mralex714 Posted May 6, 2014 #1 Posted May 6, 2014 I went to blow the horn at someone drifting into my lane and nothing. The switch is loose so I have come to the conclusion the switch is bad. While trying the switch the fuel pump clicks when the button is released. Do I have another issue besides the bad horn switch. BTW the horns are after market and on a relay and I tried a new relay.
cimmer Posted May 7, 2014 #2 Posted May 7, 2014 The horn button completes the circuit to ground according to the schematic. You could take a wire and attach one end to a good ground point and the other end to where the horn button connects to the relay and see if the horns work or if the relay clicks. If so then you can test the horn button with an ohm meter and see if there is an issue with it or the wires. I am not sure about the fuel pump but that could be its relay you hear or the horn one.. Hope that helps you. Rick F.
mralex714 Posted May 7, 2014 Author #3 Posted May 7, 2014 The horn button completes the circuit to ground according to the schematic. You could take a wire and attach one end to a good ground point and the other end to where the horn button connects to the relay and see if the horns work or if the relay clicks. If so then you can test the horn button with an ohm meter and see if there is an issue with it or the wires. I am not sure about the fuel pump but that could be its relay you hear or the horn one.. Hope that helps you. Rick F. I connected the horn to the battery and they work. There is no click at the relay, I even got a new one with the same results. The fuel pump is what is clicking. I put my hand on it and can feel it.
ragtop69gs Posted May 7, 2014 #4 Posted May 7, 2014 HORN NOT WORKING!! WATCH FOR FINGER Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
djh3 Posted May 7, 2014 #5 Posted May 7, 2014 YEA What he said. ^^^^^^^^ On a serious note though. I just went through similar trials on my 2nd gen. To me it works completely backwards of what I was taught and took me awhile to figure it out. I cleaned all the ground and mount points for them going to the horn and relay. I had a bad relay on one horn and bad crimp on connector on the other. Why both went south at the same time??? Beats me.
Neil86 Posted May 8, 2014 #6 Posted May 8, 2014 When you first turn the key on its normal for the fuel pump to cycle a few times then stop....without starting engine....when you then try the horn, the pump cycles everytime? If that is the case, you should retrace where your horn relay is getting power, both on the horn button side and the horn side. It might be tapped into the power to the fuel pump either wired that way a pinched harness shorting 2 wires together.
mralex714 Posted May 8, 2014 Author #7 Posted May 8, 2014 When you first turn the key on its normal for the fuel pump to cycle a few times then stop....without starting engine....when you then try the horn, the pump cycles everytime? If that is the case, you should retrace where your horn relay is getting power, both on the horn button side and the horn side. It might be tapped into the power to the fuel pump either wired that way a pinched harness shorting 2 wires together. Yes the pump cycles every time. The horn relay is powered directly from the battery. I did change the switch and the same results. So I guess I'll start looking for a short.
mralex714 Posted May 9, 2014 Author #8 Posted May 9, 2014 With the parts I have, the stock switch, relay and after market horns. What is the easiest way to wire up the horns with these parts. Unless its something obvious I'm terrible at trouble shooting electrical problems. Thamks
djh3 Posted May 9, 2014 #9 Posted May 9, 2014 Crestview hmmmm I'm trying to get my bearings on where your at. Oh my your way north of me. See if this diagram for a relay hook up helps you out. It sounds like you need to find a "continuous" power ie: battery source for terminal 30 on the relay.
mralex714 Posted May 9, 2014 Author #11 Posted May 9, 2014 Is the fuel pump stock or an aftermarket unit? The pump is stock. The clicking has stopped after I changed the horn switch, but the horn still doesn't work.
Flyinfool Posted May 9, 2014 #12 Posted May 9, 2014 OK, you have to pick a spot to start. At the horn switch there should be a black wire and a pink wire. Using an ohm meter set to the lowest scale, check from the black wire at the switch to the battery negative it should show a dead short, as in very near to 0 ohms. This should not matter if the key is on or off. With the key on and the switch not pressed, there should be 12V on the pink wire. When you press the switch the voltage should drop to zero. Let us know what this is and then we will know what direction to head from there.
mralex714 Posted May 10, 2014 Author #13 Posted May 10, 2014 OK, you have to pick a spot to start. At the horn switch there should be a black wire and a pink wire. Using an ohm meter set to the lowest scale, check from the black wire at the switch to the battery negative it should show a dead short, as in very near to 0 ohms. This should not matter if the key is on or off. With the key on and the switch not pressed, there should be 12V on the pink wire. When you press the switch the voltage should drop to zero. Let us know what this is and then we will know what direction to head from there. I did the test and got the correct readings. I took a chance and got a third relay and now they work. I don't know what happened with the 2 new I got and the original relay. What are the chances of a bad switch causing the relays to go bad?
Neil86 Posted May 10, 2014 #14 Posted May 10, 2014 I think you still want to find out why this was affecting your fuel pump.....
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