Cruise Control problem

[rauvaag]

On my -84 mod 1200 the Cruise Control will not work.

The indicator light comes on and everything seems ok. But when I push set it will not keep the speed. I have checked the system according to the workshop manual and checked the switches on the breaks and clutch and they are ok. I have also checked the vacuum pump, solenoid valve and actuator. They all seems to work fine. I have also checked the cruise control unit.

Everything looks ok, but it still will not work.

Can anyone help me?

Otherwise I just have to start replacing part one by one...

[bigbob]

On my -84 mod 1200 the Cruise Control will not work.

The indicator light comes on and everything seems ok. But when I push set it will not keep the speed. I have checked the system according to the workshop manual and checked the switches on the breaks and clutch and they are ok. I have also checked the vacuum pump, solenoid valve and actuator. They all seems to work fine. I have also checked the cruise control unit.

Everything looks ok, but it still will not work.

Can anyone help me?

Otherwise I just have to start replacing part one by one...

Make sure your brake lite is not staying on, seen that before.

 

 

Ride safe Bob

[videoarizona]

The only things you didn't mention is the throttle cable connected to the vacuum unit and the vacuum hoses.

 

There is an adjustment proceedure that "must" be followed to make sure both the hand throttle cables and the cruise throttle cables work together.

 

If the cruise cables are to loose, for example, the cruise will not stay on....cause the speed will drop to far before it can engage. Mine drops about 5mph before the vacuum unit catches up. The system is a bit slow.....but there are a couple of simple proceedures... I just hold throttle until the cruise catches up...about 4 seconds. I need to adjust my cables...just haven't got there yet!

 

Check the vacuum hose between the pump and actuator. Check for loose connections at same area. Losing vacuum will make the cruise drop off and not hold speed.

 

Last, you may need up taking the computer out and check for bad solder joints...usually where the connector comes into the computer. If the connectors are corroded, or the circuit boards have a bad solder joint...the unit will be intermittant or worse...

 

Suggest you start in one area and go back over each piece...and then each system..(electrical, vaccum, cables).

 

Please report back what you are finding....lots of help here...lots of experience!

Good luck,

david

[rauvaag]

Ok,

here is what I've done so far:

I have the supplementary service manual explaining how to check the system for failure. I have followed every step in this manual, and everything seems ok. But it still doesn't work.

Checked the vacuum pump by connecting it directly to the battery - OK.

Checked the solenoid valve, both by feel the "click" when I turn the Cruise on and by measuring the resistance - OK.

Checked the actuator by connecting the vacuum pump directly to it and run the pump. The actuator moves, but couldn't move it enough to adjust the throttle. I'm not sure if it's better when thi engine is running or not.

Checked the control unit by following the instructions in the manual, and I also opened it to see if there were any bad connections or something - OK.

Greased all the throttle wires so that they move smoth.

I've also disconnected the trottlewire from the actuator and test drove the bike to see if the actuator moved at all when I tried to set the cruise control. It didn't. I have removed all the plastic items so it's easy to see when driving.

As far as I understand the indicator light should glow somewhat dark when it's in standby and glow brighter when the cruise is set. Mine glows somewhat dark both in standby and in set mode. Can this indicate something?

I've attached some pictures:

[Neil86]

Have you tried testing the actuator using a Mityvac....to ensure it can move full travel?

Do it with cable connected to see it can open the throttle plates.

 

If thats good maybe rig in a vacuum gauge to the pump to see how much vacuum it can produce.

[rauvaag]

Have you tried testing the actuator using a Mityvac....to ensure it can move full travel?

Do it with cable connected to see it can open the throttle plates.

 

If thats good maybe rig in a vacuum gauge to the pump to see how much vacuum it can produce.

 

Yes, I've been thinking about that, but I don't have that. When I tested the vacuum pump it was connected to the actuator and it moved all the way with the wire disconnected. With the wires connected it only moved the free play, but I saw the diaphragm moved and tried to move the wire.

[Neil86]

I would think it takes very little vacuum to move actuator with cable unhooked,

versus connected and opening throttles.

