Clutch Upgrade Tips

[FuzzyRSTD]

I have a 2007 Royal Star Tour Deluxe and I just did the clutch upgrade kit from Skydoc_17. Thanks Skydoc for a good product and instruction sheet. Everything is done and back together. I just want to add a few notes and photos that I think will help someone else, along with the Tech Library write up from Tartan Terror. Thank you Tartan Terror for your help.

#1. The small wire is located at the very last as you take out the friction disc. It is very small and there was no photo depicting it so I took a photo of it before taking it out. It is on the left of the photo at the dark mark in the rear. The wire is wrapped and in a notch around the splines.

 

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#2. After you get the last steel plate out, then the half friction disc. This is what you will see.

 

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#3. When putting the pressure plate back on, this is what you are looking for when Tartan Terror mentions the dots to align back up with the punch marks on the pressure plate and next to one of the bolt towers. First photo showing the pressure plate punch marks.

 

 

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Now this photo shows the punch mark next to the bolt tower. I had mine marked for reference but I still wanted to make sure they where aligned properly.

 

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Also my clutch basket had the two dots to the 11 o'clock position and one dot at the 5 o'clock position. This is opposite from Tartan Terrors description. But thanks to Skydoc_17 I now understand why.This turns and will not be the same as described. Also the alignment of all the dots is not why i had the problem. It was because of the weaker spring that I replaced with new upgrade. Can't wait to try it out.

Edited June 30, 2014 by FuzzyRSTD
Correcting errors and idiot words.

[FuzzyRSTD]

Here is my clutch disc alignment photos before I removed them and did the Skydoc_17 upgrade. I believe this is why I had slippage once in the first place. My clutch basket was replaced earlier on my bike. Looks like the dealer mechanic did not align them properly.

 

 

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[Cougar]

When upgrading to lets say Barnett clutch disk there are no disc alignment marks,

when I removed my OEM disks the disc alignment marks were all over the place.

that was from the factory as well.

[djh3]

So what does the wire do? Does it hold a section of discs in? Does it go back in when you add the extra disc? On one of your last pics you show the cover/pressure plate with the dot. I guess that goes at same place as the previous pic with dot on drum.

Mine is still good to go, but If/when I need to do this info is good.

[FuzzyRSTD]

So what does the wire do? Does it hold a section of discs in? Does it go back in when you add the extra disc? On one of your last pics you show the cover/pressure plate with the dot. I guess that goes at same place as the previous pic with dot on drum.

Mine is still good to go, but If/when I need to do this info is good.

 

It keeps the last steel plate and last half disc in place. Remove the wire and discard, along with two other small steel rings about 1/4" across and the half clutch disc that are behind the last steel disc. Also discard the clutch spring that you took off in the beginning.

Then replace with Skydoc_17 upgrade,the heavier clutch spring, full size clutch disc, and new gasket in this order.

#1. Replace the half disc with the full disc that has been soaking in the Yammy oil. After removing the steel small 1/4" wide steel rings.

#2. Start the reverse process of putting in the steel plate- clutch disc-steel plate-clutch disc-steel plate-clutch disc and so on. I also did the roughing up of the steel plates before putting them back in.

#3. Lastly put the heavier clutch spring in, paying attention to the small steel ring that goes behind the clutch spring. You will hardly know that is there with out looking. The oil held it in place on my job. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518

NOTE; Have yourself as I did, a 5 mm allen wrench cut to approximately 3/8" long on the short side as noted by Tartan Terror, or else you will have to remove the exhaust. There are three bolts that will have to be removed with the allen wrench. Thanks to Tartan Terror for the good tech write up on this to, he mentions this also. I had to remove my Steble horn to.

Edited June 29, 2014 by FuzzyRSTD