Trailer Wiring Connector Question

[bostonlawman2003]

Hey all, I bought a little homemade trailer over the winter and finally got to test it out last week. The lights on the trailer wouldn't stay on consistantly. If I wiggled the connection the lights would come back on.

 

The connector on the trailer end is very similar to the one pictured below.

 

My question is if I remove the wires currently in the connector, make new connections inside the plug, and then put a couple drops of solder on each connection is it going to work and be more reliable than just sticking the wires into the blades again?

 

I'm not exactly an electrician, but I can usually get most things done with a little direction. Thanks for your help guys

 

http://www.cequentconsumerproducts.com/Products/images/Professional-Series-Insta-plug-Connectors.gif

[Cougar]

YES, Solder those into those clips, those clips don't work very well.

watch your heat as not to melt the conector.

remove the plastic coating that goes into the V clips

for a better solder joint.

Good Luck !

 

Also check all your grounds on the trailer as well.

lots of times that is the problem.

 

Jeff

[bostonlawman2003]

Thanks Jeff! That's exactly what I thought, but I don't like trying things without asking!

[GaryZ]

This one of those times where I need to disagree . . .

 

I worked ten years on large airplanes and the standard is;

DO NOT SOLDER WIRES THAT CARRY CURRENT

 

The problem is that solder has no flexibility on a vehicle that vibrates continuously.

In addition, high current can melt solder.

 

It seems that a whole bunch of automotive and motorcycle gurus want to solder where there is lots of vibration and heat.

 

Just sayin' . . .

[bongobobny]

If you're drawing THAT much current to melt solder (around 800 degrees) the insulation and rubber connector will melt first!

 

Funny, I was an electronic tech for 35 years, and then an electrohydraulic mechanic working on flight control hardware for another 16 years and I NEVER heard that!! Better recall every piece of flight hardware Moog, Inc ever made as we solder just about every connector, lots more reliable than crimps...

[djh3]

When you go to solder try finding a alligator clip or something to put on the barrel thing there. It will help "soak" up some of the heat and may help keep from melting the plug. If all else fails, install a new plug.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

DO NOT SOLDER WIRES THAT CARRY CURRENT

 

 

ALL wiring carries current....well except for the odd van de graff generator...

 

Unless maybe you use wires to carry water flow or light rays!

 

Seriously....for trailer wiring thats gonna carry a few amps of current, soldering is fine.

 

Be sure top use a knife or file to scrape those connector blades and get them shiny or the solder wont stick.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GaryZ]

If you're drawing THAT much current to melt solder (around 800 degrees) the insulation and rubber connector will melt first!

 

Funny, I was an electronic tech for 35 years, and then an electrohydraulic mechanic working on flight control hardware for another 16 years and I NEVER heard that!! Better recall every piece of flight hardware Moog, Inc ever made as we solder just about every connector, lots more reliable than crimps...

 

It's not funny. My aircraft experience was 10 years in the Air Force working on airborne avionics. Things do change, so I did a brief search and found that standards for aircraft wiring is still properly installed mechanical crimp connections for reliability. I am simply sharing this information. I do not wish to step on any toes, or burst any bubbles.

[GaryZ]

ALL wiring carries current....well except for the odd van de graff generator...

 

Unless maybe you use wires to carry water flow or light rays!

 

Seriously....for trailer wiring thats gonna carry a few amps of current, soldering is fine.

 

Be sure top use a knife or file to scrape those connector blades and get them shiny or the solder wont stick.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course all wiring carries current. The issue is higher current applications and reliability. A trailer connector usually has a 10A supply fuse. A poor connection results in a resistance that generates heat at the connection, not the wire.

[Sylvester]

Hey all, I bought a little homemade trailer over the winter and finally got to test it out last week. The lights on the trailer wouldn't stay on consistantly. If I wiggled the connection the lights would come back on.

 

The connector on the trailer end is very similar to the one pictured below.

 

My question is if I remove the wires currently in the connector, make new connections inside the plug, and then put a couple drops of solder on each connection is it going to work and be more reliable than just sticking the wires into the blades again?

 

I'm not exactly an electrician, but I can usually get most things done with a little direction. Thanks for your help guys

 

http://www.cequentconsumerproducts.com/Products/images/Professional-Series-Insta-plug-Connectors.gif

 

The RSV uses a five wire system instead of the common four wire system. You will need to install a converter to your bike or as I have done is convert the trailer to a five wire system.