Neil86 Posted July 4, 2014 #26 Posted July 4, 2014 The original 4 brush starters are Mitsuba SM-13...you're fine.
Evan Posted July 5, 2014 #27 Posted July 5, 2014 Recently replaced my 88VR starter with one from a 2nd gen. Amazing performance. Did it when I had my headers off for some exhaust work and it was a simple bolt on job as the casing and bolt pattern is identical to the original starter.
Venture n Dixie Posted July 5, 2014 #28 Posted July 5, 2014 The original 4 brush starters are Mitsuba SM-13...you're fine. Interesting! When I search Mitsuba SM-13 I get Honda Polaris and bunch of other results from $19 up. A few don't even list what they go on. Will these starters work without modification or would the guts need to be transferred to the old hardware?
Neil86 Posted July 5, 2014 #29 Posted July 5, 2014 No....you can't just buy any Mitsuba SM-13 starter....some rotate opposite direction. different tooth count etc. Find one that came off a Venture/Royal Star 1300.
dna9656 Posted July 5, 2014 #30 Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) I had a bad experience with the whole 2 brush starter mod. My starter worked fine, (2 brush) I never had the hot start problem but I do not like surprises like hard/no start situations in my driveway much less away from home so I pulled the starter, I may have had the t-stat piping out of the way I don't remember now but I did not remove any exhaust pipes. I had the post that shows how to do the ground mod on my computer out in my shop. I have my mother-in law's 42" Flat screen TV she left when she moved to Texas as my monitor so seeing things is CLEARLY (pun intended) not a problem. I did the 2 wire thing with the butt connectors just like the pics show. Re-assembled. Now the VOM readings show a bad starter. I connected it to a spare battery I have, no spin. I had the 4 brush starter I bought through E-bay already installed so the starter's no longer being any good really didn't impact my riding. I'm not trying to stir the pot, Lord knows my best friends are right here on this forum, I trust the lot of you more than those pirates at the dealer, so this post is just a word of caution; I don't know WHAT I did but I did it and the starter is F(ouled)UBAR so far as I know. About the same time I had a few other electrical problems I probably brought on myself. I didn't know that turning the Ign. key fully left turned on the parking lights on the '83 Venture. I never heard of PARKING lights on a motorcycle. I guess I should have read the owner's manual the PO gave me. The battery was dead, 26 miles from home, let's say it's very hard to get a vehicle rescues truck where I work, esp. at midnight. Needless to say I caught a taxi home ($$$) and came back with my trusty trailer the next day. I also thought I had enough gas to get to the station one night not long ago; here's the wisdom I got from that fiasco: when the gauge is low (little red light or not) go get some gas. Edited July 6, 2014 by dna9656
greg_in_london Posted July 7, 2014 #31 Posted July 7, 2014 I challenge you to push start this beast when the starter is hot. I used to have to do that all the time when I first had the bike - I'd have everything going fine and it would cut out or I'd have to kill the engine to fill up with petrol. Then I'd have no choice but to push start it. Mind you, that was fifteen years ago and I was at least ten years younger then. Putting a sidecar on didn't make that much easier, but I could carry a car battery. Upgrading the starter and using an AGM battery is much better though (especially after we started pulling a trailer tent too...)
jimmyenglish Posted July 8, 2014 #32 Posted July 8, 2014 I bought a vmax starter on eBay 6 years and 45k ago. $125 and still works great. Buy one of those. The screwing with the repairs and mods just prolongs the inevitable, push starting.
dna9656 Posted July 8, 2014 #33 Posted July 8, 2014 IMHE many re-sellers on E Bay say they have (insert name of part here) that fits or came off a 1st or 2nd Gen Venture. I don't know how many of these re-sellers I have written a FYI that the part they are selling ISN'T from what ever year they are specifying but from another. Starters for example; as we all know there is a part number (MFR's not Yamaha's) on each one. there are 4 screws on one and spot welds on the other. Side panels; they all look the same but I understand that panels from 1st gens don't fit 2nd Gens. I have a 83.5 XVZ12DKC2 and I have a XVZ12DC (parts queen) and the larger travel truck mounting rack and trunk and the side bags fit the 83.5 just fine. Here is the 85 in better days: http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/01717_fMqDWa4j1Dp_600x450.jpg The 83.5 today (more or less) with the travel truck and saddle bags from the 85. Please note the LED radiator marker lights, the trailer hitch and lights (they are LEDS too) the front fairing bling is illuminated with an LED too. I just installed RED LED markers on the aft side of the saddlebags too but they are not in place yet in this picture. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk195/dna9656/IMG_0278.jpg
Venturous Randy Posted July 9, 2014 #34 Posted July 9, 2014 I like the extra lighting dna and have been trying to find something that will fit the trim near the radiator. Another one I added that really helps from the side is LED lights mounted on the side bags where the reflectors went. They cost about $7 each at Walmart and I just drilled holes for the wires to go through and ran the wires down the inside of the bags and put tape over them. I then put some quick connects near the top to unplug them when I remove the bags. Where did you get the lights you put on the radiator side covers? RandyA
Venture n Dixie Posted July 9, 2014 #35 Posted July 9, 2014 I bought a vmax starter on eBay 6 years and 45k ago. $125 and still works great. Buy one of those. The screwing with the repairs and mods just prolongs the inevitable, push starting. So a vmax starter is the same?
