GilbertHall Posted June 12, 2014 #1 Posted June 12, 2014 Loud shifting clunks starting out, right before it left me a pedestrian. when we loaded it into the pick-up bed. it starts to move, then slips (like the splines or middle pinions stripping) I first thought the u-joint was in two or more pieces, but a visual inspection yielded u-joint intact. I figured I'd ask the 1st Gen gurus. I have down loaded the factory PDF manual. Thinking about looking for a Clymer V-max manual for rear swing arm removal. Thoughts/suggestions.
dingy Posted June 12, 2014 #3 Posted June 12, 2014 You might have broken the final drive pinion gear shaft. Attached picture shows exploded parts view. #16 is part that may have failed. Forward pointing shaft that connects to #22 has been known to break. #22 in turn connects to drive shaft. Gary
GilbertHall Posted June 12, 2014 Author #4 Posted June 12, 2014 I like Clymer's bolt by bolt (driveshaft removal) guess I'll see if there is a Clymer for the V-max
bongobobny Posted June 12, 2014 #5 Posted June 12, 2014 Yes, if you remove the rubber boot around the front u joint you can have someone watch to see if the driveshaft goes around when in gear. If it moves and the rear wheel does not, then it's a rear end problem. If it does not move then the problem is in the output of the transmission...
Venturous Randy Posted June 13, 2014 #6 Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) How often have you removed the rearend and removed the drive shaft and grease both ends and the coupling? If you have not done it, I suspect you will need a drive shaft and a coupling. There are some on ebay right now. One more thing, you do not need to remove the swing arm to check the drive shaft. You can take off the bags and take the brake caliper off, undo the axle, remove the brake caliper bracket. If you have a problem pulling the tire out, you can pull the rearend by undoing the four nuts on the housing and pull the rearend off. The drive shaft may come out with the rearend or not. If it doesn't, just pull it out. One thing to watch for is there is a washer on the axle and make sure you put it back in the same place. RandyA Edited June 13, 2014 by Venturous Randy
Peder_y2k Posted June 13, 2014 #9 Posted June 13, 2014 Your public profile indicates you have an '83, and those early models '83-'85 have a weak rear spline design that strips out when not perfectly maintained. Usually, both the axle and splined coupler need replacing. More cost effective to upgrade to the '86-'93 improved design. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
GilbertHall Posted June 13, 2014 Author #10 Posted June 13, 2014 How often have you removed the rearend and removed the drive shaft and grease both ends and the coupling? If you have not done it, I suspect you will need a drive shaft and a coupling. There are some on ebay right now. One more thing, you do not need to remove the swing arm to check the drive shaft. You can take off the bags and take the brake caliper off, undo the axle, remove the brake caliper bracket. If you have a problem pulling the tire out, you can pull the rearend by undoing the four nuts on the housing and pull the rearend off. The drive shaft may come out with the rearend or not. If it doesn't, just pull it out. One thing to watch for is there is a washer on the axle and make sure you put it back in the same place. RandyA I have never had the rear end off. Thanks to your bolt by bolt description, I'll start tackling this next. Thanks so much.
GilbertHall Posted June 13, 2014 Author #11 Posted June 13, 2014 Your public profile indicates you have an '83, and those early models '83-'85 have a weak rear spline design that strips out when not perfectly maintained. Usually, both the axle and splined coupler need replacing. More cost effective to upgrade to the '86-'93 improved design. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA The stripping rear spline noise transfers to the transmission side (unless the front splines stripped) As soon as I get the drive shaft out, I'll know. Thanks for the input.
GilbertHall Posted June 25, 2014 Author #12 Posted June 25, 2014 It is the Rear Spline of the Driveshaft. When you talk of the "axle" & "coupler" I'm sure you mean the driveshaft & female coupler gear. Now I'm off to find replacements. P.S. The stripping noise telegraphed to the transmission end of the driveshaft.
Venturous Randy Posted June 25, 2014 #13 Posted June 25, 2014 It is the Rear Spline of the Driveshaft. When you talk of the "axle" & "coupler" I'm sure you mean the driveshaft & female coupler gear. Now I'm off to find replacements. P.S. The stripping noise telegraphed to the transmission end of the driveshaft. That was what I was afraid of. There has been a final drive listed and relisted on ebay for $4.99 about three times, but I just looked and could not find it. There were also two driveshafts listed as of yesterday. RandyA
Peder_y2k Posted June 25, 2014 #14 Posted June 25, 2014 Yeah.....that's it, shaft and coupler.......not axle and coupler. You are better off with new if they are still available. Used from any source could already be half worn out. If you've got the money, consider swapping to an '86-93 type that has a different lubrication system. They should fit and there are some writeups here. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
GilbertHall Posted June 25, 2014 Author #15 Posted June 25, 2014 "All bikes run on used parts" "used does not mean used up" "This is not a junk yard, we are a parts recycling center":fingers-crossed-emo
Dano Posted June 25, 2014 #16 Posted June 25, 2014 I've got an 86 rear end and shaft with only 26,000 miles on it.....ready to go for another 140,000.....let me know what you'd give for it plus shipping....
dna9656 Posted June 25, 2014 #17 Posted June 25, 2014 I have 2 rear wheel/differential assemblies. I do not have the swing arms that go with them or the drive shafts. Is there a way of knowing if they are 83 to 85, I don't know what a 86 and up looks like....
Prairiehammer Posted June 25, 2014 #18 Posted June 25, 2014 I have 2 rear wheel/differential assemblies. I do not have the swing arms that go with them or the drive shafts. Is there a way of knowing if they are 83 to 85, I don't know what a 86 and up looks like.... The '83-'85 final drive housings have a 'starburst' pattern to the exterior reinforcing ribs. The '86-'93 are much smoother and less busy in appearance.
GilbertHall Posted June 28, 2014 Author #19 Posted June 28, 2014 The re-connectomy was a total success. These are amazing machines, and thanks for all the advice.
GilbertHall Posted November 9, 2014 Author #20 Posted November 9, 2014 The tuning forks are definitely harmonizing now. Three day fall foliage tour around Columbia, MO. I had monkey butt by Sunday.
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