Blown fuse

[Roadhand]

I had to replace my headlight fuse this evening. went ot start it for a little ride just after dark and no ligghts.

No headlight, tail light, no passing lamp lights.

I replaced the 15amp fuse and all seems well.

I did "upgrade" my headlight several weeks ago and had no problem until today.

Anyone else have any thoughts?

I sure don't want to take off and have it go out in the middle of a night time ride. I will carry a couple of extra fuses but now I am going to worry until time passes some.

[V7Goose]

Don't know if this applies to you, but several folks who have added driving lights have had the wires pinched in the steering stops. I also had a wire that I ran down my front brake line rub through on one of the guides and short out. That last one was very frustrating since I could not find the problem. I replaced fuse and all was well for a while, then 'pop'. Turned out the short only hit the brace when the forks compressed a fair bit, so it was tough to find the problem since you cannot see when the lights go out during the day.

Goose

[BuddyRich]

Just replacing the headlight bulb should not blow the fuse or cause it to blow later. I would be looking for chafing wires or something shorted. Try turning it on and turn the handlebars lock to lock. See if it blows the fuse then. Do you have the passing lamps also, do they run off the headlamp circuit. If they do and you went to a 130 watt aftermarket headlight that may overload the circuit.

[Roadhand]

The dealer installed the passing lamps so I believe they do run off the headlight circut as well. (just a guess on my part) but I will check with the Yamaha dealer and see how they wired them.

I would have thought if the upgraded headlight bulb was drawing too much it would have blowen the fuse within a couple of days (hours)

It has been 4 or 5 hundred miles since I changed it.

Also since it is an 07, I was hoping I would not have too many problem but this is one I do need to fix as soon as possible.

[BuddyRich]

Yea, losing all the lights can be a lot of fun at 70 in the dark

[Albino Rhino]

The dealer installed the passing lamps so I believe they do run off the headlight circut as well. (just a guess on my part) but I will check with the Yamaha dealer and see how they wired them.

For what it may be worth: I installed my passing lamps per the provided instructions, and after the 2nd blown fuse, located the weak point. The provided wiring, unless added protection is applied where the wires enter the slot of the turn signal / lamp assemby, will chafe until the insulation wears through. My fix was to drill out the slot a bit to accomdate the extra thickness of the heat shrink tubing I put on the wires where they pass through the slot. I also put the passing lamps on their own circuit via relay to the battery.

[Guest r-retzke]

Mike,

 

My 2000 Millenium just lost its driving lights. The only thing I know about the circuit is that they operate off the headlight switch.

 

If you still have your wiring instructions and can scan them, please upload the image to this thread for those of us trying to figure our problems out. If you can't, please tell me what you recall about fuse location, relay (if any), where the connections to the headlight circuit are located, etc.

 

Thank you, Rog in NH

[SaltyDawg]

For what it may be worth: I installed my passing lamps per the provided instructions, and after the 2nd blown fuse, located the weak point. The provided wiring, unless added protection is applied where the wires enter the slot of the turn signal / lamp assemby, will chafe until the insulation wears through. My fix was to drill out the slot a bit to accomdate the extra thickness of the heat shrink tubing I put on the wires where they pass through the slot. I also put the passing lamps on their own circuit via relay to the battery.

 

Chances are good this is where you problem is.

 

My advice is to run a separate fused link from the battery to power the passing lamps. Run it through a relay that is powered off the aux wiring for the outlet on the left side of the faring. I put a lighted switch in to have the ability to shut the passing lights off if just listening to the radio.

 

I don't know why Yamaha wants you to hook into the headlight circuit. If that fuse blows as you have already found out you have NO LIGHTS AT ALL. At least with a dedicated fused link and a relay running off the aux circuit you will still have passing lights if the headlight fuse blows.

[Marcarl]

Remember: Just because the dealer did it, does not mean it's perfect, experience has taught me that.

[Semi-retired]

I had to replace my headlight fuse this evening. went ot start it for a little ride just after dark and no ligghts.

No headlight, tail light, no passing lamp lights.

I replaced the 15amp fuse and all seems well.

