Rear Rotor Opinion

[camos]

I need to get a new rear rotor and have found two different EBC ones on eBay. One is described as semi-floating and the other as solid. They both have the same replacement part number and are the same price. The OEM rotor is the same as the floating rotor. The two rotors are made from different materials.

 

[ame=http://www.ebay.com/itm/111021832181?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT]Solid Rotor[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.ebay.com/itm/330869215355?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT]Floating Rotor[/ame]

 

Any thoughts/opinions on which one would be the better choice - whether it matters and perhaps why?

[Peder_y2k]

Hmmmm..........high friction steel vs. high friction stainless steel. For stainless steel, they (the foundry) throws in a little nickle for corrosion resistance.

Of the two, I'd pick the semi-floating style with the forged aluminum center hub, square rivets, and plain steel rotor friction ring............Just my opinion.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[MasterGuns]

i'd also replace with the semi floating rotor since that is what the bike was manufactured with. that's my 2 cents.

[camos]

Hmmmm..........high friction steel vs. high friction stainless steel. For stainless steel, they (the foundry) throws in a little nickle for corrosion resistance.

Of the two, I'd pick the semi-floating style with the forged aluminum center hub, square rivets, and plain steel rotor friction ring............Just my opinion.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I was leaning towards the semi-floating one just because it looks like the one that came with the bike. Of course, I don't know why the original rotor decided to fall apart so there is still a question about whether perhaps the solid one might be a better choice.

 

Am I making this decision more difficult than necessary?

[Prairiehammer]

I'd replace with the semi-floating. Like MasterGuns says, the OEM is an aluminum spider with semi-floating rotor. Almost identical with the EBC one.

 

Just curious: why do you have to replace your rear rotor?

[camos]

i'd also replace with the semi floating rotor since that is what the bike was manufactured with. that's my 2 cents.

Me too, but what if....???

 

What can I say, I can't seem to make a decision without fussing about it.

[camos]

I'd replace with the semi-floating. Like MasterGuns says, the OEM is an aluminum spider with semi-floating rotor. Almost identical with the EBC one.

 

Just curious: why do you have to replace your rear rotor?

The rotor used to be tight but now it is flopping about. The rivets have become loose for some reason. Not a clue why or what might be the cause of this happening.

[MasterGuns]

Me too, but what if....???

 

What can I say, I can't seem to make a decision without fussing about it.

 

Yes you are. Just purchase the semi-floating rotor and be done with it, And what if what?

[camos]

Yes you are. Just purchase the semi-floating rotor and be done with it, And what if what?

Sage advice I'm sure.

Well.... what if the solid one won't be subject to whatever it was that caused the first one to get loose at the rivets.

 

Perhaps it is just my normal waffle maker decision process.

 

Heck, I don't know!!!

[Prairiehammer]

How many miles on the Venture?

I mean, the OEM went how long? I would think the EBC will last even longer.

[camos]

How many miles on the Venture?

I mean, the OEM went how long? I would think the EBC will last even longer.

The odometer is in Kilometres and only reads up to 99,999. It's reading 42,000 km + (26,000 mi) so the minimum distance would most likely be 142,000 km (88,000 mi) but from how the bike looks it could easily be 242,000 km (150,000 mi), perhaps even 342,000 km (212,000 mi).

[Condor]

The previous owner replaced the rear rotor on my '91. An EBC floater. All I can say it rusts up at the blink of a eye. I think the OEM's are stainless??

[Peder_y2k]

All I can say it rusts up at the blink of a eye.

 

The rust should wipe off with a few brake applications. Stay out of the wet and it won't rust.

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[camos]

The rust should wipe off with a few brake applications. Stay out of the wet and it won't rust.

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Pete, I never would have believed you could be such a big joker. Of course, you were responding to Condor so while it might be possible for him to stay out of the wet it's unthinkable that I limit my riding to just the summer months here on the North Wet Coast.

 

Seriously though, I was about to take everyone's advice and go for the semi-floating rotor but a rusting rotor does not seem to be a very good choice for me. So is there something about the caliper that makes it float or should allow it float? Is there enough possible side movement in the swing arm to require this floating behaviour?

 

The waffle is once again on the table.

[Peder_y2k]

Clive.......... I thought you understood the rear brake caliper 'floats' enough to compensate for uneven disc rotor wear. If your old disc is loose from an incorrectly installed caliper support brace, then you need to review how it is properly assembled. There is a spacer washer (about 4mm thick) that is easily installed on the axle....on the wrong side of the brace. It needs to be on the inside next to the hub, not on the swingarm side. The whole caliper support is free to 'float'/move laterally and to a limited longitudinal angle on its two mounting points. If it is binding due to the washer being in the wrong place, undue stress can be placed on the disc causing damage and uneven wear.

 

Regarding the stainless rotor, it too will corrode, but not nearly as much nor as quickly. If the foundry (metalurgist) puts too much nickle in the steel, it looses heat dispersion qualities and also becomes softer/weaker. Racers don't use stainless, but you are not racing in the carwash where you live.

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[camos]

Clive.......... I thought you understood the rear brake caliper 'floats' enough to compensate for uneven disc rotor wear. If your old disc is loose from an incorrectly installed caliper support brace, then you need to review how it is properly assembled. There is a spacer washer (about 4mm thick) that is easily installed on the axle....on the wrong side of the brace. It needs to be on the inside next to the hub, not on the swingarm side. The whole caliper support is free to 'float'/move laterally and to a limited longitudinal angle. If it is binding due to the washer being in the wrong place, undue stress can be placed on the disc..

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

At this point I don't know what has caused the rotor to become loose. I have probably put only about 10,000 miles on the Venture since getting it four years ago, might be even longer than that. Anyway, have been mostly riding the Virago due to the unending list of things that have had to be fixed on the Venture.

 

The washer on the axle is correctly positioned. I'll have a look at the parts fiche and check the caliper installation as I do not know what enables the caliper to float.

 

Weelll, not racing but perhaps flying. Unlike with the Virago, the Venture does occasionally feel like it's approaching lift off when dealing with traffic on my way to work.

 

Thanks Pete.

[Peder_y2k]

The brace/holder/support is the floaty part. The caliper simply rides on the brace

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[Condor]

The rust should wipe off with a few brake applications. Stay out of the wet and it won't rust.

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

 

Yeah the dew gets pretty heavy down here. Let it sit for a week and it rusts up.... Not sure, but I bet that rust will cause abnormal wear on the pads... Personally I'd search for a used OEM rotor off a later model..'90-'93.. and be done with it....

 

[camos]

I found a '90 VR rotor with 43,000 miles on it at Pinwall for under $43 with free shipping to the US. After carefully considering all the input I decided that would be the best route to take.

 

Thanks a bunch to all for the help.

Special thanks to Peder_y2k who was easily coerced into acting as my delivery agent.