Almost completed my check out on my 89 VR

[videoarizona]

Been checking everything out. Did the oil/filter change, changed out the antenna, took the trunk off and cleaned up the Class hardware...cleaned connections and checked hoses, replaced right side front brake pads, bled brakes, and just cleaning everything I see. Got the bike delivered in April and I've been having fun learning. Today, I took the Class computer out, took it apart and soldered the plug connections on the circuit board. Found two bad ones. Works like a champ now. Was intermittent before..

 

Decided NOT to get into the drive shaft and rear end and greasing everything until I get some help. Just not feeling good about dropping front end and messing around with 800 pounds by myself. That and new brake pads for rear are what I have left to do.

 

So far, this forum has been a godsend. Besides the tremendous knowledge available here, the friendship I can see in the banter back and forth makes me feel like I've found a resource that can never be duplicated anywhere else! Best dam $$ I've ever spent...seriously!

Thanks!

david

[jasonm.]

no greasing required till a rear tire change. The rear drive has simple drain and fill. 80w90 gear oil. filler and drain to be torqued 17 ft/lbs. It's easiest to fill using some hose on end of bottle. Otherwise very messy. And carefully check the trunk for cracks. They ALL get cracks....eventually. Can be repaired with Devcon or Permatex brand plastic welder.

[cimmer]

On greasing the drive shaft, all you need to look at is the spline end that slides into the u-joint as the other end in the rear diff is greased by the oil in the rear diff. There is a seal on the drive shaft and I would look at it to make sure that there is no leaks in it and if so you can still get that from Yamaha and replace it. I would look at taking the whole swing arm out and the relay arms and grease all those joints. You might also think about adding grease zerks to the joints so that you can grease them at every oil change. I believe there is an article on do that. Yamaha liked the idea so much that I believe they started adding them to the 90-93 VRs. I would suggest greasing the drive pins in the rear wheel also as this gets overlooked a lot it seems.

I have done this to my 89 VR and it rides nice and smooth compared to before I did all of this.

Good luck.

Rick F.

[KIC]

David,

 

Were you riding in Tucson yesterday ? I saw a 1st Gen on Campbell in the afternoon. Also, we can schedule a time to do you final drive unit since i have done mine and have a tidge of experience now.

[jasonm.]

On greasing the drive shaft, all you need to look at is the spline end that slides into the u-joint as the other end in the rear diff is greased by the oil in the rear diff. There is a seal on the drive shaft and I would look at it to make sure that there is no leaks in it and if so you can still get that from Yamaha and replace it. I would look at taking the whole swing arm out and the relay arms and grease all those joints. You might also think about adding grease zerks to the joints so that you can grease them at every oil change. I believe there is an article on do that. Yamaha liked the idea so much that I believe they started adding them to the 90-93 VRs. I would suggest greasing the drive pins in the rear wheel also as this gets overlooked a lot it seems.

I have done this to my 89 VR and it rides nice and smooth compared to before I did all of this.

Good luck.

Rick F.

I can tell you after 25 years...Do NOT pull the drive shaft out from the drive unit. You GAIN nothing by doing that on a 1300. If it don't leak ,you are good there. The other spots, splines etc. mentioned are important. I did put fittings in the relay arms. Funny they actually have flat spots to locate-line them up.

[videoarizona]

Bill,

 

No...not in Tucson on bike. I'm in Tucson at least once a week at Costco, or visiting the kidlet I have going to school at U of A.

 

Would appreciate the help and advice when it's time. I know you are pretty busy...so I'll call or PM you when I get ready so I can give you plenty of lead time...

 

Thank you,

david

[videoarizona]

Just got back after a 2 hour ride.....getting warm.

 

1: Oil change good. no leaks, Engine/shifting/gear whine is quieter. 20-50 YamaLube. Driveline whine on decel still bothersome but will compare when KIC and I get together.

 

2: Radio/CB/intercom. It's quieter, but no cigar. Still have ignition noise on entire system so the Amplifier must be at fault. No change with electrical load, only rpm.

 

CB seems to work mucho better...heard plenty of truckers....didn't test transmit. I'll wait until I can ride with someone and we will test range. AM/FM works better too. So Firestik is working well.

 

3: Tires are tracking better since I kicked the rear up to max for tire. I was getting cupping running at Yamaha recommended pressure. Ride is a bit harsher, but I can live with that. Rough roads are just that. (suspension set on auto, pos#1)

 

4: Only problem was the rough road broke the tab at bottom of right side panel. I had repaired it with fiberglass and epoxy, but the stress of the rubber band and the roads...did it in. Going to have to rebuild even stronger...fiberglass both sides of tab....the heck with appearances.

 

5: Hit 50 mpg after 126 miles on Odometer...most speeds at 55 t0 60...5th gear. 42mpg seems to be my average for mixture of town/freeway at 65 - 75mph ... so far since May.

 

6: Audio adapter worked fine. Tried it on way home after riding and listening to check out bike. Was really nice to cruze quietly listening to tunes! My Etymotic Research earbuds are worth every penny for the noise reduction and sound quality.

 

I'm learning this scoot!

[videoarizona]

Installed on right side in liu of original. Kept left side original horn working.

 

Geesh...dual tone and loud!

 

Used universal wiring harness they make for Stebel type horns...

[KIC]

If you want to sync your carbs, i have a CarbTune you can use or we can do it at my house.