XV1100SE Posted June 27, 2014 #1 Posted June 27, 2014 ....on the bike. On my '09 RSV some of the first additions I did was trunk wing and Custom Dynamics LED brake light and run/turn/brake signal lights. I've seen the under trunk LED light bars but hadn't seen any that had the "look" that I wanted...until I saw a light bar "The Count" (Steve) recently purchased. Slim, and black with lots of LED's...brake, but not turn. I checked pricing from the States but shipping to Canada was going to be $50 plus possible customs broker fees. I did a search for Canadian shops that carry Rivco and found one 15 minutes away from where I live - Vicious Cycle in New Dundee. I had purchased a couple Stebel horns from them and because pricing was reasonable from them, I called asked them if they could get the light bar for me and a flasher controller since they carry Rivco but didn't have the items listed on their web site. Price on he LED light bar was $6 more than the Rivco list price and the flasher was $3 more....and I didn't have to pay for shipping (picked it up). Okay...so what did I get (and pictures/video to come) ? Rivco "Super Bright Trunk Mount LED Tail and Brake Light" - http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=61&cat=0&page=1 It is 18” long, has 24 super bright LEDs and functions as both a tail and brake light. The curved arms make the light too long but it comes with metal "L" brackets that mount the light to the helmet locks. Also... LED Flashing Brake Light Modulator - http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=25&cat=0&page=1 Option of having the brake light flash 3 times per second continuously or can be set to flash/blink for 5 seconds and then remain on until brake is released and reapplied. This is set by connecting two green wires to have them flash constantly. The only light I connected to the flasher is the under trunk mount LED. My trunk wing light, centre brake light, and turn all stay on constantly. I set the trunk mount LED to flash constantly when the brake is applied. When I post a video later you'll see solid brake lights in a diamond shape with the flashing brake light in the centre. If anyone in Canada is looking for decent prices on items, check out Vicious Cycle's web site or call them and tell them what you want. Good people to deal with. http://aviciouscycle.ca/MainPages/Default.aspx (no affiliation). And again... yes, pictures to follow !
Flyinfool Posted June 27, 2014 #2 Posted June 27, 2014 Sounds good. But here the constant flashing red light is a no no. The police don't mind the ones that flash for a few seconds and then go solid, but continuous flashing red is for emergency vehicles only, and will get you a discussion on the side of the road.
bongobobny Posted June 27, 2014 #3 Posted June 27, 2014 How to light up your rear end. First apply the front brake, then rev the engine to about 6000 RPM, then pop the clutch and hang on... Oh, you mean with lights!
speakerfritz Posted June 27, 2014 #4 Posted June 27, 2014 Sounds good. But here the constant flashing red light is a no no. The police don't mind the ones that flash for a few seconds and then go solid, but continuous flashing red is for emergency vehicles only, and will get you a discussion on the side of the road. yes...red, blue, or flashing of any color that can be seen from the front or back is a no go in NYS. side flashing is ok, but if they flash in an intersection you fall under the criteria restricting flashing red, blue, etc to emergency vehicles.
XV1100SE Posted June 27, 2014 Author #5 Posted June 27, 2014 Easy enough to change it from constant flashing when the brake is applied to 5 seconds of flash then solid. Just have to disconnect two wires from each other. Thanks for the input !
thecount Posted June 27, 2014 #6 Posted June 27, 2014 So , guess you like the unit I showed you? Trust it went on very easy. Doing mine this weekend is the plan. S2 ....on the bike. On my '09 RSV some of the first additions I did was trunk wing and Custom Dynamics LED brake light and run/turn/brake signal lights. I've seen the under trunk LED light bars but hadn't seen any that had the "look" that I wanted...until I saw a light bar "The Count" (Steve) recently purchased. Slim, and black with lots of LED's...brake, but not turn. I checked pricing from the States but shipping to Canada was going to be $50 plus possible customs broker fees. I did a search for Canadian shops that carry Rivco and found one 15 minutes away from where I live - Vicious Cycle in New Dundee. I had purchased a couple Stebel horns from them and because pricing was reasonable from them, I called asked them if they could get the light bar for me and a flasher controller since they carry Rivco but didn't have the items listed on their web site. Price on he LED light bar was $6 more than the Rivco list price and the flasher was $3 more....and I didn't have to pay for shipping (picked it up). Okay...so what did I get (and pictures/video to come) ? Rivco "Super Bright Trunk Mount LED Tail and Brake Light" - http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=61&cat=0&page=1 It is 18” long, has 24 super bright LEDs and functions as both a tail and brake light. The curved arms make the light too long but it comes with metal "L" brackets that mount the light to the helmet locks. Also... LED Flashing Brake Light Modulator - http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=25&cat=0&page=1 Option of having the brake light flash 3 times per second continuously or can be set to flash/blink for 5 seconds and then remain on until brake is released and reapplied. This is set by connecting two green wires to have them flash constantly. The only light I connected to the flasher is the under trunk mount LED. My trunk wing light, centre brake light, and turn all stay on constantly. I set the trunk mount LED to flash constantly when the brake is applied. When I post a video later you'll see solid brake lights in a diamond shape with the flashing brake light in the centre. If anyone in Canada is looking for decent prices on items, check out Vicious Cycle's web site or call them and tell them what you want. Good people to deal with. http://aviciouscycle.ca/MainPages/Default.aspx (no affiliation). And again... yes, pictures to follow !
