front brakes weak

[sleadhed]

I cant seem to find the thread I was looking at here. it was on replacing the two piston front calipers on stock RSV with R1 or R6 four piston calipers. I was at the dealer yesterday and looked at the new and R1 & R6

It looks to me that the calipers on the new models will not bolt up. they did not have any used ones in the store so I cant say about the older model years. however I looks like the FJR calipers will bolt up.

If the R1 & R6 calipers will bolt on to the RSV, What year calipers do I need to find to bolt on to a 2007 RSV. There seem to be many to choose from on e-bay. If I up grade I want to be sure to get the ones that will bolt up.

And I am aware on the difference in master cylinder piston size between the two bikes (R1 and RSV)

[Squeeze]

Any of those Calipers who look like they would fit, will fit.

 

The newest Models of R1 or R6 are using radial mounted Calipers and these are definitely different looking.

 

FJR, R1, R6, TDM(don't know if they are sold now) are all the Calipers.

 

Here's a recent Thread about the Issue ...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19838

[Semi-retired]

Old thread, I know, but "everything old is new again"......especially weak brakes!

 

Have read MOST of the posts under brakes and calipers and pads, etc, but not seeing much about doing an actual "tuneup" on the master cylinder.

 

I'm getting ready to go on a three-day trip this weekend....and, YES, I should have thought of this earlier, but my front brake has been getting gradually "stickier" all season.

 

By sticky, I mean the LEVER seems to be going step-by-step towards the grip when I pull on it, as opposed to a nice smooth, consistent travel.

 

When I look at the "action spot", where the little adjustable pushrod moves in and out, it does it all herky-jerky-ish.

 

Is there something that needs lubing in there? Or elsewhere?

 

Oh, and please guys, don't mean to be "picky" at this stage......but, this close to departure day, PLEASE don't recommend ANYTHING that's gonna end up needing BLEEDING! I don't have that much patience.......or that many days!! :-)

 

P.S. I should have mentioned......I appreciate that these are crappy brakes, but I'm gonna do what I can with the OEM stuff at this stage (selling soon anyway).......AND I have cleaned and lubed both sets of calipers!

Thanks,

m

Edited July 4, 2018 by Semi-retired
typo

[cowpuc]

Old thread, I know, but "everything old is new again"......especially weak brakes!

 

Have read MOST of the posts under brakes and calipers and pads, etc, but not seeing much about doing an actual "tuneup" on the master cylinder.

 

I'm getting ready to go on a three-day trip this weekend....and, YES, I should have though of this earlier, but my front brake has been getting gradually "stickier" all season.

 

By sticky, I mean the LEVER seems to be going step-by-step towards the grip when I pull on it, as opposed to a nice smooth, consistent travel.

 

When I look at the "action spot", where the little adjustable pushrod moves in and out, it does it all herky-jerky-ish.

 

Is there something that needs lubing in there? Or elsewhere?

 

Oh, and please guys, don't mean to be "picky" at this stage......but, this close to departure day, PLEASE don't recommend ANYTHING that's gonna end up needing BLEEDING! I don't have that much patience.......or that many days!! :-)

 

P.S. I should have mentioned......I appreciate that these are crappy brakes, but I'm gonna do what I can with the OEM stuff at this stage (selling soon anyway).......AND I have cleaned and lubed both sets of calipers!

Thanks,

m

 

M,, I have absolutely no idea if this will help and any way but what you describe as what you are "feeling" in your brakes like something I have "felt" in the brakes of my bikes many times over and,, especially when "flying" a bike in the air when doing a jump on a MX track (brake application in the air is how most of us MXers control the attitude of the bike when air born), correcting that sticky/notchy feeling is mandatory.. Below is one of the main maintenance "tools" that I have used (right or wrong,, it has worked for me) thru the years.. Its fairly simple, no bleeding necessary , and easy enough to do that I employ it every time I swap tires or have to remove the calipers for what ever reason.. When you mention cleaning the calipers,, I had to ask myself if this was part of the cleaning brother? If you got a second,, you might find this helpful,,,, maybe - maybe not.... If nothing else,, if may be entertainment to view while waiting for the brake guru's to jump in here

 

[Semi-retired]

M,, I have absolutely no idea if this will help .......If nothing else,, if may be entertainment to view while waiting for the brake guru's to jump in here

 

 

Thanks very much.......from ONE Scott to another!

 

Coincidentally, I was just out buying the "real" brake cleaner when your post came in. (I had tried to do the job with brake fluid......but it just doesn't clean the way "cleaner" does! DOH!!)

 

So, yes, NOW I will utilize your wrap around the t-shirt method of cleaning off that exposed portion of piston crud/crap....although I'm not putting new pads in at this time, so it shouldn't be quite as "critical" as it would be with new pads...where a big %age of the exposed piston HAS to get pushed back into the cylinder.

 

I'm hoping that just by cleaning the crud off THERE......AND off the pad contact spots, that I MAY have my problem solved.

 

You didn't mention anything about the Master Cylinder, so.......assuming there's nothing that CAN or SHOULD be done up there to smooth things out?

 

Thanks again.......very entertaining!

 

Mike SCOTT. :-)

[Marcarl]

I didn't watch the vid, but here is my thoughts. Did you by chance swap the brake pads around?, did you check for lubrication on the swivel part of the brake handle so that the handle itself moves smoothly?

Now don't you go leaving the driveway with brakes in less than perfect working order. As mentioned elsewhere, Venture brakes are not known to be the top of the industry, they do work well if in pristine condition, but if there are issues? best leave it in the drive rather than have to walk home, or worse.

