Huggy Posted July 21, 2014 #1 Posted July 21, 2014 OK I have Skydoc_17's brake delink kit installed but can not get any pressure on the front brake leaver. I get no bubbles out of the bleeders just pumps brake fluid right through the system. Now everything's been cleaned and fixed, rebuilt and the rear brake works like a charm! So what could be wrong?
Rosie1965 Posted July 21, 2014 #2 Posted July 21, 2014 You get no pressure on lever with bleeders closed? Or open?
dvuch1 Posted July 21, 2014 #3 Posted July 21, 2014 Air is almost always the culprit despite getting fluid. Microbubbles that require a bit of time and patience. I use a suction pump on the bleeder.It eliminates the PUMPING and annoyance . .Harbor freight $20. Open bleeder.Use a cable tie on brake/clutch lever.....to keep it open....Apply suction ....keep reservoir full as you suction several batches through.....close bleeder..cut cable tie...should work..
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #5 Posted July 22, 2014 Want some help??? I got a trunk rack for you. Sure Carl, the boss has been helping me up to now! And I refuse to go any further on the bike until I get this done!!
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #6 Posted July 22, 2014 You get no pressure on lever with bleeders closed? Or open? No pressure either way! But the brake fluid has no problem pumping through the system and no bubbles!!
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #7 Posted July 22, 2014 Air is almost always the culprit despite getting fluid. Microbubbles that require a bit of time and patience. I use a suction pump on the bleeder.It eliminates the PUMPING and annoyance . .Harbor freight $20. Open bleeder.Use a cable tie on brake/clutch lever.....to keep it open....Apply suction ....keep reservoir full as you suction several batches through.....close bleeder..cut cable tie...should work.. I may/will give that a try!!
Wizard765 Posted July 22, 2014 #8 Posted July 22, 2014 Something that worked for me a couple of times when I couldn't get the air our of the top.. I pulled in the brake handle about half way and tied it like that over night.. don't know why but it worked..
Flyinfool Posted July 22, 2014 #9 Posted July 22, 2014 A couple of things. Brake fluid destroys things. Especially paint and the plastic bikes are made of. I cover the fairing with a towel then a sheet of plastic and then another towel. Start at the top. With the lid of of the master so that you can see, and the bars turned full left, do a lot of very short pumps of the lever. you will see very tiny bubbles working their way out of the master cylinder piston. I had to do this a lot with the bars turned every which way to get the air out of the nooks and crannies in the piston. Next, bleed at the top banjo bolt they same way as you would at the bleeder. You will see the bubbles squirt out. Repeat at each banjo bolt in the system. Next I use a velcro strap to tie the brake lever fully pulled and let sit over night. This lets the mirco bubbles work their way to the top. before you release the lever crack and retighten the top banjo to let out the air that rose to the top. You may need to do this more than once with the steering turned full left or full right. All of this should get you some useable pressure.
Jayceesfolly Posted July 22, 2014 #10 Posted July 22, 2014 Wayne: Holding the handle partially in allows all the tiny air bubbles to work their way up the hose line to the reservoir. Leaving it over night ( sometimes for 24 hrs) usually helps and you get a good firm handle the next day. The oil is very thick (relatively speaking), so it takes a while for the bubbles to move thru the oil. This procedure worked for me when I put new lines on my 1st Gen. Jim
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #11 Posted July 22, 2014 Something that worked for me a couple of times when I couldn't get the air our of the top.. I pulled in the brake handle about half way and tied it like that over night.. don't know why but it worked.. I had it tied all the way. Will try half way. A couple of things. Brake fluid destroys things. Especially paint and the plastic bikes are made of. I cover the fairing with a towel then a sheet of plastic and then another towel. Start at the top. With the lid of of the master so that you can see, and the bars turned full left, do a lot of very short pumps of the lever. you will see very tiny bubbles working their way out of the master cylinder piston. I had to do this a lot with the bars turned every which way to get the air out of the nooks and crannies in the piston. Next, bleed at the top banjo bolt they same way as you would at the bleeder. You will see the bubbles squirt out. Repeat at each banjo bolt in the system. Next I use a velcro strap to tie the brake lever fully pulled and let sit over night. This lets the mirco bubbles work their way to the top. before you release the lever crack and retighten the top banjo to let out the air that rose to the top. You may need to do this more than once with the steering turned full left or full right. All of this should get you some useable pressure. No plastic on the bike so I'm safe there. I'll try your method if I have no luck with Wizards.
dvuch1 Posted July 22, 2014 #12 Posted July 22, 2014 I would tie the handle all the way back. That way the seep hole is all the way open allowing the air to get out .If its halfway pulled it's not necessarily even engaged yet.
ricksbike Posted July 22, 2014 #13 Posted July 22, 2014 Harbor freight also sells a air operated vacuum pump for about 30 bucks,works excellent..
Neil86 Posted July 22, 2014 #14 Posted July 22, 2014 Now that the system is delinked the rear master is operating 1/2 as many pistons as before and the front twice as many as before. If the pistons were retracted for assembly, after bleeding it will take several strokes to get all the pistons back out and resting on the pad backing plates.
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #15 Posted July 22, 2014 Now that the system is delinked the rear master is operating 1/2 as many pistons as before and the front twice as many as before. If the pistons were retracted for assembly, after bleeding it will take several strokes to get all the pistons back out and resting on the pad backing plates. Well we have pumped it many times already. I will give it another try today and see if there is any movement.
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #17 Posted July 22, 2014 Are the calipers stock Venture units? Yep!
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #19 Posted July 22, 2014 OK brakes are good!! Now Carl if you would like to come down sometime to do a carb sync I'd have no problem with that!!!
Flyinfool Posted July 22, 2014 #20 Posted July 22, 2014 So which trick worked to make the brakes good?
Huggy Posted July 22, 2014 Author #21 Posted July 22, 2014 Oh, should I say! I don't want anyone thinking there way was best do we??? And going NA NA NA NA NA to the others do we? Sure we do!!! I tied down the handle and BEAT the S&*T out of all the connections and the proportioning valve, then the brake calipers, then the master cylinder. Then left it over nite now it's OK!!! Oh yes I used a rubber hammer!!
Flyinfool Posted July 23, 2014 #22 Posted July 23, 2014 LOL If all else fails get a bigger hammer..........:doh:
Huggy Posted July 23, 2014 Author #23 Posted July 23, 2014 LOL If all else fails get a bigger hammer..........:doh: Yes, Bongobobny taught us well!!!!!!
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