MiCarl Posted June 7, 2014 #1 Posted June 7, 2014 I have a 2008 RSV in the shop that developed ignition ticking in the intercom. Investigation showed that disconnecting the #4 ignition coil eliminated the noise. The passenger audio cable was routed right alongside the #4 cable and well anchored so it's been there since before the noise began. Re-routing the cable along the center of the frame, away from the coil, has eliminated the noise. I'm wondering why this would occur after being fine previously. Do any of you with audio or ignition knowledge know whether I should suspect the coil or a bad ground on the audio cable?
djh3 Posted June 7, 2014 #2 Posted June 7, 2014 I dont know. But I will tell you the intermittent audio buzz/click with the intercom has been a PIA. I have read just about everything I have ran across to try to eliminate it. Short of removing the intercom cables and rerouting them. Mine seems to get worse if steering is moved one way VS another, but still have a buzz if you intercom volume to high. I have pulled the connectors apart under the faring and cleaned and greased them and I dont think it really helps much IMOP. In your case it kind of sounds like the straw that broke the camel's back for whatever reason. Maybe just that extra bit of corrosion on a connector somewhere. Once in awhile I will plug in something on the aux cable and it will have terrible interference. Plugging and replugging dont help, and if I look close I clean the push connector and it will have just a smidge of ick on it. Piece of scotch brite and it seems to fix it.
MiCarl Posted June 7, 2014 Author #3 Posted June 7, 2014 I dont know. But I will tell you the intermittent audio buzz/click with the intercom has been a PIA. I have read just about everything I have ran across to try to eliminate it. Short of removing the intercom cables and rerouting them. Mine seems to get worse if steering is moved one way VS another, but still have a buzz if you intercom volume to high. I have pulled the connectors apart under the faring and cleaned and greased them and I dont think it really helps much IMOP. In your case it kind of sounds like the straw that broke the camel's back for whatever reason. Maybe just that extra bit of corrosion on a connector somewhere. Once in awhile I will plug in something on the aux cable and it will have terrible interference. Plugging and replugging dont help, and if I look close I clean the push connector and it will have just a smidge of ick on it. Piece of scotch brite and it seems to fix it. In case you want to try my "fix". The passenger audio cables run along the right side of the frame, under the #4 plug wire and right beside the coil (#4 is the only one exposed by simply removing the tank). There are two cables there and you can sort out the correct one by moving it away from the coil while listening. I re-routed the offending cable along the top of the frame, to the left of the coolant fill. I didn't have to disconnect the cable but did unfasten the coil rather than fishing the plug wire out. Quiet as a church mouse now.
MikeWa Posted June 7, 2014 #4 Posted June 7, 2014 I think when the Ventures were built there was a world wide shortage of shielded wire. Mike
EtRider Posted June 7, 2014 #5 Posted June 7, 2014 I have a 2013 with only 3000 miles and mine just started doing that on my last trip. I am going to do what you suggested and move the wire. Thanks for the info.
djh3 Posted June 8, 2014 #6 Posted June 8, 2014 So I wonder, would this "backfeed" from the passenger through the whole system? I wonder if wrapping either wire in say another piece of like split fuel line to help shield would help.
MiCarl Posted June 8, 2014 Author #7 Posted June 8, 2014 So I wonder, would this "backfeed" from the passenger through the whole system? I wonder if wrapping either wire in say another piece of like split fuel line to help shield would help. It's not backfeed. It's ignition noise being picked up by the wiring for the passenger mic. Adequate grounded shielding should solve the problem. I thought of shielding the cable but couldn't come up with a quick, easy, cheap solution. It just occurred to me that shielding the coil should do the trick. That would be easy to do with a piece of a tin can bolted right up with the coil mounting bolts.
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