[Semi-retired]

I didn't watch the vid, but here is my thoughts. Did you by chance swap the brake pads around?, did you check for lubrication on the swivel part of the brake handle so that the handle itself moves smoothly?

Now don't you go leaving the driveway with brakes in less than perfect working order. As mentioned elsewhere, Venture brakes are not known to be the top of the industry, they do work well if in pristine condition, but if there are issues? best leave it in the drive rather than have to walk home, or worse.

 

Hey, Carl, thanks for "chiming in". I appreciate your brotherly/fatherly concern and advice.

 

1. When you ask DID I "by chance swap the brake pads around?"....that sounds equally like it could be the WORST thing or a GOOD thing! LOL

So, did you mean it to say, "For crying out loud, I hope to hell you DIDN'T swap the brake pads around......by accident....when you were playing with them???"

Or did you mean, "Well, I hope the very first thing you did to try and solve your sticky brakes problem was to swap the pads around...cause EVERYbody does that first!!"??

 

And, if you DO want me to "swap" them, do you swap INNER for OUTER on each side? Or swap BOTH pads from the LEFT side of the wheel over to the RIGHT side of the wheel? (There are a FEW 'options' here. :-)

 

2. I actually don't even have the right side caliper/pads removed yet. But, what I DID notice on the left ones, is that the backing plate of the INNER pad only, is bone dry and covered with rust; doesn't even seem to have the thin, silvery, looks-like-an-anti-squeal clip attached to the back of it, as the outer one has; almost as though it is meant to be a "non-functioning", stationary, device. Is this the way it's SUPPOSED to be/look?

 

3. Pretty sure my brake lever IS lubed up; after all, it's the ONLY thing that moves that can be easily accessed. BUT, I'll give it another shot of white, lithium grease.

 

Should I be calling you? :-)

P.S. I did put 100k on the bike on Canada Day and it stopped at every corner. Just took a bigger handful than I'm used to applying.

Thanks again for your ever-vigilant attention, Carl. You're the only one who looks after me since Squidley became a Suthener!

Edited July 5, 2018 by Semi-retired
typo

[Marcarl]

Hey, Carl, thanks for "chiming in". I appreciate your brotherly/fatherly concern and advice.

 

1. When you ask DID I "by chance swap the brake pads around?"....that sounds equally like it could be the WORST thing or a GOOD thing! LOL

So, did you mean it to say, "For crying out loud, I hope to hell you didn't swap the brake pads around......by accident....when you were playing with them???"

Or did you mean, "Well, I hope the very first thing you did to try and solve your sticky brakes problem was to swap the pads around...cause EVERYbody does that first!!"??

And, if you DO want me to "swap" them, do you swap INNER for OUTER on the same side? Or swap BOTH pads from the LEFT side of the wheel over to the RIGHT side of the wheel? (There are a FEW 'options' here. :-)

 

2. I actually don't even have the right side caliper/pads removed yet. But, what I DID notice on the left ones, is that the backing plate of the INNER pad only, is bone dry and covered with rust; doesn't even seem to have the thin, silvery, looks-like-an-anti-squeal clip attached to the back of it, as the outer one has; almost as though it is meant to be a "non-functioning", stationary, device. Is this the way it's SUPPOSED to be/look?

 

3. Pretty sure my brake lever IS lubed up; after all, it's the ONLY thing that moves that can be easily accessed. BUT, I'll give it another shot of while, lithium grease.

 

Should I be calling you? :-)

P.S. I did put 100k on the bike on Canada Day and it stopped at every corner. Just took a bigger handful than I'm used to applying.

Thanks again for your ever-vigilant attention, Carl. You're the only one who looks after me since Squidley became a Suthener!

 

1) If you swap pads around and the rotors aren't perfectly smooth, then the grooves in the rotor will mismatch with the grooves in the pads and you'll have airspace between the two, and that is the wrong idea for stopping. Hence if you put new pads on used looking rotors it will take a bit for the pads to wear in. So, DO NOT swap them! renew them if they are wore down.

 

2) Both pads should be the same, although only the outer might have an anti-squeal pad. Doesn't hurt the braking effect,just has a noise dampering effect. If you have squealing then if you champher the leading edge at 45 degrees it will also get rid of any squealing. So the look should be OK.

 

3) Not too much lube or it will get to the Master Cylinder and that is NOT good for the brake rubbers.

 

4) Stopping at all the corners is encouraging, but if you do it right and can plan it, you could have stopped at all those corners without any brakes. You could just slow down earlier, use you feet, get a parachute or drag a big rock. It's when you need to stop expectantly that good braking becomes a demand item, and you wish that you had paid more attention to the slowdown effect. If you did everything you could or could have been done, you would have no remorse, and you wouldn't be saying, I should have,,,,,,,,,

[saddlebum]

If you do put new pads on old rotors Also chamfer the side edges a bit but on a flater angle than 45 say greater than 60 deg, you want just a very minor 1/4" wide relief on the side edges, this helps the pad get more face contact with the rotor. Old rotors usually have a ridge about 1/8" to 1/4" wide on the inner and outer diameter. This ridge will hold a new shoe up off the major surface of the rotor until they wear in. by putting a slight bevel (and dont go crazy) on the inside and outside edges of the new shoes the shoe can settle in between these ridges and wear into the rotor faster giving you more initial contact area other wise your only initial contact area will be on these ridges until the shoe wears in.

[Patch]

So one thing I see wasn't mentioned above is that filing or sanding down pads should be done in a bucket of water or in a sink with running water. The idea is to trap dust and flush, think about it.

 

https://www.asbestosnetwork.com/High-Risk-Occupations/Auto-Mechanics.shtml