I did "upgrade" my headlight several weeks ago and had no problem until today.

Anyone else have any thoughts?

I sure don't want to take off and have it go out in the middle of a night time ride. I will carry a couple of extra fuses but now I am going to worry until time passes some.

 

Also under the heading "I sure don't want to......"......is TAKE THE FAIRING OFF AGAIN, JUST TO CHANGE A FUSE!

 

Passing lights wouldn't light so I uncorked the fairing to find a blown line-fuse coming from my passing light switch. This is a push-push button mounted on the "drive's side" of the left side of the fairing (down below my clutch lever).

 

Questions:

1. Is this combination access/cig lighter and push-push passing light switch combo a factory stock item? (I bought the bike used)....or is it a common aftermarket solution?

 

2. Any thoughts on whether the (somewhat) recently upgraded bulbs may have overloaded that fuse? (fuse is 10A....new lamps are quartz)

 

3. Any tips on outboarding that fuse holder in case it blows again?

 

4. Thoughts on any other "spots" that might have caused the problem? (I lubricated that push-push with WD40 last year and that "cured" the "no lights" problem then. Is it possible I CAUSED the no-lights problem NOW?)

 

Thanks for any guidance, guys.

 

Mike

[SaltyDawg]

Also under the heading "I sure don't want to......"......is TAKE THE FAIRING OFF AGAIN, JUST TO CHANGE A FUSE!

 

Passing lights wouldn't light so I uncorked the fairing to find a blown line-fuse coming from my passing light switch. This is a push-push button mounted on the "drive's side" of the left side of the fairing (down below my clutch lever).

 

Questions:

1. Is this combination access/cig lighter and push-push passing light switch combo a factory stock item? (I bought the bike used)....or is it a common aftermarket solution?

There should be a ACCESS connector on the left faring under the handle bar. That is stock. If it has the cig lighter in it, it's aftermarket.

 

2. Any thoughts on whether the (somewhat) recently upgraded bulbs may have overloaded that fuse? (fuse is 10A....new lamps are quartz)

It would depend on whether or not you used the same watt bulbs. If you went from 35W to 55 W then yes that caused the fuse to blow. If they are 35W then it could just have been time for the fuse to blow, or there could be a short in the circuit

 

3. Any tips on outboarding that fuse holder in case it blows again?

I would run the main wire directly off the battery with the fuse holder under the seat. Run the main power wire through an automotive relay that is controlled off a switched power source under the fairing.

 

4. Thoughts on any other "spots" that might have caused the problem? (I lubricated that push-push with WD40 last year and that "cured" the "no lights" problem then. Is it possible I CAUSED the no-lights problem NOW?)

 

Thanks for any guidance, guys.

 

Mike

 

WD 40 on electrical parts should always be followed by electronic parts cleaner to remove the residue. WD40 will short things out. It might displace water but it will also conduct electricity. But in answer to your question, I highly doubt using WD40 last year would cause this problem now. The switch could be shorting to ground though.

[GeorgeS]

First thing, is to carefully Inspect, every Inch of new wireing that was added.

 

Sometimes a Fuse will just " blow " for no apparent reason. Rare occurence, but it does happen.

[Semi-retired]

There should be a ACCESS connector on the left faring under the handle bar. That is stock. If it has the cig lighter in it, it's aftermarket.

 

It would depend on whether or not you used the same watt bulbs. If you went from 35W to 55 W then yes that caused the fuse to blow. If they are 35W then it could just have been time for the fuse to blow, or there could be a short in the circuit

 

I would run the main wire directly off the battery with the fuse holder under the seat. Run the main power wire through an automotive relay that is controlled off a switched power source under the fairing.

 

WD 40 on electrical parts should always be followed by electronic parts cleaner to remove the residue. WD40 will short things out. It might displace water but it will also conduct electricity. But in answer to your question, I highly doubt using WD40 last year would cause this problem now. The switch could be shorting to ground though.

 

Thanks, Wayne.

