YamaDuck Posted June 6, 2014 #1 Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) BIG problem. I thought my clutch was just low on fluid but I topped it off and still have the same problem. Cranked the bike up in neutral as I have always done this morning. Pulled in the clutch to put it in first gear. Pulled just like it always has but that only lasted a second. As I put it in first gear the clutch lever got real easy to hold in and as I sifted to first gear the bike died. As I pulled the clutch lever in it would pull in real easy. It still has a very little resistance. The lever does not flop around. The shifter got real spongy feeling and you have to stomp on the shifter to get it into another gear and you feel and hear a lot of noise when it shifts. It is very difficult to find and hit neutral. Oh and one other thing I noticed, with the lever pulled all the way in the clutch plates are not completely disengaged. In other words if I so much as ease up on the pressure of the lever any at all the bike starts to move. Even with the lever in all the way it will try to move a little. Harry:crying: Edited June 6, 2014 by YamaDuck
bongobobny Posted June 6, 2014 #2 Posted June 6, 2014 Flush and bleed your master and slave (the whole system). Also check that little pinhole bleed hole on the bottom of the reservoir, it may be plugged...
YamaDuck Posted June 6, 2014 Author #3 Posted June 6, 2014 Flush and bleed your master and slave (the whole system). Also check that little pinhole bleed hole on the bottom of the reservoir, it may be plugged... Ok I will but I need to find my shop manual first to see how to flush the system. Where is the pinhole? Inside the reservoir or outside the reservoir? Harry
Money Venture Posted June 6, 2014 #4 Posted June 6, 2014 "Also check that little pinhole bleed hole on the bottom of the reservoir, it may be plugged..." It's called a spooge hole. (For lack of a better term).
Money Venture Posted June 6, 2014 #5 Posted June 6, 2014 Hard to see, but if you take off the master cover and the rubber cover inside the cover, the hole is in the bottom of the master. It is so small, a single strand of copper wire is all that will fit through it.
Money Venture Posted June 6, 2014 #6 Posted June 6, 2014 [ATTACH]84936[/ATTACH] Slightly different Master but you get the idea.
djh3 Posted June 6, 2014 #7 Posted June 6, 2014 WARNING WARNING Make sure to cover up the gas tank and the lowers anything that might get brake fluid on it. Also dont cycle the clutch lever thru with the cover off. As you release it it will sort of spray fluid up in the air with the greatest of ease and where it goes you can only guess. I have an old syringe I use to remove the old fluid. Then I use a paper shop towel to soak up the rest of the old fluid. I spray a bit of brake clean in the reservoir and you'll see 2 little holes in the bottom. then dab out the brake clean. Fill reservoir with fluid and open the bleeder without pulling clutch handle. Watch the level it will flow on its own for the most part. Close the bleeder, and refill resevoir. Install cap and bleed thru with pressure a few times. Refill and you should see nothing but clear fluid. I find that if I use my "leveling" board that I use for checking oil level under the kickstand and then rotate the handlebars to the right it levels out the reservoir.
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #8 Posted June 7, 2014 Thank ya'll. I found the small hole and I stuck a piece of copper wire in it. It went about 1/2' down the small hole. The fluid that was in there was dark and there was a layer of slug on the bottom of the reservoir. I got it all out and wiped it down. Can someone tell me where the drain plug is? I still have not found my shop manual. Thanks
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #9 Posted June 7, 2014 Alright I have found something. I don't know what I have found but someone here probably knows. Brake fluid is dripping from under the motorcycle. It is coming from some where in the center of the engine. There is a short (maybe 10" long") clutch cable on the bottom of the engine. One end goes to the lever. That end appears to be alright. The other end goes up into the engine. The fluid appears to be running down this piece and dripping on the floor. Does not sound good to me whatever it is.
djh3 Posted June 7, 2014 #10 Posted June 7, 2014 Sounds like slave maybe leaking. Unless maybe you were bleeding it didnt get it closed or its residual from bleeding.
