brake disk chrome covers

[gggGary]

Found a strato 18 thread.

http://roadstarclinic.com/component/option,com_fireboard/Itemid,1355/func,view/catid,61/id,456413/

[BratmanXj]

Found a strato 18 thread.

http://roadstarclinic.com/component/option,com_fireboard/Itemid,1355/func,view/catid,61/id,456413/

 

That is where I started my research. I planned to do the 130 front on a stock wheel but came across a deal on the stratoliner wheel that is so pretty.

 

What tire do you have on there? Michelin Pilot Active 130/70-18

Was it plug a play or was there dome "fiddling" Fully compatible with the correct size wheel bearings

Any comments on handling before and after? Like most people who've gone to a 130 vs the stock 150 front, lighter steering feel

Will the existing rotors bolt on that wheel? I am not sure, but I believe the rotors are compatible. The bolt spacing and outer diameter are the same but the inner diameter I do not know.

[wizard]

It's back together naked now. It appears the PO had the wheel on backward but now I need to check and see if the tire is on backward. I had the rotors off, is it just my bike or is one rotor on "backwards" on all of them?

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106417&d=1469068496

 

 

I'm trying to break loose the torx, front wheel, but so far no luck. I don't think adding heat will help, but any advise would be appreciated. I tried a drift punch to the center of the trox, but all it did was laugh at me.

[gggGary]

I'm trying to break loose the torx, front wheel, but so far no luck. I don't think adding heat will help, but any advise would be appreciated. I tried a drift punch to the center of the trox, but all it did was laugh at me.

 

Heat probably would help but brake rotors, concentrated heat, quiver, shake. I used the 1/2" air gun. on a NEW torx socket. May have also used a hand impact wrench, remember to alternately, loosen, tighten even if it doesn't move, the back and forth eventually breaks them free. Add rust buster too. Then clean the rotor thoroughly with brake cleaner. Definitely was time for new bolts, button heads needed the allen heads were too tall, hit the caliper or fork leg.

[gggGary]

PS blue locktite on the bolts from the factory.....

[wizard]

I don't have access to a air gun, and I now need to buy a new torx socket. I just butchered the only two I had. I had not thought about using liquid wrench. Tomorrow is another day. Thanks!

[baylensman]

Attempt to remove the bolt first with the correctly sized end wrench or socket. Purple 222 will break free with 20 foot-pounds of torque or less, while Blue 242 will hold to about 50 foot-pounds. If you've got red Loctite, don't bother trying to break it free; Red 271 is rated for about 3,000 psi of shear strength.

 

• Break out your propane or acetylene torch. If you're using acetylene, you need little more than a smoky, yellow "starter" flame to heat the Loctite to its 550-degree-Fahrenheit melting temperature. The yellow starter flame provides more than enough heat to do the job.
   
  
• Apply heat to the bolt head or stud with your torch, just touching the metal with the end of your flame. The trick here is to keep the torch moving around the bolt or stud to evenly heat it, and not to get in a hurry. It's best to avoid heating the bolt up any more than necessary, and to give the heat a little time to work its way down through the metal and to the Loctite. Some like to heat the bolt to a dull red to be sure, but that's a bit overkill.
   
  
• With the bolt still hot, extinguish your flame and immediately fit the proper socket or wrench with a long breaker bar attached. Apply steady pressure, and the bolt should come free with little more than the amount of torque it was originally tightened to.
  

[gggGary]

A heat gun puts out a lot of heat, and is not as aggressive as a torch............. You have 12 bolts to do, heating the hub good and warm is not unreasonable.

[wizard]

Thanks everyone. I'm now looking for a 1/2 drive # 40 torx socket. I checked the shops here, but there are none to be had. I'll be heading for the big city this weekend.

[gggGary]

My sprinter van uses a single torx fastener to hold the brake disk in place after the lug nuts are removed. BRUTAL tight and rusted. socket had given up. ground it back a bit to better edges, then welded on a bar sticking out directly sideways close to the torx bit. Held with a long extension in the socket drive I could then give the bar a sharp smack with a hammer without twisting the bit sideways. Victory.

You could also drill a hole the diameter of the bolt head in a piece of sheet metal so you can apply the torch without heating the chrome cover.

[wizard]

Got it. I used a torch to heat the bolt,and a new torx. Only had to drill out 1 bolt, the one I butchered up trying to break loose without the heat. I'm going to replace all of the bolts, so where is the best place to purchase them?

[BratmanXj]

Got it. I used a torch to heat the bolt,and a new torx. Only had to drill out 1 bolt, the one I butchered up trying to break loose without the heat. I'm going to replace all of the bolts, so where is the best place to purchase them?

 

My local Ace Hardware caries a selection of Chrome bolts. They know when I walk in to go unlock those bins since I'm always messing with the bike.