YamaDuck Posted June 8, 2014 Author #26 Posted June 8, 2014 I didnt order a bleeder bag. I have been using a qt oil bottle I have drilled a hole in cap and have a piece of hose that fits secure on the bleeder. Goes in bottle then into waste oil jug. Probably serves same purpose, but I already had the bottle. I went ahead and ordered the bag. I figured it was easier to order the bag and tube than to find a container and and a hose that fit. The tube was the biggy. I could have gone to the store once I had the speed bleeders and saved three or four dollars. It's only
djh3 Posted June 8, 2014 #27 Posted June 8, 2014 Yea I know. Sometimes your money ahead to just order the silly things instead of trying to build them yourself. I have used these for years at the race shop so I had them around. LOL I just went thru a fluid change on mine this week. I went and bought a $35 vacuum Mytee or whatever bleeder. Not real impressed. It draws fluid OK but when you take a couple pumps then you get all these tiny bubbles coming into the hose. They say this is normal and is from around the sides of the bleeder. Well then how do I know I got all the air out of the line if I'm getting bubbles in the hose? I would have been money ahead to just buy the speed bleeders. For you once you get the slave cylinder changed, try just opening the bleeder on the clutch and let it flow without any pressure (gravity feed) Once you get decent flow then pressure bleed should take less time and most of the air will be out.
YamaDuck Posted June 8, 2014 Author #28 Posted June 8, 2014 I agree with you, if you see tiny bubbles then to me that means air. I just placed my order today. Bought the slave and parts #23, 24, 25, and 26 along with the case gasket and a case gasket for the other side so if I decide to put my other basket back in (they both whine) and the little copper washer that goes under the screw at the 6 o'clock position from Partzilla. Partzilla was $12 cheaper than Yamaha Sports Plaza.
rougeray Posted June 8, 2014 #29 Posted June 8, 2014 Yea I know. Sometimes your money ahead to just order the silly things instead of trying to build them yourself. I have used these for years at the race shop so I had them around. LOL I just went thru a fluid change on mine this week. I went and bought a $35 vacuum Mytee or whatever bleeder. Not real impressed. It draws fluid OK but when you take a couple pumps then you get all these tiny bubbles coming into the hose. They say this is normal and is from around the sides of the bleeder. Well then how do I know I got all the air out of the line if I'm getting bubbles in the hose? I would have been money ahead to just buy the speed bleeders. For you once you get the slave cylinder changed, try just opening the bleeder on the clutch and let it flow without any pressure (gravity feed) Once you get decent flow then pressure bleed should take less time and most of the air will be out. Chances are you were sucking air around the threads of the bleeder. I had the same problem the other day. When I purchased my Speed Bleeders I also purchased the thread sealer. I did something stupid the other day that I won't go into and I had to completely bleed the rear brake system which meant I had install the original bleeder and use the vacuum bleeder. I could not get all the air bubbles out till I removed the bleeder and applied the thread sealer.
M61A1MECH Posted June 8, 2014 #30 Posted June 8, 2014 Not sure if this was mentioned in this thread or not, I may have missed it, but if you are having issues getting all of the air out, you can tie back the lever against the grip and leave it over night the air will tend to migrate up out of the lines into the master cylinder. This works on the brakes as well as the clutch. A little careful tapping or vibrating on the lines can help to shake the bubbles loose that may be clinging to the inside if the lines or fittings, just do not over do it to where the fluid starts to splash out of the master cylinder if you have the cover off. Brake fluid eats paint and plastic for breakfast, lunch and dinner, if any is spilled on painted or plastic surfaces get it off immediately and wash the affected area off with soap and water and then rinse completely.
Phoneman1981 Posted June 8, 2014 #31 Posted June 8, 2014 I learned a lot by reading this post. I recently installed a longer front brake line. Got along along fine. Bleeding with a syringe worked but was a two man process. Since then I ordered speed bleeders for the entire bike and a vacuum pump. Ready to tackle replacing the clutch and rear brake lines now. I think another Colorado Wyoming and Western NE. Maintenance day is in the works.
bongobobny Posted June 8, 2014 #32 Posted June 8, 2014 Teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder helps...
YamaDuck Posted June 9, 2014 Author #33 Posted June 9, 2014 Teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder helps... Good Idea! I did not order the thread sealer because in the pictures they all show a band of something on the threads I thought was thread sealer or Lock-tite or something. I will definitely try the Teflon tape. Thanks!
djh3 Posted June 9, 2014 #34 Posted June 9, 2014 He may be talking about when using the vacuum pump to bleed. I did see something about thread sealer on OEM type when bleeding with the pump. The Speed Bleeders should be OK as like you mentioned already have thread sealant.
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