deep, break the Race with a Chisel and it will also come out easy.

 

Now, on the lower Forkbrace, there are several Ways to undo the Bearing. If you can save the Washer with the attached Seal underneath the Bearing, you can buy a Set of good Industry bearings such as Timken or SKF. Industry Numbers are 32005 X and 32006 X. If the Seal is gone, you might go with Yamaha Parts. The Seal is important. Stay away from cheap Aftermarket Bearings, the Steel is too weak on them.

 

Now, as you might know, grind the Seats on the Frame larger, that the new Races can move free and without any Pressure from the Seats and glue the Races in the Frame with Loctite 648 after the Paint Job is done.

 

If you like to take an extra Mile, bore the Tubing, tap a Thread in the Tube where the Seats go and mount a 90* angled Grease Nipple.

 

As for the ruined Paint Job... I'd get the Frame ice- or sandblasted. This is faster, cleaner and longer lasting than grinding. Save your Elbow Grease for the upcoming Job, you have enough on your ToDo List and i guess you want to ride this Year ?

[bongobobny]

I had a '65 Corvair Monza 110 convertable! Fun to drive but POS for oil leaks. Spent twice as much on repairs than I paid in payments so I got rid of it after 4 months. Traded it in on a '66 Ford Galaxy 390 convertable that I kept for years!!

[Fvogt]

I can't tell for sure from your photos & I have never heard of a broken 84 frame.

Only 83 frames are in question. I have an Jan-84 frame and a 91 frame and they look the same.

 

Fred

:cool10:

[bokeifus]

I'd say replace those bearings and races as a set!

If the bearings have seated to one side, its due to miss adjustment. They were a little loose from the start. If you try to use either side (bearing, or race) this will cause premature wear on the new stuff and you'll be back where you are now..

[Condor]

I have an 88 frame that looks the same as your 84 with the gussets. I think I'd look into getting the thing bead blasted to remove all the rust, and as long as you're at it look into getting it powder coated. I'm not sure how the p-coat would hold up to dribbling DOT 3, but it gotta be better than the OEM finish. Replace the bearings and races and anything else you can think of while it's naked....

[Squeeze]

.... Replace the bearings and races and anything else you can think of while it's naked....

 

and the Budget is not overdrawn ... :whistling:

 

 

No, sincerly, i would do anything new which gets out of Range when the Bike is getting back together Step by Step. Complete Bearings on Steering and Suspension, questionable Innards of the Motor, Engine Breather Casing eventually. And check the inside of the Tank for Rust.

 

Powdercoating is not bad, when the Supplier knows what to do and does a good Job. But the Downside of powdercoating is, once there is a small Cut or Damage in the Coating, you won't notice it until the darn Things brakes apart. Moisture and Water gets under the Coating and will never come out. Now add some Salt and wait until the Rust has done the Damage.

 

I've seen this on electrical Cabinets and steel sheet Casings of Diesel Motors on my Trucks for a long Time. It looked fine for 3 Years and within 3 Months it looked like those Parts are 20 Years old. Now, i gave the Supplier loud and unambiguous Holler and they are back to painting these Parts.

 

One of my local Buddies has had his Vmax Frame powdercoated, the Coat was so thick, we couldn't even read the VIN anymore. We carefully shaved most of the Coating off and repainted the Area. We had to work on all Seats and each Thread on the Frame. Therefore, i'm quite hesitating about Powdercoating a Frame. It might be fine with other Parts like Swingarm, lower Fork Tubes, Fenders and so on, but not on a Frame. Best Thing you can do on Frame is to nickel plate it. Looks almost like Chrome, but has many Advantages over Chrome and Paint. But this might be too expensive. Of Course, that's only my two Cents worth.

[Dano]

Thanks guys, will have sandblasted (local company) and paint frame. I think I have enough threads to chase after painting that powdercoating would take too long. Definately going after all bearings, I think this is where my "frame wobble" comes in. Just felt like every bearing had play while riding (of course, theres only the 2 swing arm and the neck bearings that contribute mightily to this) I know, wheel bearings too, but frame has to do with rigidity)). I do want to ride this year, but with a marked improvement over last year, and not have to worry about it later.

Squeeze, the grease fittings for the neck and swingarm-- just past the races? Definately want these.

 

Gotta go now, more maintenance around the house to do.

Talk to ya later

 

Dan

[Squeeze]

Thanks guys, will have sandblasted (local company) and paint frame. I think I have enough threads to chase after painting that powdercoating would take too long. Definately going after all bearings, I think this is where my "frame wobble" comes in. Just felt like every bearing had play while riding (of course, theres only the 2 swing arm and the neck bearings that contribute mightily to this) I know, wheel bearings too, but frame has to do with rigidity)). I do want to ride this year, but with a marked improvement over last year, and not have to worry about it later.

Squeeze, the grease fittings for the neck and swingarm-- just past the races? Definately want these.

 

Gotta go now, more maintenance around the house to do.

Talk to ya later

 

Dan

 

Place the Grease Fitting somewhere in the Neck, where you will have good Access when the Fairing is mounted. Therefore, a 90* angled is in Order. Same goes for the Suspension. The Swingarm Bearings don't need extra Grease, just pack them good while mounting.

 

 

If you have someone with a Lathe, you might consider solid Motor Mounts. I have a Sketch if you want it. Of Course, you also can purchase them from Blue Ridge Mountain Sportsmax ...

[juggler]

I had a '65 Corvair Monza 110 convertable! Fun to drive but POS for oil leaks. Spent twice as much on repairs than I paid in payments so I got rid of it after 4 months. Traded it in on a '66 Ford Galaxy 390 convertable that I kept for years!!

 

My first car was a '63 Corvair (in 1984). I had some fun with that car.

 

[Dano]

My first car was a '63 Corvair (in 1984). I had some fun with that car.

 

 

I've got all 3 motors for this car,,,, the 110 2 bbl, the 140 horse 4 bbl, AND the 180 horse turbo. I'm gonna have fun one of these days!!!!!!