Trailer wire connection and hitch

[ENG2242]

I assume my 2013 RSV has a 5 wire set-up, therefore requiring a 5 to 4 adaptor. Can this be placed under the driver seat and tap into the wires that run over the rear fender? Also, what hitch do most seem to utilize? Thank you very much. David

[etcswjoe]

Get the wiring harness adapter from M61A1MECH it will make it much easier to connect your trailer adapter. I use the Hoppy isolated adapter from Autozone I think it's around 45 to 50 bucks and it draws the power from your battery so if you get a short in your trailer the bike lights still work.

 

Here is the link to the harness adapter.

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4200&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-royal-star-venture&cat=35

 

Adapter

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Hopkins-Trailer-Tail-Light-Converter/_/N-a8pa0?itemIdentifier=70605_534335_0_

Edited July 18, 2014 by etcswjoe

[XV1100SE]

Definitely get the harness from M61A1MECH so you don't have to splice in.

 

I had an unpowered 5-to-4 converter and noticed that my under trunk LED brake light would flash when a turn signal was on. I posted recently about resolving the issue by replacing the old 5-to-4 with a Reese Tow Ready Modulite 119148 (119147 is the same thing but without additional power wiring). Cost me $85 CDN but it works ! Noticed that my trunk wing light is brighter now too.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Not everyone agrees, but in my experience, its easier and less troublesome to simply convert the trailer to 5 wire.

 

The 5 to 4 converters work sometimes, sometimes they dont.

 

If you convert your trailer to match the bike, rather than the other way around, it will always work well.

 

It does involve a bit more work, but the results are worth it.

 

 

 

[Venturous Randy]

Not everyone agrees, but in my experience, its easier and less troublesome to simply convert the trailer to 5 wire.

 

The 5 to 4 converters work sometimes, sometimes they dont.

 

If you convert your trailer to match the bike, rather than the other way around, it will always work well.

 

It does involve a bit more work, but the results are worth it.

 

 

 

'

 

This is what I did on my 83/camper. I used a five/six wire connector and used red LED lights for the running and brake and used amber LED lights for the signal lights. To me, this is the easiest way to do it and I don't have to use any converters to mess with.

RandyA

[Condor]

'

 

This is what I did on my 83/camper. I used a five/six wire connector and used red LED lights for the running and brake and used amber LED lights for the signal lights. To me, this is the easiest way to do it and I don't have to use any converters to mess with.

RandyA

 

I wonder why the MC trailer builders don't make them 5 to begin with. I just added a Voyager kit to my '04 and it's a 5 wire. I agree about splicing into the brake and running with Steve's adapter. I my case it'll be 3 piggybacked. One for the isolater/trailer, one for the Voyager, and one for one of Steve's lightbars. It gonna be interesting...and crowded

 

[Flyinfool]

Installing an isolator is not just for if the trailer wiring shorts out. After all that is a very low probability failure mode.

The biggest benefit of the isolator is take the load of the trailer lighting off of the bikes electrical system. The wire sizes and the switch contacts are just enough for the bikes stock lighting they are stressed to carry a lot of extra load.

Some people would be surprised at just how much power even LEDs can draw.

So even if you are doing a 5 wire trailer it is still a good idea to use an isolator.

[playboy]

Get the wiring harness adapter from M61A1MECH it will make it much easier to connect your trailer adapter. I use the Hoppy isolated adapter from Autozone I think it's around 45 to 50 bucks and it draws the power from your battery so if you get a short in your trailer the bike lights still work.

 

Here is the link to the harness adapter.

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4200&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-royal-star-venture&cat=35

 

Adapter

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Hopkins-Trailer-Tail-Light-Converter/_/N-a8pa0?itemIdentifier=70605_534335_0_

 

 

That adapter is not compatible with LED lights

 

Definitely get the wiring harness

[dacheedah]

I have http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-connectors/power-taillight-converters/power_taillight_converter_solid_state.html a 5 to 4 adapter so I can plug the trailer into a car plug also. I have nothing but LED s on the trailer and it works awesome. I did run a high center light and used a diagram that flyinfool provided. in this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68383

[XV1100SE]

... I my case it'll be 3 piggybacked. One for the isolater/trailer, one for the Voyager, and one for one of Steve's lightbars. It gonna be interesting...and crowded

 

I'm running out of room under my seat too !

