Upper fairing fasteners

[Geobob]

This looks to be the most active forum these days for the old venture so let me start with my most immediate issue ( I have several). I am sort of restoring my beloved 1988 venture royal.

 

I just spent $2000 dollars on plastic repair and painting and it all looks great. I was fitting up the upper fairing panels and inner panels and was thinking they all should have shoulder washers. I cannot see in the parts book or manual if this is the case. I know that my panels did not line up well and had many cracks around the fastening points. I'm thinking this was from hard mounting the parts to the frame.

 

If anyone can tell me for sure if the three of four mounting points should all have some play or not.

 

Needless to say, I have had the panels off several times and there have been several crashes so simple going with how they were attached is not realistic.

 

My better judgment tells me to come up with some soft attachment method regardless of how it was originally done just to be safe. I am leaning towards the rubber grommet with the inner bushing maybe. It really depends on what is available and from where.

 

The inner fairing panels appear to have had shoulder washers which allowed for some play. I went to Napa today and the guy actually found something similar and filed them out for me. Now that was service. They may be a bit long but I think the hard mounting lead to forced alignment that eventually led to crack panels.

 

The back mounting point with the spring on it has a shoulder washer. The front upper point looks like it does not but maybe it should. The front lower mounting point looks like the hole could fit a should washer but I don't have one (gee how could that be). The last mounting point looks like it under the headlight on the cross member (I think mine is installed upside down since it appears there is no way it is going to mount up the way it is).

 

If anyone is can help feel free to write or even call 717 578 1923. I have several other topics I need advice on. Like a clutch plate replacement job.

 

Thanks

Bob

Williamsport Pa

[dna9656]

Clutch is EASY. Get the Yamaha manual for the torque numbers and search this web site in the tech library or www.venturers.org in their tech library. You'll have to join them to see it I think.

GET a gasket; the p/n for a 84 is 3JP-15451-01-00, check Boats.net.

I would replace the springs

Get some "Yamabond #4" to dress the gasket. I used regular automotive gasket goo and had no problems but the forum wisdom says Yamabond #4 I believe; available @ the local Yamaha dealer. To get the case screws loose you will need a screw driver that you hit with a hammer, it has a twisting action when it's hit. I call it a "torque screwdriver" probably at a auto parts store. You want to use it when you tighten the case too. Read the instructions.

Having the bike on the side stand negates havening to drain the oil because the oil will flow over to the other side of the bike.

There are several screws/bolts to remove once the case is off, clutch springs 6 I think.

PAY ATTENTION to how the disks are arranged! There are notches on the outside of the disk that need to be lined up a certain way. There are links to videos posted on the forum sites that show Yamaha training films that explain this. You don't HAVE to change the INNER disks that are located BEHIND a VERY this wire (I'm told; I changed mine.) That wire is not SUPPOSED to be reused. but most reuse it. My dealer didn't have one in stock even though it's used on MANY Yamaha engines; go figure.

The 2 forums (this and www.venturers.org) are worth the dues, they really are so join up and solutions to all your issues can be found.

[Peder_y2k]

Regarding fairing fastners, when in doubt, use a metal bushing. One can make these from a new steel brake line cut to length. the purpose of the bushing being to prevent crushing the plastic, and still have enough contact to snug the connection and prevent squeaks. I have used wide head phillips screws (instead of flanged) when replacements were called for, as these were the only ones found at my local ACE Hardware. I don't think lock washers are necessary.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Edited May 7, 2014 by Peder_y2k
spelling

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

I would definitely avoid lock washers on the plastics. If your feeling is it should have a washer then put one on because you are most likely correct. The option would be like a nylon washer behind the screw head and can also go between plastic and mounting point to help stop some of the squeaks.

 

[Geobob]

Regarding fairing fastners, when in doubt, use a metal bushing. One can make these from a new steel brake line cut to length. the purpose of the bushing being to prevent crushing the plastic, and still have enough contact to snug the connection and prevent squeaks. I have used wide head phillips screws (instead of flanged) when replacements were called for, as these were the only ones found at my local ACE Hardware. I don't think lock washers are necessary.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

This is an interesting idea. I have a break line kit. I will have to try making some up. So far remounting the fairing has been very difficult since I'm sure the fairing frame is not right. I'm close but would love to have a straight fairing frame at this point. But like so much else, no longer available from Yamaha.

[Jayceesfolly]

Frames are available from EBay, usually at a reasonable cost. Also Pinwall may carry the frame parts. They are also found on Ebay.

 

I bought a set for my 89 VR on Ebay and worked well. Everything lined up well.

 

Jim