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Posted

I want to put a VMax or FJR1300 final drive in my 90 VR. What years of VMax and FJR final drives should I look for? Also do I use the 90's drive shaft with these?

Thanks.

Posted

Wow, that's an informative link! I'm going to have to look into the possibility that mine might have the "pre-V-Max" gearing due to it being an earlier '83. Always find something new on this site, even if that info is from a 5-year old post!

 

-Andrew

Posted

I emailed Skydoc_17 and he sent me the following reply:

The FJR1300 Final Drive is NOT a direct bolt on item. There are parts that

need to be custom machined. The VMAX Final Drive is the way to go. How the

shim goes is you would "dry mount" the rear wheel and the Final Drive on the

axle letting the nose of the Final Drive unbolted. There will be a gap

between the nose of the Final Drive and the flange of the drive shaft tube.

It will not be equal all the way around. You will take a shim set and

measure top and bottom, and each side. Write the 4 numbers down, and divide

by 4 to get the shim thickness. You will need to measure the nose of the

VMAX Final Drive for the center hole in the shim. (A little larger here is

OK) You will need to measure the diameter of the Final Drive studs for the 4

holes that also need to go into the shim at the four corners. I make my

shims out of Aluminum. It's easy to work with and does the job nicely. Since

I have moved to a new location, my machine shop is not set up right now. I

am unable to machine any parts currently. I wish I could help you more, but

at this time, I don't have access to my mill and lathe. I hope this info

helps.

Looks like I need to stay with the VMAX final drive.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just put a 91 VMAX final drive (had 17K miles on it) in my 90 VR Saturday. I left the nuts loose that bolt the drive to the drive shaft housing. When I put the axle in and tightened the nut, there was no gap. I tightened the 4 nuts and took the nut off the axle. The axle pulled out easy and slid back in with 2 fingers. I guess it varies from year to year whether a shim is needed. I filled it with Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil.

I test rode it for about 2 miles on the access road. It seems quieter than the original. I rode it to work yesterday and today. It runs good and is much quieter. The original unit had the nut broken off the pinon gear therefore making lots of whining when decelerating. I notice only small difference in RPM. Was at 70 3900, now 4200 PRM.

I guess it is a case by case basis whether a shim is needed or not. Maybe since the years were only one apart it fit correctly without a shim.

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