DeeGee Posted July 23, 2014 #1 Posted July 23, 2014 I have been doing some research on plug wires for my bike. Good information here http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/venture%20tips.html I see u can go with the ngk spark plug cap cover and 7mm solid copper wire. I also see him mention something about using plug wires from a 1993 suzuki swift and just cut the one end off that goes to the coil. Has anyone went the suzuki swift way? Not sure where i would get 7mm plug wire from around here. Dan
bongobobny Posted July 23, 2014 #2 Posted July 23, 2014 Great info! Most of us buy ready made plug wire sets off of ebay. Be sure to look at the coil ends for green crud...
Razorback Posted July 23, 2014 #3 Posted July 23, 2014 I bought 7mm Belden solid copper wire from my local NAPA store. Less than $1 per foot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Prairiehammer Posted July 23, 2014 #4 Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) Many years ago, I purchased spark plug wires for a 1994 Suzuki Swift, Autozone part #189740 and #189741 and installed them on my '83 Venture. A caveat: the boot at the spark plug end is intended for an automotive spark plug with the terminal nut installed on the plug end. The motorcycle spark plugs have no nut on the end, just the threaded stud. You will have to install spark plug terminal nuts onto your plugs in order for the automotive wires to make contact onto the motorcycle plugs. http://www.cnphele.com/en/UploadFiles/2009112612541202.jpg Edited July 23, 2014 by Prairiehammer
DeeGee Posted July 23, 2014 Author #5 Posted July 23, 2014 Soo looks like I'm gonna stay away from the suzuki swift wires and just order it by the foot from Napa. Going to call them at lunch. Can anyone tell me or point me in the direction on how to get the coils out?
Prairiehammer Posted July 23, 2014 #6 Posted July 23, 2014 Can anyone tell me or point me in the direction on how to get the coils out? If you are just replacing the spark plug wires, there is no need to remove the coils. I removed the battery box and was able to replace the secondary (spark plug high tension) wires without removing the coils. If you HAVE to remove the coils for some other reason, then you will probably have to remove the fairings, both inner and outer.
DeeGee Posted July 23, 2014 Author #7 Posted July 23, 2014 Ok thanks. I ordered all my stuff from the local motorcycle shop. Everything be in tomorrow
jasonm. Posted July 23, 2014 #8 Posted July 23, 2014 local auto parts store...not national chain...7mm 20 strand wire .35 / ft. I don't like NGK caps . They are 5k ohms. Had them internally separate after 3k miles. Check caps OEM with ohm meter 9-11k ohms is the rating for OEM. Your original caps can be internally cleaned where the resistor and parts sit. You just need a good flat tip screwdriver. You do not clean the resistor...you clean the spring and brass parts with 1500 paper. There is a tiny brass washer...don't loose it. I have had caps reading 11k and cleaned the metal parts and got them to 9.5k ohms. OEM caps are expensive. But well made. The parts are installed spring , washer, resistor. I think...it's been years
DeeGee Posted July 24, 2014 Author #9 Posted July 24, 2014 local auto parts store...not national chain...7mm 20 strand wire .35 / ft. I don't like NGK caps . They are 5k ohms. Had them internally separate after 3k miles. Check caps OEM with ohm meter 9-11k ohms is the rating for OEM. Your original caps can be internally cleaned where the resistor and parts sit. You just need a good flat tip screwdriver. You do not clean the resistor...you clean the spring and brass parts with 1500 paper. There is a tiny brass washer...don't loose it. I have had caps reading 11k and cleaned the metal parts and got them to 9.5k ohms. OEM caps are expensive. But well made. The parts are installed spring , washer, resistor. I think...it's been years What caps would you recommend besides ngk? One of my originals are good. The rest are pretty much toast.
jasonm. Posted July 24, 2014 #10 Posted July 24, 2014 the OEMs... because they are extremely well made. Thus the price of $20+. Like I said you do not change what is not broken. Meaning check your original caps resistance. If they are under 10k..you are good. I have lowered the resistance of good testing ones...just by cleaning. Do a search ..I think others here have posted pictures of OEM caps apart. If you do get NGK. People will disagree... Be prepared to replace at least them every few years. Meaning a little extra wire on each lead.
dna9656 Posted July 26, 2014 #11 Posted July 26, 2014 REAL DIYers install the new ignition wires without removing anything, (my bike does not have the lower fairings installed) you CAN do it by reaching up through the bottom of the fairing by the fork tubes. I put regular rubber grommets on the BACK side of the screw caps (they screw onto the coils) to keep the screw caps from sliding back down the wire into Never Never land (never to be seen/never to be used again). It ain't easy but it's a LOT faster than removing all the stuff that's in the way.
Donvito Posted July 27, 2014 #12 Posted July 27, 2014 Here's a post I wrote with pictures to replace spark plug wires. Hope it helps. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81742&highlight=install+spark+plug+wires
DeeGee Posted July 28, 2014 Author #13 Posted July 28, 2014 I took the battery box out and everything was pretty much right there. Easy job.
videoarizona Posted August 1, 2014 #14 Posted August 1, 2014 Followed advice here.... Took battery box out and checked the wires going into coils. 3 out of 4 were clean with no arcing issues. The 4th had a touch of corrosion on the end. Cleaned the coil tower insides and cut off the corroded end. Put back together. Only question I ahve...is on the left side next to the rear coil there is a green 2 wire plug. Can't see the colors of the wire....but it's not connected to anything. Could not see a mate anywhere nearby. Any idea on what it is?
Prairiehammer Posted August 1, 2014 #17 Posted August 1, 2014 Lol! And... And .... ...it is a green connector body with a brown wire and a black wire.
videoarizona Posted August 1, 2014 #18 Posted August 1, 2014 LOL! Geesh....well everything works and bike runs fine...so...who knows??
Prairiehammer Posted August 1, 2014 #19 Posted August 1, 2014 ...so...who knows?? I told you. I know! Exactly!
videoarizona Posted August 1, 2014 #20 Posted August 1, 2014 Ok I'll bite.. Will you please tell me about that mysterious connector with the green color? And...I have two fuse boxes, the old one sitting on top of the battery and a newer fuse type sitting in front of the battery holder.
bongobobny Posted August 1, 2014 #21 Posted August 1, 2014 Me too!! It's for a... Unless you live in the Granola state don't worry about it...
videoarizona Posted August 1, 2014 #22 Posted August 1, 2014 Wonder if it's the air vent control valve for California models?
Prairiehammer Posted August 1, 2014 #23 Posted August 1, 2014 Ok I'll bite.. Will you please tell me about that mysterious connector with the green color? Gee! No one wants to drag this on for a bit longer? The green connector in question is where the air vent control valve plugs in. Happy now?
videoarizona Posted August 1, 2014 #24 Posted August 1, 2014 Yay...I guessed correctly. Hmm...now wondering if I could use it for something?? Hah! Thank you!
videoarizona Posted August 1, 2014 #25 Posted August 1, 2014 And I have the older style battery....with sensor.... Holding a charge well....guess I'll leave it in. Plus there is a resister in-line with the sensor lead. Interesting what P.O.'s have done.... david
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