Clutch slipping - upgrade help needed

[Freebird]

That could well be your problem. Look at the label. I THINK that oil will be marked "energy conserving". If so, it is not a good oil for these bikes. The same oil that you put in your engine also goes into the clutch. They will make the clutch slip.

[Seaking]

Hi everyone... since this thread is fresh I rather ask my question here than to start a new one.

 

My 05 RSMV has only 12K miles on it. I bought it less than 60 days ago. Last weekend I went to Ocean City, MD Bike Fest and in my way home I wanted to test top speed of this bike. I know this is not a super fast cruiser... so please bear with my idiotic need to test top speed. I still have my RS Warrior and the change has been dramatic for me, even though I love this bike.

 

The point is that when I was doing around 120 (max of the speedo, which in reality is around 115mph) at that point the clutch started slipping. I said Oh men what I have done?... well now after that day every time I try to roll hard on 4th gear or 5th to pass a car or something, the clutch start slipping.

Did I damage the discs for putting the bike is such stress? Is there anything I can do besides replace the clutch. I am mechanically inclined... but also in on the learning process... so any help will be highly appreciated..

 

The bike is amazing at those speeds.. thrilling!

 

however I wouldn't think you did any damage to the clutch.. at worse you simply put a shine on the steel clutch plates. You can take apart the clutch plates assembly and put the wet/dry emery to the steel plates to take the shine off.. (in a criss cross pattern from the center outwards).. This should revitalise your clutch plates again.. inspect your friction plates to make sure they are still in good shape. Bleed the brake fluid in the clutch system and give it a try.

[Neil86]

You might also verify the compensating port in the master cylinder is clear.

Its the smaller port on the top of the master cylinder bore that allows the fluid to return to the reservoir when lever is released.

If it plugs off (takes very little to plug) even with lever released, engine heat will heat the fluid in the clutch line and if it can't expand through the port, the pressure starts increasing in the slave and opposing the clutch spring to cause slippage.

Edited September 18, 2014 by Neil86

[Flyinfool]

I am using full Synthetic 10W-40 Valvoline... just change the oil 600 miles ago

 

That could well be your problem. Look at the label. I THINK that oil will be marked "energy conserving". If so, it is not a good oil for these bikes. The same oil that you put in your engine also goes into the clutch. They will make the clutch slip.

 

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

 

Most automotive oils will make the clutch slip.

You need an oil that specifically says on the container that it is for a wet clutch.

 

Using the wrong oil will not do damage as long as you stop letting the clutch slip and change it out to an appropriate motorcycle oil. I use the Valvoline 10-40 Motor Cycle oil.

 

Unless you are using the Valvoline 4T Stroke Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil.

 

Be gentle on the clutch for a while while the old oil works it way out and the new oil works its way into the clutch. It may take a second oil change after 3-400 miles to flush out all of the old oil. There is about a half quart that does not drain when you do an oil change. You can get some of that half quart to drain by removing the bottom screw on the middle gear cover on the left side of the engine. You will want to have a new copper crush washer handy if you are going to pull that screw.

 

When refilling oil, no more than half the way up the sight glass with the bike upright and level.

 

As for the diaphragm spring, it dies of old age, miles have little to do with it.

Edited September 18, 2014 by Flyinfool