dna9656 Posted July 9, 2014 #36 Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) I like the extra lighting dna and have been trying to find something that will fit the trim near the radiator. Another one I added that really helps from the side is LED lights mounted on the side bags where the reflectors went. They cost about $7 each at Walmart and I just drilled holes for the wires to go through and ran the wires down the inside of the bags and put tape over them. I then put some quick connects near the top to unplug them when I remove the bags. Where did you get the lights you put on the radiator side covers? RandyA Well I finally get to help one of the guys that helps so many others! Go to Ebay type in "Red LED Motocycle ATV Reflector Brake Tail Rear Fog Light " http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjIwWDYyMA==/z/VVIAAOxy4~BSO7HB/$T2eC16J,!yQFIjWItk3OBSO7H!j7G!~~60_14.JPG Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Details about Red LED Motocycle ATV Reflector Brake Tail Rear Fog Light Change the color to "amber" or "orange" for yellow lights. You'll have to file off just a touch on the edges so they will fit just right. I used my bench grinder to accomplish this. I got a few defective lights but the vendor has replaced all. So when you install this thing know that the Black wire is Gnd., the red wire is full brightness and the blue is half, so you can wire it using the blue wire for a running light and the red as a brake light or turn signal. Also I would put some RTV on the back where the wires come out to keep water out. The light won't fit the chrome shell on the saddle bags but with a little filing it will fit very nicely with out the chrome bezel. Oh yeah, if you use them on the saddle bags be sure to RTV the back to keep water out of the saddle bag. Edited July 9, 2014 by dna9656
katoomer Posted July 16, 2014 #37 Posted July 16, 2014 Removeing, and rebuilding the starter is not actually that complicated. Most of the work is takeing off the fairings, and exhaust pipe. This seems hard for me to understand. Ok, I eyeballed the work a few minutes ago. I have an "89". The fairing doesn't seem to be in the way because there is a center section in front of the engine that unbolts with just 2 screws. The top bolt for the starter is mostly blocked by a large engine mount bolt and the large radiator hose. It looks like I might have to remove both radiator hoses near the bottom of the radiator. One exhaust pipe is in the way. But the other exhaust pipe is in front of a thermostat housing. If I have to remove the thermostat housing, then it really gets complicated. That is connected to the water pump by a solid connector. Can anybody else give me a slightly more detailed instructions on what they removed to do the job. I hope I can remove and replace the hoses without damage to them. I don't have much time left before the big ride to Guntersville. I have the replacement starter on hand. How about BlueSky ? Did you install yours yet ? Any words of wisdom?
katoomer Posted July 16, 2014 #38 Posted July 16, 2014 My apologies. I did use the search but did not find the information for a long time. But I happened to use the home button and found the tech section and then found the starter replacement pdf. This is pretty much exactly what I wanted. I'm starting this job a little late and I may need parts and O rings it looks like, and I don't have a parts bike handy like he did.
dvuch1 Posted July 16, 2014 #39 Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) I replaced my starter 86 VR with a 2007 royal Star 4 brush from Pinwall Cycle 59.95.Free shipping also a couple weeks ago. At first you must tell them that any 2nd gen will work. They do not list everything on ebay and you must inform them sometimes year by year what will work...I asked the lady if they has a 1999,2000, 2001 etc.etc.. You must take the radiator off. The right exhaust (I had an exhaust gasket-didn't use it though) The thermostat housing and coolant by pass valve. The hardest part is replace the raidator with all its closely cut lines with no play in them My starter popped out but I've also heard that they can be stuck. I replaced alot of o rings and the thermostat because I was there. I stripped one allen on thermostat housing and used an extra starter housing bolt to replace. It's not exactly slam dunk but with time and patience it worked well. I did have a "slip" in the starter on occasion but that has passed after a couple scares. Leave lower fairings off to check things out for several days. The new o rings leaked a tiny bit but have since sealed without a weep. It's arduous but worth the pain of NOT PUSHING THE HOT TIRED BEAST. Edited July 17, 2014 by dvuch1
frankd Posted July 16, 2014 #40 Posted July 16, 2014 You DO NOT need to remove the radiator, just unbolt it and the hoses allow it to move enough to pull the starter. Frank D.
dvuch1 Posted July 17, 2014 #41 Posted July 17, 2014 Thats probably true but a cramped work space but I should have tried that because it's a bit of a bear getting the radiator back in..Frank ...did you take the t housing off? I don't think you can leave that on. Dave
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