XV1100SE Posted June 27, 2014 Author #7 Posted June 27, 2014 So , guess you like the unit I showed you? Trust it went on very easy. Doing mine this weekend is the plan. S2 Went fairly easy. If you need help or have questions, let me know. The spacing is pretty tight for the bracket to the helmet hooks. Loosen the rubber so you can get in behind to put the bolt/nut on.
thecount Posted June 30, 2014 #8 Posted June 30, 2014 Installed mine. I trimmed the rubber so the L bracket was a metal to metal fit. Yup, fits good and tight. Did you notice much difference between run light and brake light? S2 Went fairly easy. If you need help or have questions, let me know. The spacing is pretty tight for the bracket to the helmet hooks. Loosen the rubber so you can get in behind to put the bolt/nut on.
XV1100SE Posted June 30, 2014 Author #9 Posted June 30, 2014 Did you notice much difference between run light and brake light? S2 There is a good difference in brightness
thecount Posted June 30, 2014 #11 Posted June 30, 2014 There is a good difference in brightness Guess I will switch the wiring to see if there is a difference. Was worth the "ask":fingers-crossed-emo S2
bongobobny Posted June 30, 2014 #12 Posted June 30, 2014 Yup! You have the running light and brake light wires mixed up! Did the same thing on a set of running/turn signals on the trike...
thecount Posted July 1, 2014 #13 Posted July 1, 2014 If that is all that I have mixed up, I'm a lucky man. 2 crossed wires and she's still is married to me for 30 years. Yup! You have the running light and brake light wires mixed up! Did the same thing on a set of running/turn signals on the trike...
XV1100SE Posted July 1, 2014 Author #14 Posted July 1, 2014 Will post this here and if no responses will create a separate thread... When I hooked up the trunk LED I had Nancy hit the brake while I was standing behind it and everything looked great. I was going to post a video of how having only the trunk LED flashing looks so I put the camera on a tripod and then did the turn signals to show the Custom Dyanamics run/turn/brake, then the brakes. When I watched the video back, I noticed that the trunk LED flashed when the turn signals were on. So.... back to the drawing board, reconfirm where I had spliced in. I have M61's wiring harness and off the leads I have a 5-to-4 trailer converter attached. I spliced into the leads from the bike (before the converter) and confirmed I'm spliced into the correct wires. I have my converter connected with male/female plugs so it was easy to remove the converter. With the converter removed, all the lights worked properly. Put the converter back in, and the brake light flashes when the turn signal is on. I'm thinking that the 5-to-4 converter is feeding back thru the brake wire. (with the 5-to-4 converter the brake combines with the left/right turn signals). I'm going to email Rivco, but any suggestions?? Was wondering if a powered converter would do the trick.
M61A1MECH Posted July 1, 2014 #15 Posted July 1, 2014 This is interesting because angryjoe is having a very similar issue, where every thing works properly until he plugs in his trailer. With trailer plugged in the brake light function on his light bar illuminate, but not on full intensity, when he applies the brake the light bar comes on full intensity. he is also using a powered 5 to 4 converter. I suspect he has a voltage leakage problem in his converter, I am not sure what they use in the converters, but I suspect transistors or an IC chip along with some diodes. I can not see where anything else in the system would be able to do what he has described. Keep us posted if you learn anything.
XV1100SE Posted July 1, 2014 Author #16 Posted July 1, 2014 Mine happens without the trailer connected. As soon as I remove the converter/isolater my issue goes away. The 5-to-4 way converter at some points "crosses" the brake and turn signals. That is feeding back to the bike but only affects the first device spliced in before the converter (my trunk light bar). My Custom Dynamics run/turn/brake, Custom Dynamics 100 LED brake light, trunk wing light are not noticeably affected. I emailed Rivco to see if they have any suggestions and will post their response.