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #11 Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) Sounds like slave maybe leaking. Unless maybe you were bleeding it didnt get it closed or its residual from bleeding. No I wasn't bleeding it. What is the slave and is it easy to get to? I can't find anything called a slave in the online parts catalog. I did find a post that said to buy a new one as thing to rebuild on is not always successful. I also found a post in the 2nd Gen read only section that tell how to bleed the clutch but the only things I can find mentioning a slave don't tell me what or where it is. I kinda have an idea where it is but am not sure ho to get to it and I don't know what the technical name is so I can look up a part number and order it. Edited June 7, 2014 by YamaDuck
M61A1MECH Posted June 7, 2014 #12 Posted June 7, 2014 The slave cylinder is # 27 in this break down. http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045f8cf8700209bc794e73/clutch
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #13 Posted June 7, 2014 The slave cylinder is # 27 in this break down. http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045f8cf8700209bc794e73/clutch Thank you. I found a post on another forum that tells how to change the slave (push lever comp as Yamaha calls it). I found the post on how to bleed the clutch and with the help of people here giving me a lot of good advise I think I am ready to order the parts and tackle the job. Thank you everyone for helping me track down the problem. Harry
djh3 Posted June 7, 2014 #14 Posted June 7, 2014 While your in the part ordering mood, you might want to look at a speed bleeder for that. Part #SB8125 I just go some off e-bay. They run about $7 a piece, but supposedly make it way easier to bleed.
MidlifeVenture Posted June 7, 2014 #15 Posted June 7, 2014 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1828 Check manual here
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #17 Posted June 7, 2014 While your in the part ordering mood, you might want to look at a speed bleeder for that. Part #SB8125 I just go some off e-bay. They run about $7 a piece, but supposedly make it way easier to bleed. Yes I would like to get a speed bleeder. I found a post with a link but now I can not find it. I will check ebay. Thanks!
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #18 Posted June 7, 2014 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1828 Check manual here Thanks I will down load it to my computer. Now I remember there is on posted on the site. Thanks!
djh3 Posted June 7, 2014 #19 Posted June 7, 2014 This is the store on e-bay I got mine from. $33 for 2 fronts, 1 rear and a clutch bleeder shipped. SB7100S Front 2ea needed SB8125L Rear 1 ea needed SB8125 Clutch 1ea needed
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #20 Posted June 7, 2014 This is the store on e-bay I got mine from. $33 for 2 fronts, 1 rear and a clutch bleeder shipped. SB7100S Front 2ea needed SB8125L Rear 1 ea needed SB8125 Clutch 1ea needed Thanks I'm headed to ebay right now!
Cougar Posted June 7, 2014 #21 Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) SB7100S - Front brakes SB8125L - Rear brake SB8125 - Clutch YUP OH GRAB the bleeder bag while your at it. nice to have. there very nice folks at speed bleeders will send them to you speedbleeders.com Enjoy them! Jeff Edited June 7, 2014 by Cougar
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #22 Posted June 7, 2014 SB7100S - Front brakes SB8125L - Rear brake SB8125 - Clutch YUP OH GRAB the bleeder bag while your at it. nice to have. there very nice folks at speed bleeders will send them to you speedbleeders.com Enjoy them! Jeff Alright I'll look for the bleeder bag. Thanks!
rougeray Posted June 7, 2014 #23 Posted June 7, 2014 Attention!!!If you replace the original bleeders with SPEED BLEEDERS save the originals! I suggest you put them in the packages the speed bleeders came in and mark the package as to where the bleeders go. They will be needed if you ever have to bleed the system using a vacuum pump. If a system gets air into it for what ever reason a vacuum pump will be needed to remove the air. You can bleed the system with a vacuum pump in a matter of minutes where as if you don't have one it could take hours if not days. Harbor Freight sold a plastic model and a more expensive metal model which is what I have. I think the plastic model would be more than adequate.
YamaDuck Posted June 7, 2014 Author #24 Posted June 7, 2014 Attention!!!If you replace the original bleeders with SPEED BLEEDERS save the originals! I suggest you put them in the packages the speed bleeders came in and mark the package as to where the bleeders go. They will be needed if you ever have to bleed the system using a vacuum pump. If a system gets air into it for what ever reason a vacuum pump will be needed to remove the air. You can bleed the system with a vacuum pump in a matter of minutes where as if you don't have one it could take hours if not days. Harbor Freight sold a plastic model and a more expensive metal model which is what I have. I think the plastic model would be more than adequate. Thank you I will save them. I never through anything away. That is part of my problem.
djh3 Posted June 8, 2014 #25 Posted June 8, 2014 I didnt order a bleeder bag. I have been using a qt oil bottle I have drilled a hole in cap and have a piece of hose that fits secure on the bleeder. Goes in bottle then into waste oil jug. Probably serves same purpose, but I already had the bottle.
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