IronMike Posted May 15, 2014 #1 Posted May 15, 2014 (edited) This is my version. I have a cabin deep in the woods 2 miles from electric, down a fire trail through a Cow pasture. Yes I go there by bike and yes I bottom out all the way down. Not good. Until now I could only take the Roadstar down in. On a good day, I can now take the RSV http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0121_zpsed359a84.jpg It was the first thing I noticed AFTER I bought this bike. The idiotic way they did the undercarriage. I swear they consulted with Larry and had him fab up a Jack Adapter so they could leave the drawing board early. Look at that thing hang down! What were they thinking? If you don't have a Carbon one Skid, you're running around NAKED! RSV STREAKING! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0119_zpsf2f968ed.jpg Well Larry got to thinking and its certainly at the right price. Looks so good you don't even want to install it. Notice there is a hole for oil drainage, but this must be removed to use the Jack Adapter. Personally I always jack mine up to change oil. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0120_zps46f22761.jpg You can do this no jack, in fact you have to. and just a few tools you already have. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0122_zpsc43443db.jpg At the rear of the plate is one bolt stud facing left, its a finagle but put the plate up and slide it in the hole, it only fits one way, and put the lock washer and nut supplied on but leave it loose. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0128_zps855bb49d.jpg When you are done it will look like this from the kick stand side, you can see you have a clear and easy shot at the nut with a ratchet and an extension. easy Peasy nice and squeezy! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0130_zpsf6173f34.jpg Once you have that rear nut on, you can rotate the skid up and see where it bolts up front and what you will have to remove, shown here is what is removed from each side. (Keep them) and the supplied bolt installed. IMPORTANT! When installing the FRONT bolts install ONE side loosely and then the other making sure each has good threads in the holes then tighten up. If you tighten one the other side will be almost if not totally impossible to thread. When done tightening them, go back to the rear and snug that one down. I suggest using a little Blue threadlocker for this install. And check the bolts on your pre trip. As a reminder... From this..... http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0121_zpsed359a84.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0135_zpsecf5f7ec.jpg TO THIS! Whoooooooooooooo! Come on Road debris! TRY IT NOW! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0132_zpsd0946d55.jpg I did run into a problem, Carbone One is going to Update this in future Skids. But on Early Models. the spring from the kick stand scrapes the skid, I am going to have to pound that out. Or Cut it as Larry suggested. Sad Face I am afraid I am going to hurt my powdercoat. Another sad face was when I went to jack up the bike. You have already guessed it, I have to uninstall the skid to Use the Carbon one Jack adapter. DRATS! I have a J&S Jack, wondering it the wider stance of a PIT BULL might avoid that step. Although this does come off in seconds! And will go on in a few minutes! I highly suggest having one! I always worried about this vulnerable area of this bike. No more. I wish it had some sort of a quicker release way of mounting. perhaps two stud bolts up front, that you slide the tabs over and just put nuts on, and maybe a Bicycle seat style Cam type bolt that went through BOTH holes in the back and tightened with the cam. Maybe next winter I will hop on that. Rare hardware I know but It can be done. (UPDATE!) Larry thought of another cheaper way see replies below) To Order one go to the Classifieds and Member Vendors and Carbon one, then Skid Plate and then Pay and in a few days it magically arrives. He must carry one in his pocket because he shipped mine while he was out of town! I ALWAYS order when he is out of town! Edited May 15, 2014 by IronMike Add some Updates and CHROME Crashed 1/2 through!
