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Posted

Hello. My first post here. I have an 2008 RSV that I am the second owner, purchased Sept 2013 with just 2,600mi. I am currently at 5,500.

 

I have been upgrading the lighting and stumbled across drop in replacement fork reflectors for our bikes that are LED lit. They bolt right on and just need to make a small hole in the mounts for the wires to fit thru. They are dual intensity so you could have them run/flash if you like. I wired them for full bright at all times. When the bike is off they look like stock reflectors and reflect as such.

 

I have attached a picture. Its hard to guage the intensity but both my passing and highbeam are on in the picture. That is not a refection from a flash, it is the LEDs illuminating the light.

 

I bought them here from this seller. $17 shipped for 2.

 

[ame=http://www.ebay.com/itm/261481551059?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT]Amber LED Rectangle Reflector Tail Brake Indicate Rear Fog Light for Car Auto | eBay[/ame]

 

Jay

Posted

That figures. I spent a month trying to figure out how I was going to do it a couple years ago. Now somebody makes it easy. Sheez I wired them in as running and turn signals.

Side-light-on-close-web.jpg

Posted (edited)

They also have red ones ...http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Red-LED-Rectangle-Reflector-Tail-Brake-Indicate-Rear-Fog-Light-Car-Truck-/310971901814?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48675ea776

 

The red ones are only $14

Edited by XV1100SE
Posted

Billy, I think I connected to the wiring from the turn signal. In order to make it a run/turn signal you need to have resistors and a diode gizmo soldered up. I think I know someone that might make them for you if you wanted to try to do that.

Posted
Billy, I think I connected to the wiring from the turn signal. In order to make it a run/turn signal you need to have resistors and a diode gizmo soldered up. I think I know someone that might make them for you if you wanted to try to do that.

 

If you just tie into the signal/run lighting then you shouldn't need the resistor/load balancer...at least I don't think you would.

Posted

There is "weird science" that goes on there. First the LED only knows to be "on" so you have to limit the amount of voltage going to it. Then you have to put a diode in to keep it from feeding power from one side to the other and making all the lights flash say if you signal for a left turn. I forget all the particulars rite now but I do remember researching it and having to solder up the circuits.

Posted

Reading the description, the electronics is already built in.

"Rectangle Reflector Tail Stop Trunk Light. (Black is Ground, Red is Brake, Blue is Running)"

Posted

I always thought as long as original bulbs are still there for run/turn then any led would not need a resistor.when I used similar ones in place of reflectors I wired the led on rear directly to running light and fronts to turn light.fronts are lit all the time but when signals flash they go off ,giving an alternating flash pattern..so far no feed back to dash indicator or fast flash rate

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

O.K. guys (and girls!!),

I got both front (Amber) and rear (Red) lights in the mail yesterday. I think I know where to connect in the rear (Behind license plate), but, not really sure where to run the wires in front to get run-turn. Any help appreciated!!!!!...............Bill

Posted

Up to the turn signals. If you have a light bar installed I can tell you its going to be tight. I ran my wires from the front forks up along the brake lines. I used small black wire so as to be concealed and small black zip ties and then just ran up the forks.

Posted (edited)

If you are going to go in behind the license plate you need these. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=5049&title=plug-and-play-electrical-jumpers&cat=35

http://s40.photobucket.com/user/royalsteve/library/One%20to%20Two%20bullet%20jumpers

 

I split my fairing this afternoon to see what was in there for connection to the turn signals. They have bullet connectors, so you could use my new one into two bullet jumpers for inside the fairing also. Here are some photos of the stock set up and then with the jumpers installed.

You may want to consider taking the rear reflector/lights to under the seat instead of all the back to the license plate, much closer, you could use one of my "T"-harnesses for that, same price as the 5 pack of bullet jumpers.

Shoot me an email if you are interested and we will work out what you need, I would probably make you two custom jumpers for the grounds so you do not have to double up any wires.

Edited by M61A1MECH
Added photos and additional comments
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I purchased the red/amber LED marker lights. The fork (amber) lights shouldn't be an issue hooking in (into fairing). I want to do the saddlebag rail (red) lights but not sure how to get the wire to the marker.

 

The marker has a bolt/nut combination but it isn't long enough to go thru the rail. Would require a second hole in the rail for the wiring.

 

Question is... how do you get the wiring from under the seat to the rail markers? There is a hole where the saddlebag guard comes out but getting it into the horizontal rail there is no opening (other than for the bolt that fastens the two). Do I drill a hole beside the bolt hole?

Posted

Send a PM to bill4you502 he just installed a set that I wired up for him. I set it all up for him so it was all plug and play, but he found that some one at his dealer had cut the plugs off off the harness under the seat, but he got it all working.

Posted
I purchased the red/amber LED marker lights. The fork (amber) lights shouldn't be an issue hooking in (into fairing). I want to do the saddlebag rail (red) lights but not sure how to get the wire to the marker.

 

The marker has a bolt/nut combination but it isn't long enough to go thru the rail. Would require a second hole in the rail for the wiring.

 

Question is... how do you get the wiring from under the seat to the rail markers? There is a hole where the saddlebag guard comes out but getting it into the horizontal rail there is no opening (other than for the bolt that fastens the two). Do I drill a hole beside the bolt hole?

 

used a long single thin copper wire and a needle threader at the hole wear the reflector mounts to pull it out

Posted

I don't have a problem with getting the wires into the saddle bag guard... just wondering how people got wires thru where the rails connect to the guard. Area circled in picture.

 

Where the rail meets the guard there is a bolt that goes thru the guard and a solid piece in the rail with a threaded hole for the bolt. Did people that did this drill a hole thru the solid piece in the end of the rail?

Posted

Don: In the one photo of the red one installed they didn't have the bag guard rails so the reflector was installed in the original location on the passenger crash bar.. I'm also interested in this so if a solution to get the wires into the bag rails is worked out it would look great...

Posted

Have you guys considered running your wires inside the chrome piece that follows the arc of the fender to the rear of the bag guards? It looks like you could drill a hole in the guard back there in order to get the wires inside. Just a thought

Posted

Just got mine installed and they work great!! Will post pics when I return from KY Bike Week at "Little Sturgis, KY" Had M61A1MECH wire them for me and was truly "Plug 'n play" Contact him w/ particulars for your ride. Rear reflectors come apart and pry out of holder so you don't hafta' drill into guard to run the wires either to under seat harness or rear wire bundle at tail light!!.....:cool10::cool10::cool10:

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey, Guys. I'm back. I've been getting some miles in, almost at 8,000 now.

 

The way I installed mine was I connected the high intensity lead (cant remember the color) to the positive side of the lead going to the Passing Lights VIA a device called a Posi-Tap. From there I wrapped the wires in electrical tape and then coiled them down the brake lines. Lights are still working great. I do not have them set up to flash, just 100% bright all the time.

 

Jay

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