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Posted

Finally got the case split and the frame cleaned up. #'s match on motor and frame, so it is original. First a couple of pointers that I had not seen in earlier posts. For some reason, MamaYama decided not to put the drain plug in the lowest portion of the oil pan, so you don't get a complete oil change, nor drain the sludge. It makes it messy when you're tearing down the motor such as I am. I figured this one out, though. Take a gallon oil jug, split it in half vertically. Then follow these pics. I thought it was ingenious! Got about 1/4- 2/3rds quart of oil out of the motor. Just lay a couple of 2x4s on their edge with the split jugs under them and lay the motor over on it's side. By the way, how do you like my hillbilly work bench!?!

 

Next: here are pics of my forks, only 1 showing any face wear, maybe just in the beginning phases of the damage part. I'm not seeing much damage on the gearset, haven't broken down the drive axle set yet (tomorrow?). Whada'ya think? I'm hoping thrust washer, check shaft and fork, replace if necessary.

Can't figure out how to get pics between lines to continue commentary, will set new post for my frame questions.

 

Thanks guys,

Dan

Posted

This is how I get rid of headaches! Very relaxing for me! The headache will come when it's time to put it all back together!

Posted

Dan, a suggestion on checking the forks is to assemble the gearset in the bottom half of the case. This way you can see if there is any difference in the spacing on each side of the gear slot from the tip to the bottom of the forks. On mine, it was obvious that the forks were bent due to the tips being scored on the tips on one side and at the base on the other side.

Also, how do the leading edges of the dogs on 2nd gear look and the female side slots on the matching gear? Does it look like that edge is rounded off very much?

It looks like you have a good setup to work on this thing and everything sure does look clean.

Oh, one other question. when you look at the oil manifold below the crank, can you see that the orange o-ring near the filter is in place?

RandyA

Posted

Oh, one other question. when you look at the oil manifold below the crank, can you see that the orange o-ring near the filter is in place?

RandyA

 

I knew there was one to check, now I know which one! Thanks again.

Posted

Hi Dan,

 

i would replace the 2nd Gear Shift Fork anyway. It really does not cost you an Arm and you have a new Part which will last for Years. Together with the upcoming undercut of the Gears and the new half moon shaped Lock-Washers on the Shaft, it will last a really long Time.

 

For what i can see on the Pics, all looks not bad at all.

 

And i don't see anything wrong with your Bench, the work Level seems a bit higher than a standard Bench, which may give you less Pain on your Back.

 

Keep up the good Work and you will be a very happy Camper.

 

PS.

 

when i dismount a Motor, i take a Piece of Cardboard, mark the shape of the splitted Casing on it, take a Screwdriver and make Holes where every Bolts goes and put them in there. Makes everything easier while mounting later.

Posted

i haven't finished reassembling my bike quite yet so i'm not 100% that my gear problems are solved but everything seemed to line up good. i ended up just replacing the 2nd fork and thrust washers but on that note when you order parts make sure you get 2 of the thrust washers. they screwed up my part #'s so i got two washers and only one of the half-moon actual thrust washers

 

good luck

Posted
i haven't finished reassembling my bike quite yet so i'm not 100% that my gear problems are solved but everything seemed to line up good. i ended up just replacing the 2nd fork and thrust washers but on that note when you order parts make sure you get 2 of the thrust washers. they screwed up my part #'s so i got two washers and only one of the half-moon actual thrust washers

 

good luck

 

Good idea, ordering thru Flatout, so I hope they get it right. Gonna sit down tonite and get busy. Let me know how it works out.

 

Good luck,

 

Dan

Posted
i haven't finished reassembling my bike quite yet so i'm not 100% that my gear problems are solved but everything seemed to line up good. i ended up just replacing the 2nd fork and thrust washers but on that note when you order parts make sure you get 2 of the thrust washers. they screwed up my part #'s so i got two washers and only one of the half-moon actual thrust washers

 

good luck

Just to emphasize this: the half washers are only one half per part bag. So if you ordered only 1 than you'll have to order another to get the complete set. Just don't know what some bright stick was thinking on this one?????????:think::think::think:

Posted

Oh, one other question. when you look at the oil manifold below the crank, can you see that the orange o-ring near the filter is in place?

RandyA

 

Randy, good point.

 

Also check your oil pick up strainer. I found that even though i still had my o-ring in place, there was also one in my strainer. Must have been replaced once before. (lots of other trash in there too.)

 

I remember that you wired the manifold tube up on yours so that it couldn't push the new o-ring out. I went a different route. I wish i had pictures but i don't.

 

I had some neoprene rubber that was about 1/8" thick. I cut a peice to match the diameter of the rubber support pad that originally held the tube in place. Then i glued the two together.

 

It was sufficient to hold the pipe firmly in place (for now) and the little "knocking noise" that i had went away...............Just my two coppers.:080402gudl_prv:

Posted

Make sure you check for wear on the main drive axle. On the side where the thrust washer is located (left side of engine). The axle can become worn (as all the pressure and impact is directed to this point) and need to be replaced as well. This wear widens the gap on the drive axle and creates play in the second gear dogs as well.

Posted

Can you measure the gap? What would the proper gap size be? Or wait till I get the new washer and check? Inquiring minds wanna know!!!

Posted

You know, I don't have a new one to measure it, but if you look carefully at the outside edge (where the two circlip washers ride on it) you can notice a rounding of the edge. It should be straight cut to the bottom of the slot, but if it rounds toward the top it has wear. If there is wear on the circlips, then it has worn the shaft as the rough edges tear into each other. If your circlips are good then your shaft is probably okay too.

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