Lighting up my rear end

[XV1100SE]

My current converter is not powered and would prefer to have a powered one. Some would disagree but there was a difference in how the trailer lights worked for four-ways or when the engine wasn't running.

 

Been searching online for the "Tow Ready Modulite" converters but can't seem to find places I normall shop that carris them. Next step will be to call trailer stores.

 

I know the Modulites are made by Reese but ones I've come across say "Reese" and don't look like the Modulites.

[thecount]

Installed my prior diode isolated harness. Still has a signal flasher effect on brake. Not on run light with signal. Guess I won't brake and turn.

 

Don

You can get the diodes at Orion electronics. I found that this is the same as I build for my one string of LED lights with a voltage reducer. This would have led at 50% for run and 100% for brake. I am going to put that wire piece back in to see if it revolves the issue.

S2

[Flyinfool]

You really should not have to add any diodes to an isolator or a converter to make it work.

If you need additional diodes to prevent back feeding, something is not right somewhere.

 

My converter has now been on the bike for 4 years and still works correctly. Solid state electronics should not die of old age. especially not in just a few years. I would be POed if it did not last at least 20 years.

 

Question to M61A1MECH;

On the splice that you make for the second gen, do the pigtails coming out match the bikes wire colors or the industry standards for tailer wiring? This could be part of the problem as to whether yellow is left turn signal or brake light etc.

 

Wire colors;

bike - converter - function

black - white - ground

yellow - red - brake

green - green - right turn signal

brown - yellow - left turn signal

Blue - brown - tail light

[bongobobny]

Don, I had the same issue with my 5 wire to 4 wire non isolated converter, where the brake lights that the converter was powering were affected by the turn signals, and inserting the diode fixed it...

 

I never took the time to analyze WHY it worked, it just plain fixed the problem, end of story!! Now, I may not have put the diode on the input of the converter, I may have put it on the brake line OUT of the converter. I would have to empty my trunk and look as that is where the problem was, on the converter I installed originally on my light bar and then the lights mounted on the trunk. The trunk lights was the first issue I had but not right away. The same 5 to 4 converter I use on my trailer now as well...

[bongobobny]

The more I thought about it I put the diode on red wires so it is the OUTPUT of the converter..

[Guest tx2sturgis]

If you have an LED brakelight conversion, I will direct you to my solution from 2008:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=206400&postcount=5

 

It has been working flawlessly for 6 years now.

 

[M61A1MECH]

FlyingFool I match the bikes wiring scheme.

[XV1100SE]

I ordered the 119148 from a local RV store ($85) and will have it on Friday. Should know by the end of the weekend whether this solves the issue.

http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-hd-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPU1Rk03rwmUUzXnrm32u2ms=

[thecount]

Good luck Don.

Hope this is your solution.

 

 

I ordered the 119148 from a local RV store ($85) and will have it on Friday. Should know by the end of the weekend whether this solves the issue.

http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-hd-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPU1Rk03rwmUUzXnrm32u2ms=

[XV1100SE]

I got the Tow Ready (Reese) Modulites, 119148 from a local RV shop (had to order it). It is an 119147 but has extra cable for power and a fuse module. $85.

 

Put it on the bike tonight and my trunk LED no longer flashes when the signals are turned on. It is a powered unit and corrected the issue I had.