brakes not bleeding

[BigD]

The rear brakes have been feeling mushy all year, so I replaced the pads which were needed. The brake pedal still felt very soft so I started to bleed the rear brake. I can't get the air out, in fact it seems to be getting worse. Am I pulling in air from caliper or maybe from the master cylinder??? I have a 06 RSV with 30,000 miles with to original rear pads. Help guys, I planning on a 2,000 mile trip in the next few weeks. Thanks in advance for any input.

[etcswjoe]

I had a similar issue so I went and bought a speed bleeder 5 mins later I was done. If you can't find speed bleeders speed metal makes a neat tool that is a bleeder wrench and a one way valve that works well.

[billmac]

you are trying to bleed from the rear MC and not the front MC ?

[djh3]

OK I hate to go the KISS route but......... Are you using a bleeder bottle? Make sure there is a loop in the hose and it goes up hill before it goes in the bottle. this will help to keep from pulling air on when you release the pedal. If you can get a helper that would be good. Pump the pedal a couple times, then hold pressure on it. then open the wrench slowly to let fluid out, you dont need to stand on the pedal, just even pressure. Once its down hold it and close the valve. Repeat a couple times and check level. The master don't hold a lot of fluid. If your by yourself trying to do this its a pretty tuff trick, you can use a piece of board to push the pedal.

I have a vacuum bleeder and its OK to get a draw through when changing fluid. But I dont trust if for a complete air free bleed. I did go and invest in the speed bleeders earlier this year and man does that really help on the clutch. I think maybe $20 all in on 4 bleeders.

[BigD]

Thanks guys, I will try to get some help tomorrow. And yes, I was trying to bleed with the hose straight down. Thanks for the help!

[camos]

OK I hate to go the KISS route but......... Are you using a bleeder bottle? Make sure there is a loop in the hose and it goes up hill before it goes in the bottle. this will help to keep from pulling air on when you release the pedal. If you can get a helper that would be good. Pump the pedal a couple times, then hold pressure on it. then open the wrench slowly to let fluid out, you dont need to stand on the pedal, just even pressure. Once its down hold it and close the valve. Repeat a couple times and check level. The master don't hold a lot of fluid. If your by yourself trying to do this its a pretty tuff trick, you can use a piece of board to push the pedal.

Yayyy!!! Somebody besides me gets it. I have posted about this several times and have never gotten any feedback. It's like everyone thinks bleeding the brakes or the clutch has to be hard because the only people posting about it are having difficulty but it is not, it is just too easy if you know how it's done.

 

As djh3 said, the trick is the loop from the bleeder to the bottle and of course, never let the reservoir get empty. That's all there is to it.

 

The rise of the loop holds brake fluid so no air can get sucked back into the system when you stop pumping. You can see the fluid level move back towards the bleeder on the back stroke. The loop needs to be higher than that possible movement, 1/2"-1" so it needs to be 3"- 5" high. Also, it is not necessary to pump and hold pressure before opening the bleeder. Just open the bleeder with hose already on it and pump out the old fluid. When the fluid looks clear then you know fresh fluid from the reservoir has made it to the bleeder. Any bubbles can be seen through the clear hose and most of the action happens before the fluid looks clear. The faster you can pump the fluid the easier it is to move any bubbles in the system because there is less time for the bubbles to float up. Having another person keeping the reservoir from getting empty does make it easier. However, doing it solo is not very difficult since air cannot get in through the bleeder when the hose has a head of brake fluid. The main reason to have a helping hand is when pumping you may not be able to see the level in the reservoir. Suck any air into the system from the reservoir and you have to start the process over again.

 

Motorcycle systems are so simple and so small that bleeding them should never require a vacuum pump or speed bleeders. KISS reigns supreme.

[ricksbike]

Harbor Freight sells a great air powered vacuum bleeder for about 30 bucks,I`ve used mine on cars,trucks and bikes never had any problem.

[buddy]

I always gravity bleed the system open res.cap open bleeder and let gravity do the rest course make sure the system has plenty of brake fluid never failed me yet

[djh3]

I guess I should have actually said if after the normal type bleeding, that is open valve, push pedal down, close and repeat a couple times watching for bubbles. If you then still have a sponge pedal try the pump up and bleed a couple times. It should help force air the the bleeder. I would say normally you only need to open bleeder and push pedal.

what I normally do every couple years as it only took once to have a brake issue in the mountains, is change the brake fluid every couple years. I use a syringe and suck old fluid out, but leave some in the intake hole in reservoir so as to not get air in. fill reservoir and proceed to bleed watching the level. Once its clear fluid in the bleed hose your good.

[BigD]

Well I tried bleeding the brake last night with a loop in the hose, and like magic after 2-3 pumps no more air bubbles. Thanks again for the help guys. I can't believe it only costs 12 dollars a year to have access to this kind of information and help.

[djh3]

See nows your an expert. Well sort of.