Yeah, I misspoke on the cig lighter....it's just the stock accessory outlet......and the little push-switch was what the previous owner installed to trigger the pass lights. I'll blow that sucker out with some alcohol and let her dry well before sticking the new 10w in. I might also consider your rewiring suggestion and make sure the fuse container is tucked in behind the headlight or someplace where I can get at it without taking the front half off the bike!!

 

I'll also pull a bulb and see if the replacements WERE 50's or somethin. They were a gift from Squidley, so I didn't inspect them too hard at the time! . If they ARE the big mothers....can I just pop in a 15w....or is that gonna fry everything?

 

And, George, I WILL follow those wires around; one seems to take a treacherou kinda route, sorta wrapped around the headlight adjustment knob......which MAY not be a good thing.

[wes0778]

I had to replace my headlight fuse this evening. went ot start it for a little ride just after dark and no ligghts.

No headlight, tail light, no passing lamp lights.

I replaced the 15amp fuse and all seems well.

I did "upgrade" my headlight several weeks ago and had no problem until today.

Anyone else have any thoughts?

I sure don't want to take off and have it go out in the middle of a night time ride. I will carry a couple of extra fuses but now I am going to worry until time passes some.

 

Jim,

This may be completely off the wall, but is there room in the fuse holder to plug in a 15A circuit breaker? AutoZone has some that have "spade" terminals spaced just right to replace a fuse. The terminals are long with score marks on them so you can break them off to the length you need. At least if something shorts out, intermittently the lights will try to come back on, so you don't take the chance of having all your lights go out :yikes: completely just at the worst possible time.

[Semi-retired]

Jim,

This may be completely off the wall, but is there room in the fuse holder to plug in a 15A circuit breaker? AutoZone has some that have "spade" terminals spaced just right to replace a fuse. The terminals are long with score marks on them so you can break them off to the length you need. At least if something shorts out, intermittently the lights will try to come back on, so you don't take the chance of having all your lights go out :yikes: completely just at the worst possible time.

 

Hi Walter.

 

Jim's original post was put up over two years ago....I just picked up on it as a result of a "search" for MY problem....and to prove to readers that I'd at least TRIED to do the research to solve my dilemma before "crying for help". (Guessing Jim's solved his problem by now....or at least I HOPE he has!) Sorry if I caused any confusion there.

 

I'm just trying to find out if there is an even larger bank of "known problems and solutions" to draw on to avoid having to split the fairing in the event of a simple fuse-blow.

 

Your fuse holder suggestion gives me something to consider. Thanks, buddy!

[SaltyDawg]

Thanks, Wayne.

Yeah, I misspoke on the cig lighter....it's just the stock accessory outlet......and the little push-switch was what the previous owner installed to trigger the pass lights. I'll blow that sucker out with some alcohol and let her dry well before sticking the new 10w in. I might also consider your rewiring suggestion and make sure the fuse container is tucked in behind the headlight or someplace where I can get at it without taking the front half off the bike!!

 

I'll also pull a bulb and see if the replacements WERE 50's or somethin. They were a gift from Squidley, so I didn't inspect them too hard at the time! . If they ARE the big mothers....can I just pop in a 15w....or is that gonna fry everything?

 

And, George, I WILL follow those wires around; one seems to take a treacherou kinda route, sorta wrapped around the headlight adjustment knob......which MAY not be a good thing.

 

Yeah a 15 amp fuse shouldn't cause any problems and that will cover the bulbs if they are 55W.

[Semi-retired]

Yeah a 15 amp fuse shouldn't cause any problems and that will cover the bulbs if they are 55W.

 

Thanks, Wayne.

 

I submerged that little switch in rubbing alcohol......blew the sucker with a small tornado...let it dry.....tucked a new 10W fuse into the line, and whaddayaknow.....LIGHTS!

 

I DID take one of the lamps out, and they are marked as 35W......so maybe it WAS just time for the old fuse to blow....or maybe there WAS a little short somewhere.

 

But, if you think putting a 15W fuse in won't risk the entire harness going up in smoke if my symptoms repeat.....maybe I will just pop in a 15W in place of the old 10W, just to be sure.

 

Ya figure that's OK?