Carbon_One Posted May 15, 2014 #2 Posted May 15, 2014 This is my version. I have a cabin deep in the woods 2 miles from electric, down a fire trail through a Cow pasture. Yes I go there by bike and yes I bottom out all the way down. Not good. Until now I could only take the Roadstar down in. On a good day, I can now take the RSV http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0121_zpsed359a84.jpg It was the first thing I noticed AFTER I bought this bike. The idiotic way they did the undercarriage. I swear they consulted with Larry and had him fab up a Jack Adapter so they could leave the drawing board early. Look at that thing hang down! What were they thinking? If you don't have a Carbon one Skid, you're running around NAKED! RSV STREAKING! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0119_zpsf2f968ed.jpg Well Larry got to thinking and its certainly at the right price. Looks so good you don't even want to install it. Notice there is a hole for oil drainage, but this must be removed to use the Jack Adapter. Personally I always jack mine up to change oil. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0120_zps46f22761.jpg You can do this no jack, in fact you have to. and just a few tools you already have. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0122_zpsc43443db.jpg At the rear of the plate is one bolt stud facing left, its a finagle but put the plate up and slide it in the hole, it only fits one way, and put the lock washer and nut supplied on but leave it loose. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0128_zps855bb49d.jpg When you are done it will look like this from the kick stand side, you can see you have a clear and easy shot at the nut with a ratchet and an extension. easy Peasy nice and squeezy! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0130_zpsf6173f34.jpg Once you have that rear nut on, you can rotate the skid up and see where it bolts up front and what you will have to remove, shown here is what is removed from each side. (Keep them) and the supplied bolt installed. IMPORTANT! When installing the FRONT bolts install ONE side loosely and then the other making sure each has good threads in the holes then tighten up. If you tighten one the other side will be almost if not totally impossible to thread. When done tightening them, go back to the rear and snug that one down. I suggest using a little Blue threadlocker for this install. And check the bolts on your pre trip. As a reminder... From this..... http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0121_zpsed359a84.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0135_zpsecf5f7ec.jpg TO THIS! Whoooooooooooooo! Come on Road debris! TRY IT NOW! http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d139/usmcxterra/IMG_0132_zpsd0946d55.jpg I did run into a problem, the spring from the kick stand scrapes the skid, I am going to have to pound that out. Sad Face i am afraid I am going to hurt my powdercoat. Another sad face was when I went to jack up the bike. You have already guessed it, I have to uninstall the skid to Use the Carbon one Jack adapter. DRATS! I have a J&S Jack, wondering it the wider stance of a PIT BULL might avoid that step. Although this does come off in seconds! And will go on in a few minutes! I highly suggest having one! I always worried about this vulnerable area of this bike. No more. I wish it had some sort of a quicker release way of mounting. perhaps two stud bolts up front, that you slide the tabs over and just put nuts on, and maybe a Bicycle seat style Cam type bolt that went through BOTH holes in the back and tightened with the cam. Maybe next winter I will hop on that. Rare hardware I know but It can be done. To Order one go to the Classifieds and Member Vendors and Carbon one, then Skid Plate and then Pay and in a few days it magically arrives. He must carry one in his pocket because he shipped mine while he was out of town! I ALWAYS order when he is out of town! Nice write up Mike. Buddy told me the kick stand spring hit so I was going to check out just where & how much o alter that area. As to a quick release system you can cut the top portion off the mounting tabs forming a "U" shape. Then you won't need to take the bolts out all the way, jut loosen them. I think I'll do that on future productions. And cut a relief for the side stand spring too. Good ideas Mike. Larry
IronMike Posted May 15, 2014 Author #3 Posted May 15, 2014 (edited) I knew you would see this and come up with some better ideas. I think I will be doing both of what you suggest! I know its hard to fab up things and its a process making some mods according to feedback. Thats how it gets perfect. If you are going to U shape the bolt holes make some kind of retainer. I think I will put one of those HF 55 LB magnets up there with a zip tie and have it on the front of the plate JUST in case it might come loose I will hear a noise before it drops and makes me end over. OR maybe cut the BACK portion of the hole so it hooks on from the FRONT and slides BACK then Finagles into the rear hole. That would keep it up there as long as the rear nut is on. I feel a lot better having this baby on and will especially on a trip! Now I can ride it like I stole it! LOL Edited May 15, 2014 by IronMike
Carbon_One Posted May 15, 2014 #4 Posted May 15, 2014 On second thought I'm going to agree that cutting slots forward will be best. Take out rear bolt and slide back to remove. Can't fall out in front that way if those bolts should loosen. Nothing like getting real experience feedback. Thanks, Larry
IronMike Posted May 16, 2014 Author #5 Posted May 16, 2014 On the part where the spring contacts the plate. I think I am going to just cut two half in slits and bend it over ...... Keeping the meat of the metal there and adding stiffness.
Cougar Posted May 16, 2014 #6 Posted May 16, 2014 Ummmm forgot about always having to remove it to use the adaptor, Drats
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