Packing rear wheel bearings and fingers

[camos]

Got the rear wheel off and replaced the tire. Now I'm trying to sort out how to go about repacking the bearings and drive fingers. The left bearing which I think is the needle bearing one feels a bit rough and the right one feels good. Read in the tech library that a needle fitting on a grease gun can be used to inject grease into the left bearing. Is there a better way to do this? Seems replacing the bearings is quite difficult and is apparently quite often not necessary.

 

Other than saying they should be greased every tire change I have not found any info on these drive fingers. Looking at the wheel it appears the 6 Allan bolts on the rotor side are what keeps the fingers in place. So by removing those bolts, the fingers can be removed from the left side. Is that right?

 

If Honda Moly-60 is not available here I read JET-LUBE MP-50, available from Acklands, is quite good.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Clive the only way I have ever packed bearings is to put a scoop of bearing grease in the palm of my left hand and worked the grease into the bearings pushing and rubbing the bearing in my right fingers.

 

I used the Moly 50 from from JB auto beside acklands on my 86 splines.

[camos]

I'm assuming the needle bearings can be accessed by removing the cir-clip and seal? As you did not mention it, I guess you did not service the drive fingers when you did the bearings.

[Stealthblade]

The hub pins are held on the spline by a snap ring.

Good idea to take that apart and look at them, they just might look like this, which is bad.

 

Polish em up with some emery cloth and scotch-brite pads. Also a good idea to clean out the holes they go into.

Grease the pins, slide em up and down in their holes a couple times to make sure there's grease in there too.

[RedRider]

Use Moly60 (or equivalent) on the pins and splines. Use standard lithium based wheel bearing grease for the wheel bearings - needle, ball, or tapered.

 

RR

[buddy]

Save yourself a headache and replace the wheel brgs! The needle brg is the weak link if it's rough in turning it's already toast !

When you go to remove this needle brg you see it has a lip on the backside making it pain to knock out once you get it out save yourself a headache for next time while you have the brg out make two small notches across from each other in the lip so next time around you can use a small punch or straight screw driver to knock out the brg

[RedRider]

Save yourself a headache and replace the wheel brgs! The needle brg is the weak link if it's rough in turning it's already toast !

When you go to remove this needle brg you see it has a lip on the backside making it pain to knock out once you get it out save yourself a headache for next time while you have the brg out make two small notches across from each other in the lip so next time around you can use a small punch or straight screw driver to knock out the brg

 

Nice call on adding the notches. Wish I would have done that with my steering neck bearings when I replaced them.

 

RR

[camos]

The hub pins are held on the spline by a snap ring.

Good idea to take that apart and look at them, they just might look like this, which is bad.

 

Polish em up with some emery cloth and scotch-brite pads. Also a good idea to clean out the holes they go into.

Grease the pins, slide em up and down in their holes a couple times to make sure there's grease in there too.

Super, that was the info I was after.

 

Saves me the effort of taking the rotor bolts out just to find they don't go through to the pins.

[camos]

Save yourself a headache and replace the wheel brgs! The needle brg is the weak link if it's rough in turning it's already toast !

When you go to remove this needle brg you see it has a lip on the backside making it pain to knock out once you get it out save yourself a headache for next time while you have the brg out make two small notches across from each other in the lip so next time around you can use a small punch or straight screw driver to knock out the brg

Thanks for the advice. Not sure yet if I will follow it this time around as I want to get the Venture on the road as soon a possible. If the bearings don't look bad I'm thinking at this point that I will probably just get the bearing number and order one in so I will be ready for when it does go bad.

[Stealthblade]

Yep, looks like this

 

I got a 2-pronged barbecue grill cleaner, looks like a "Y". Bent one of the prongs out of the way and used that to clean the holes. Blow em out with air and grease and you're good to go.