[V7Goose]

Putting in a larger fuse in an existing circuit originally designed for a smaller fuse is perhaps one of the least intelligent things anyone can do around electricity!

 

If you know for a fact the size and length of all wires in the circuit, from the power source through the switches, to the load, and to ground, and you properly calculate the maximum safe amperage those wires can handle, then, and only then, you might consider going to a larger fuse that does not exceed the calculated max load for those wires (actually just for the smallest wire or component - that is where the risk is).

 

But if you put a larger fuse in an existing circuit where the load is consuming more current than the original design allows (hence your original blown fuse problem), here is what will happen: When you turn on the load for any length of time, the current being 'sucked' through the original wires will generate more heat than those wires can tolerate, melting the insulation and burning anything else that touches them. The larger fuse you put in will NOT blow under any circumstances before those wires burn up and finally short to ground somewhere in the circuit past where the fuse is installed. Of course, this may never happen since the short caused by the burning wires my happen between the source voltage and the fuse, virtually guaranteeing a full blown fire. That is just a worst case scenario, of course, but it DOES happen. Don't risk it!

Goose

[Semi-retired]

Putting in a larger fuse in an existing circuit originally designed for a smaller fuse is perhaps one of the least intelligent things anyone can do around electricity!

Goose

 

 

I KNEW someone was gonna say that.

 

Crap! Here goes the fairing off again.

 

Oh, and Kent, thanks for saying "least intelligent"......instead of "idiotic". :-)

 

All that being said and not said.......there must be three thousand guys out there with passing lights on their Ventures: anybody know what they've got in terms of FUSE SIZE......assuming, of course, you've got 35Watt lamps.......AND that the lamps are the only load on the line?

 

Thanks, guys.

Edited June 9, 2009 by Semi-retired

[V7Goose]

I KNEW someone was gonna say that.

 

Crap! Here goes the fairing off again.

 

Thank god I only put the windshield screws on and not all the "back" ones, too.

 

Speaking of which, on the windshield screws, I think there are FOUR that HAVE plastic washers.....and TWO that have NO washer: Anybody know/remember which ones go where......and why? No two of the holes look like obvious "no-washer" holes!!

 

Thanks, guys.

None of the screws that secure the windshield directly have plastic washers, they are all metal washers. The screws that are inserted from the back to hold the fairing together all have plastic washers on them. That would be a total of eight screws with plastic washers.

Goose

[Semi-retired]

None of the screws that secure the windshield directly have plastic washers, they are all metal washers. The screws that are inserted from the back to hold the fairing together all have plastic washers on them. That would be a total of eight screws with plastic washers.

Goose

 

Thanks, buddy.

 

I'm still finding all kinds of little gems like this......"features" let's say....at no extra charge, from the previous owner!

 

Mike

[davecb]

Why not take it to the dealer and have them fix it???

[SaltyDawg]

Just to clarify things, I said that a 15A fuse will cover the bulbs if they are in fact 55W. I would never recommend putting a larger fuse in to troubleshoot a shorted wire.

 

With that being said, the Yamaha light bar circuit WILL handle a 15A fuse and the 55W bulbs. Many, many people have upgraded to 55W H3 bulbs.

[Semi-retired]

Just to clarify things, I said that a 15A fuse will cover the bulbs if they are in fact 55W. I would never recommend putting a larger fuse in to troubleshoot a shorted wire.

 

With that being said, the Yamaha light bar circuit WILL handle a 15A fuse and the 55W bulbs. Many, many people have upgraded to 55W H3 bulbs.

 

Just realized I had never put an end to this tale of woe!

 

Turns out........after much agonizing about fuse size and possible other sources of the problem........that after much eyeballing around the headlight area, it appears the person who installed the passing lamps did a poor job of routing the wiring.

 

I happened to see two red wires, one with some serious frying on it, running right through the area where the steering stops on the lower triple clamp come banging up against the lugs on the frame when the bars are turned to full-lock position (as in when you are locking the steering head against possible theft.)

 

Alls well that ends well.....with just a little bit of creative wire re-routing.

 

Cheers,

Mike