 

You want to make sure the actuator holds vacuum first, then check what the pump is

capable of drawing for vacuum.

[rauvaag]

Yes, it would be a good idea.

But, shouldn't I see some movement in the actuator anyway.

I'm thinking that I might have two issues:

1. The system don't get an input signal to start

2. The vacuum pump/actuator/etc doesn't give enough vacuum to regulate the throttle

 

Is there any way to check the speedometer sensor?

[Neil86]

You can measure the resistance of the speed sensor....its a reed switch that opens and closes

as the speedometer head rotates past. Best bet is to test the wires at the cruise control unit to make sure

its present there, not just at the sensor.

 

Are you noticing if the self cancelling turn signals do not cancel while riding...they use the same sensor to calculate when to cancel.

[videoarizona]

Neil has some good ideas....

 

I'll add that the diaphram in the actuator may be leaking...that may explain why you aren't getting enough cable movement?

 

Can you turn on the system, then as the actuator tries to pull the cables, grab on and pull manually to see if the entire cable system pulls on the throttle plates with your help?

david

[rauvaag]

You can measure the resistance of the speed sensor....its a reed switch that opens and closes

as the speedometer head rotates past. Best bet is to test the wires at the cruise control unit to make sure

its present there, not just at the sensor.

 

Are you noticing if the self cancelling turn signals do not cancel while riding...they use the same sensor to calculate when to cancel.

 

Thank you for good ideas. I have tried to figure out if the speed sensor is working. I'm not sure if the sensor work with the turn signal since it's cancelling as I understand within 10 sec or 150 mts. I've tried to figure this out while driving, but I'm really not sure. I've been thinking about a way to measure it. Maybe by using a drill on the speedometer wire and measuring resistance on the speed sensor while vary the speed on the drill I should read some difference on the sensor. Any thoughts about that?

[Marcarl]

Keep in mind that both brakes, clutch, and possibly the side stand are wired into the CC circuit. Any movement on these will de-activate the circuit, or if any of these are not working properly.

[Neil86]

Bike on main stand, front wheel elevated, give time a spin while testing sensor resistance...should cycle from closed to open.

 

I'd have to try it again on my bikes but I thought the self cancelling only occurs if the bike is moving..

IOW if you turn on signal stopped it will not cancel after 10 seconds. So if the signals are self cancelling there is some kind of speed being detected.

[rauvaag]

Bike on main stand, front wheel elevated, give time a spin while testing sensor resistance...should cycle from closed to open.

 

I'd have to try it again on my bikes but I thought the self cancelling only occurs if the bike is moving..

IOW if you turn on signal stopped it will not cancel after 10 seconds. So if the signals are self cancelling there is some kind of speed being detected.

 

OK.

So what you are saying is that since the turn signal is self canceling the speed sensor is working?

I think I red in the owners manual that the turn signal has two ways of canceling; by 150 mts or 10 sec. Whatever comes first. Isn't this correct?

[Neil86]

Yes....but there is a speed threshold....I believe above a certain speed its 10 secs, below it has to travel 150 ft. Having it cancel after 10 secs stopped to turn at a light would not be good.

Go ahead and try the turn signal with the bike sitting...I believe the signals will keep on

blinking until it detects motion (speed sensor) then it uses the distance from pulses

of the sensor or speed to kick in the timer.

[Neil86]

Had a look at service manual...they state with front wheel off the ground and spinning front wheel by hand you should show a reading of about 7 ohms resistance on the speed sensor then when it comes to a stop it will read 0 ohms or infinity depending on where it stops.

[rauvaag]

Had a look at service manual...they state with front wheel off the ground and spinning front wheel by hand you should show a reading of about 7 ohms resistance on the speed sensor then when it comes to a stop it will read 0 ohms or infinity depending on where it stops.

 

Ok.

I measured it only with the wheel stopped and the reading was about 0 ohms. I'll check with the wheel running one of the days. But I think maybe the sensor is working since the signal light is working according to what you wrote in the last post. I'll check it anyway, just in case...

I'll let you know!

Thanks.