Trailer wheel bearings

[saddlebum]

Always learned to tighten to set the bearing into the race, then back off and finger tight plus 1/4 turn. Wheel should spin freely but when grabbing the outside of the tire and pulling side to side you should have no play.

Unfortunately this is a common method and one I too was taught 40 years ago when I started out as an apprentice Mechanic. But it is not the correct way and one that has often resulted in bearing failure. One of the factors being that one persons idea of finger tight is not always the same as another's. The 1-7 thousands of an inch or a hair amount of free play allows for expansion of the hub as it warms up preventing the bearings from becoming too tight during operation. Bearings which become too tight begin to heat up and is why you often see them come out a straw color even though they have plenty of grease.

[Goose68]

I have this trailer and have had very good luck with it. Does anyone know the size of bearing buddy needed for this trailer. Thanks

[XV1100SE]

I have this trailer and have had very good luck with it. Does anyone know the size of bearing buddy needed for this trailer. Thanks

 

From other threads :

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=755052 - This is an odd sized dust cap and is not carried by some places. It measures at 2.06" So those that would like to use A Bearing Buddy would use #2047.

 

Bearings are Timken 30205M 25mmx52mm taper bearing

Harbor Freight Tag-a-long trailer uses a grease seal that is 30x52x10mm.

[videoarizona]

 

Late to this thread but:

 

If grease comes out of seal, too much grease put in. Bearing Buddies are good for any trailer and when installed and maintained properly, will last without maintenance issues.

 

Bearing buddies....best thing I've ever bought for the boat!

 

Here's how I do it...FYI.

 

I remember talking to a lady who worked for bearing buddies to confirm how to use them. She told me:

 

1: clean and inspect bearings. Replace marginal ones. Use only USA made bearings. Check real seal. Clean and/or replace.

 

2: HAND pack bearings (place grease in palm and mush the bearings into the grease). Use only a good waterproof grease. I use the marine grease at an auto store. Blue/green in color.

 

3: When done install bearings, tighten to seat while spinning wheel and then loosen until there is just a tad of play. The play is very important. You should be able to grab the wheel in both hands at 12 and 6 o'clock or 9 and 3... and get a slight wiggle out of wheel. If not, bearing is to tight and will get hotter than it should. Add cotter pin, add bearing buddy. Add grease in BB until the outer plate starts to move out. Stop.

 

4: Drive for about 30 minutes or more at highway speeds to get the bearings warm...this will push the air out. Stop and refill bearing buddy...adding just enough grease to push the spring out about 1/4 inch. (less than halfway).This should be the perfect 2-3 pounds of pressure.The bearing buddy plate will move in/out as temps change...this maintains proper pressure, keeping water and dirt out, without blowing rear seal.

 

5: Now drive on the trip. Every stop...check hubs...should be at ambient temp or a tad warmer if on a road with high crests.

 

That's it! She said if you bought good bearings and did the hand packing AND kept checking them....the bearings should last for years!

 

She's right. It's been 8 years now....and only one bearing was checked and found bad....so it was replaced just last year. The rest are still original since I put them on in Spring of 2006 for the trip across the US and back. All I've done is once a year, pull off the bearing buddy, Clean them, check the bearings for play and noise (spin tire and listen), rear seal for leaks and bad watery grease.....then refill and put the buddies back on. I don't take the bearings out, no need and they are seated nicely! I've made 2 cross-country trips to New Hampshire and back to AZ,(over 16K miles), plus numerous trips to San Diego and Marina Del Ray near Los Angeles in the heat of the Arizona summer without one bearing failure. I'm towing 4200 pounds. I did have one bearing buddy fly off on I-8 at 65mph. Temps were 112 that afternoon. Replaced in WalMart parking lot and on way again.

 

Anyway...I'm pleased with those little things. They do work...

 

So...even a teeny trailer for our bikes can benefit from BB's, if you can find them for the small size axles. Even without, I've changed the way I clean, lube and take care of bearings...soley based on my experiences with a 2 ton boat.

 

FYI...

david

[BlueVenture87]

You do need to fill the entire cavity with grease. That's how new hubs come in the can around here. The grease is then changed by pumping new through the zerk at the back and out through the cap in the front, passing through both bearings Check the link to a video to show how these work.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466886_200466886

 

Later!

 

-JK

[dacheedah]

Learned to tighten the bearings to 50 ft lbs to seat, then back off and hand tighten plus 1/4 turn or where the cotter goes. Wheel should turn freely. Bearing buddies only keep water out and hold grease against the bearing and do work well but nothing replaces hand packing and checking or replacing the seals and bearings. Annual ritual for 4 trailers, a couple hours in the comfort of my yard replaces many uncomfortable hours on the side of the road in the middle of no where. Extra set of bearings pre packed in trailer is good cheap insurance.

[FuzzyRSTD]

This has been a good learning thread here. Thanks to all for the information. But I have to agree with some others about the BBs, good for a boat trailer and other heavy use trailers. But for the motorcycle trailers, I would rather inspect and grease by hand every year or so. Also allows me to use my chrome center caps. IMHOpinion.

 

 

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