I spliced into M61'a harness and split each lead into a female butt connector for future growth. Did female connectors so nothing shorts out.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Some people would be surprised at just how much power even LEDs can draw.

So even if you are doing a 5 wire trailer it is still a good idea to use an isolator.

 

With all due respects to Jeff...he is extremely knowledgable but that does not mean we always agree.

 

In my previous post I did not go into technical details, since I've posted those many times on this forum, but the basics for converting the trailer to 5 wire are:

 

Convert all the trailer bulbs and/or fixtures to LED. (use good quality LEDS or preferably, LED modules)

 

Install a center mount LED brakelight (or a pair of them) on the trailer, or convert the existing lamp fixtures to have seperate brake lights, running lights, and turn signals.

 

Run a new brake light wire up to the connector.

 

Use any desired 5, 6, or 7 way connector...you will need just 5 circuits...one of them is ground.

 

Fuses can be used in the 4 powered circuits to protect the bike wiring in the event of a short or damaged wire.

 

Normal LEDs...used in modest amounts, will not load the bike electrical system at all, and all flashers and functions will work perfectly. No isolator or converter will be needed.

 

 

If you like, you can parallel this configuration on the same wiring harness with an isolator, and then you can ALSO hook up to any 4 way trailer connector. My bike is set up with two trailer connectors, a 4 way and a 5 way. I can pull either type.

 

Works great!

 

Edited July 19, 2014 by tx2sturgis

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I wonder why the MC trailer builders don't make them 5 to begin with.

 

Some of them do...or used to...but of course many owners ride up to the showroom/dealer/vendorbooth with a 4 way connector on the bike and the manufacturers have been 'trained' by us to supply the trailer with the 4 way connectors.

 

 

 

Edited July 19, 2014 by tx2sturgis

[Freebird]

I agree. A lot of the trailers that folks buy are not specifically designed for motorcycles. They are designed to be pulled behind compact cars and/or motorcycles. Many trailers that are actually designed as motorcycle trailers do have motorcycle type lights. I know that my Bushtec does and have seen others that do as well.

[Flyinfool]

With all due respects to Jeff...he is extremely knowledgable but that does not mean we always agree.

 

Normal LEDs...used in modest amounts, will not load the bike electrical system at all, and all flashers and functions will work perfectly. No isolator or converter will be needed.

 

 

Works great!

 

 

Normal LEDs in modest amounts is the key. That is why I said "Some people would be surprised at just how much power even LEDs can draw." It is not that we disagree, I do agree with you if we include your disclaimer.

 

But then I have never been accused of doing anything in a "normal" way.

 

My trailer is all LED, In modest amounts, but not normal. I have all high brightness LEDs. My trailer has only one fixture more than the minimum required by law. and that one more is a center brake light with 3 running LEDs and 8 more that come on bright with the brakes.

My trailer pulls 3.5 amps with all LEDs lit. That is 49 watts, almost the same as the headlight. This would be withe the brakes on. That is a lot for our wimpy electrical systems.

 

Some of the newer High output LEDs actually pull more power than the incandescents they are replacing.

 

Each person must evaluate the combination of parts that they have chosen for their trailer. The better quality stuff will tell you its power requirements and light output.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

My trailer pulls 3.5 amps with all LEDs lit. That is 49 watts, almost the same as the headlight. This would be withe the brakes on. That is a lot for our wimpy electrical systems.

 

 

 

And of course if that was a constant electrical drain, it would be important to consider.

 

But 99% of the time when touring, with a trailer, only the 'running' LEDs would be lit. Less than one amp when using normal LEDs in the taillights, license plate light, and possibly a couple of small marker lights. You could measure it to confirm this.

 

The full electrical drain only occurs with brakes on and 4-way flashers on.

 

Intermittent use of the brakes and turn signals will not be much of a 'load' on the system.

 

So...we both are right, and in the real world, it will work just fine.

 

The good news about this is...its always a riders choice...and thats a good thing.