XV1100SE Posted July 1, 2014 Author #17 Posted July 1, 2014 I'm thinking I need a "modulator"/converter like http://www.reeseprod.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=2&parentid=1500&catID=1535&part=0 ... and "Designed not to send feedback thru the vehicle circuits" That opens up a question... is the RSV 4.2 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 7.5 amps for the Taillight circuit or other?
bongobobny Posted July 1, 2014 #18 Posted July 1, 2014 Don, all you need is a diode, 1N4001, in series with the yellow wire going to the 5 to 4 wire converter. The stripe on the diode body goes on the converter side. The diode is a one way switch for electricity, it allows electricity to go only one way and not the other, so it stops the feedback from the turn signal back to the brake line. Buy one at Radio Shack, should only be a toonie. 1N4001 through 1N4004 will work fine!
Flyinfool Posted July 1, 2014 #19 Posted July 1, 2014 Another thing to check is if your converter is designed for use with LEDs. Many of them are not and will cause feedback issues since they are using the light filament as a ground. The current that is being grounded will not light an incandescent bulb but will light an LED. The converters made for use with LED will say so on the packaging or on the converter its self.
XV1100SE Posted July 1, 2014 Author #20 Posted July 1, 2014 Don, all you need is a diode, 1N4001, in series with the yellow wire going to the 5 to 4 wire converter. The stripe on the diode body goes on the converter side. The diode is a one way switch for electricity, it allows electricity to go only one way and not the other, so it stops the feedback from the turn signal back to the brake line. Buy one at Radio Shack, should only be a toonie. 1N4001 through 1N4004 will work fine! i take it this would go on the brake wire between the converter and where I spliced into the bike wiring to prevent electricity flowing back to the bike wiring (only need one diode). Or are you suggesting it go on the Stop/turn conductors (so I'd need two diodes)? Another thing to check is if your converter is designed for use with LEDs. Many of them are not and will cause feedback issues since they are using the light filament as a ground. The current that is being grounded will not light an incandescent bulb but will light an LED. The converters made for use with LED will say so on the packaging or on the converter its self. The converter I have is for both incandescent and LED lighting. I made sure it was correct when I bought it a couple years ago. Given that it is a couple years old... possible I need to replace the converter? Do they fail after a while?
thecount Posted July 1, 2014 #21 Posted July 1, 2014 Don You can get the diodes at Orion electronics. I found that this is the same as I build for my one string of LED lights with a voltage reducer. This would have led at 50% for run and 100% for brake. I am going to put that wire piece back in to see if it revolves the issue. S2
djh3 Posted July 1, 2014 #22 Posted July 1, 2014 I probably have a spare or 2 in the tool box I could throw in an envelope.
XV1100SE Posted July 1, 2014 Author #23 Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) Response from Reese - "Suggest any of our Modulites, 119147, 119179, 119180 etc.." http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-hd-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPav2ON633OLUqSOx9ExZOG0= "rated for up to 4.2 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 7.5 amps for the Taillight circuit" http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPQVnxcZ30CmEQTveMPZumQg= " rated for up to 2.1 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 5.6 amps for the Taillight circuit" http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPe5OReCcqZL3yqFLUPFvxf8= "rated for up to 2.1 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 5.6 amps for the Taillight circuit" I think the rated numbers above might be the deciding factor - anyone comment on the differences? Each one shows the same description : - Draws power directly from the vehicle battery and uses less than 5mA of the vehicle circuit for sensing to turn the trailer functions on and off - Will work with either LED/Incandescent bulbs (vehicle & trailer) - Has integrated re-settable Short Circuit and Overload protection, to safeguard itself and the tow vehicle from shorts and installation wiring mishaps - Designed not to send feedback thru the vehicle circuits - The trailer brakes will override the hazard lamps when the brake is activated - The taillight circuit has been upgraded to work with vehicles that use a pulse width modulation (PWM), this will allow the converter to turn on fully and gives the trailer lights full brightness during activation - Will work with most vehicles that have a multiplex system for lighting - Will not work with vehicles with low-side switch - Can be used on a 2 wire or 3 wire system - All solid-state components in potted encapsulation - Includes integrated protective cover Edited July 3, 2014 by XV1100SE
XV1100SE Posted July 1, 2014 Author #24 Posted July 1, 2014 Response from Rivco : The SBRKL and FLSH unit should have nothing to do with your trailer wiring. The SBRKL and FLSH units should be wired to your bike’s stock harness before any converter or trailer wiring. What I think is happening is that after you have combined your brake and turn functions going from a five wire system to a four wire system you have splice in your SBRLK unit thus causing it to flash when you use the turn signals. I know I'm spliced in on the right side of the converter. Issue has to be with the converter itself. Trying to source the Modulite but it's a holiday in Canada today so will have to make calls tomorrow.
bongobobny Posted July 1, 2014 #25 Posted July 1, 2014 Just one diode on the brake line (Yellow) should do the trick, it did for me...
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